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Golden Age Mini-Series

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
The clothes and the illustrations, like the two below, have an Esquire-in-its-heyday quality. I love the black and white, but would have been cool to see these in color as well.
View attachment 311800 View attachment 311801

I agree!

In one way, it's surprising to see an illustrator of this evident talent confined to producing an apparently inexpensive to produce grey tone brochure/pamphlet. The stock upon which it's printed looks flimsy, and likely wouldn't have supported color printing, which of itself would have added significantly to its cost, though I have little doubt the illustrator would have welcomed the opportunity to add it.

In deference to your fondness for the mode, in the next series we will move ahead a bit, a few decades, to the Son-of-Golden-Age for a brief visit. ;)
 

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
While technically a couple of decades post Golden Age, the U.S. style alternately known as Ivy League, Trad or by the acronym TNSIL is a direct descendent of the '30's & early '40's clothing. It was a pared down mid-century modernist, minimalist interpretation of earlier styles. A prime characteristic of this mode was known as the natural shoulder. This was a jacket shoulder with very slight padding which emphasized a sleek minimalist aesthetic in contrast to the drape blade shoulder of the Golden Age. (Though that too, when done in its original form also had very slight padding, but a more extended shoulder.)

In the U.S. various brands competed with each other to produce the most sublime interpretation of this characteristic. IMHO, it was a tie between the original Southwick maker, and tailoring produced by a gentleman for gentlemen, Norman Hilton. This is a different business from the current one carried on by his son, Nick. It was handmade clothing of the highest order and had as its motto, "Doing one thing well." And when this mode passed, so did the brand.


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While only a cad will kiss and tell,
Happenstance upon a time that’s passed,
Reveals a favorite winsome lass,
Flanderian once knew VERY well!
 
Last edited:
Messages
15,812
Location
New York City
⇧ That is an impressive set of pictures. The tailoring is stunningly well done. Also, as mentioned in the text a few times, everything is well proportioned.

Those two things, IMHO, is what is really off in men's clothes today: the modern "skinny" clothes are not proportioned thoughtfully to the human body and, often, they are poorly tailored, even the expensively made ones that are worn by famous personalities.

Plus, it's just a personal preference, but those are about the best looking natural shoulders I've ever seen.

Thank you for posting these pics.
 

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
⇧ That is an impressive set of pictures. The tailoring is stunningly well done. Also, as mentioned in the text a few times, everything is well proportioned.

Those two things, IMHO, is what is really off in men's clothes today: the modern "skinny" clothes are not proportioned thoughtfully to the human body and, often, they are poorly tailored, even the expensively made ones that are worn by famous personalities.

Plus, it's just a personal preference, but those are about the best looking natural shoulders I've ever seen.

Thank you for posting these pics.

You, sir, are very welcome!

Agree with your remarks concerning many celebrities. Seems poorly fitted and tailored clothing is fashionable. :(
 
Messages
15,812
Location
New York City
⇧ Those are fantastic. I'd guess, like you, early '50s. I'm comfortable saying I've never owned and will never own a white tie, but it works for the guy in the bottom right of the bottom pic.
 

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
This next series is evidently Italian. There are some differences in labeling and mode among them, but they look to have come from a common illustrator, though they may be inclusive of different catalogs.

Part 1 of 2:

View attachment 313362

As a point of coincidence, Korean tailor B&Tailor made a 3 piece of very similar cloth about four years ago. I thought it rather snazzy, whereas most were confounded by its vintage character.

Still think it rather snazzy! :D


B&TBlackSuit03.jpg




B&TBlackSuit01.jpg
 
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