Got blocked by Simmons Bilt Instagram because my comment

[ton312]

I really like that brown trucker. Looks like a perfect fall jacket. As much as I'm dying to get back into my leather stuff there's a real gap in my wardrobe for something like this and I like it so much more than the denim counterparts. Plus, in a small way, it points to Logans jacket so that all but seals the deal for me. I'm all in on that one. I'll be bummed if it doesn't fund.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I think the one they have now is listed @13.5oz. I'm new to the game but I suspect that's a midweight fabric. Will feel like a feather next to my leather stuff.

Yeah that's considered a lighter medium weight. My CSF jacket I just posted is barely any heavier. The Gustin ones look like they weigh less for some reason.

I have the same gap, but I have an olive canvas denim-style jacket on order. Hopefully I get it soon.

 

[ButteMT61]

MIne's the waxed one. I will say that the wax makes that mofo very hot. I've even worn it to movie theaters where it's generally over-air conditioned and sweat in it. Waxed canvas is really limiting IMHO - even more than leather. But it's a perfect weight - comparing to my son's LEVI's and some others while in UK last fall...

 

[Woodyear]

I'm curious about Levis' 501ct (Custom Taper).

These are literally all I wear, besides a single pair of 511's which my girlfriend has actually "custom tapered" for me and 512s. The 501ct are generally my perfect jeans, slim through the leg, tapered at the leg opening to about 13" and a normal rise, not low like the 511s. Unfortunately though the fit is all over the place from year to year and even wash to wash, as is the usual for Levi's so it's kinda luck of the draw. In either case I completely overhauled my jeans drawer w the 501ct in black, light blue, dark blue, white and grey and ditched most of my 511 collection besides the one pair my girlfriend tapered for me. I think you won't regret them unless you expect them to fit like regular 501s which they absolutely don't.

 

[Sloan1874]

Beyond me why anyone wants heavily tapered jeans, but there you go. One thing I've discovered about Gustin is that they don't seem to have any real re-sale value.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I think the one they have now is listed @13.5oz. I'm new to the game but I suspect that's a midweight fabric. Will feel like a feather next to my leather stuff.

No, that's heavy weight. 6 to 7oz and there abouts is medium in waxed cotton. They are heavy and don't breathe are oily and feel funny on. I like my waxed cotton 3/4 length but I never wear my trucker. Maybe this year.

 

[ton312]

No, that's heavy weight. 6 to 7oz and there abouts is medium in waxed cotton. They are heavy and don't breathe are oily and feel funny on. I like my waxed cotton 3/4 length but I never wear my trucker. Maybe this year.

The only experience I have w/waxed cloth was a Schott jacket. I actually bought a bar of wax and added more to it as it came with very little and after a month or so seemed to wear off or just become absorbed by the fabric. It was a wool lined jacket and was very warm. I remember now that it did not breath at all and even in the winter I wore it open.

 

[Edward]

It's not just the cosmetic part, it's also about the machines that the denim is produced on. The selvedge gives some snob factor, but what really makes a difference is the texture, feel, etc of the fabric that is produced on older machines that cannot really be done on modern machines. Technically, the fabric is just as good, but their are subtleties that older machines make that make that fabric more interesting or desirable.

If you're really into denim (like I am) it makes a difference. Of course, if you aren't, then it doesn't matter at all, really. A lot of fantastic duck and plain weave fabrics have been made on more modern machines with great results.

Yeah, I should have phrased that better - there are differences, but what I meant was that selvedge isn't in and of itself "better" than non-selvedge -just different.

 

[Sloan1874]

Aero are now doing 22oz Lee jeans. I wouldn't call 13oz heavy weight, tbh. Certainly not in the context of the specialist denim scene.

 

[technovox]

I really like that brown trucker. Looks like a perfect fall jacket. As much as I'm dying to get back into my leather stuff there's a real gap in my wardrobe for something like this and I like it so much more than the denim counterparts. Plus, in a small way, it points to Logans jacket so that all but seals the deal for me. I'm all in on that one. I'll be bummed if it doesn't fund.

I've had both the unlined and the lined waxed trucker in the earlier style. Very striking, and well made. But unfortunately for me, the arms were just a tad too short. If they would do a long version, I'd be all over it.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Yeah, I should have phrased that better - there are differences, but what I meant was that selvedge isn't in and of itself "better" than non-selvedge -just different.

Yes. Very true. The machines are more rare which adds desirability.

 

[Edward]

Yes. Very true. The machines are more rare which adds desirability.

It's definitely a gret marketing piece as well to be able to say that the machines are the same ones (in some cases the actual ones) used by Levis in the 40s and such. Reminds me of being in my early teens when a bunch of us got dog tags made up in the army surplus place in town, and it was a big deal that the machine they used was a genuine US army one that had been used to stamp tags for Nam. (That would have been in and around the era when all the big Nam pictures were a thing.)

 

[dudewuttheheck]

It's definitely a gret marketing piece as well to be able to say that the machines are the same ones (in some cases the actual ones) used by Levis in the 40s and such. Reminds me of being in my early teens when a bunch of us got dog tags made up in the army surplus place in town, and it was a big deal that the machine they used was a genuine US army one that had been used to stamp tags for Nam. (That would have been in and around the era when all the big Nam pictures were a thing.)

Actually, from what I know, most of the machines are old Japanese machines that had nothing to do with any American manufacturers. If you are talking about Cone Mills in NC, then yes they may still have some. I know that they still make the LVC denim for Levis.

 

[ButteMT61]

Aero are now doing 22oz Lee jeans. I wouldn't call 13oz heavy weight, tbh. Certainly not in the context of the specialist denim scene.

Honestly, anything under 18oz is light to me. Even the newest Gustin 17oz Japanese denim is a lot different than the 18s.
That's the line where things change...

 

[handymike]

Yeah, I have the 18s and they are pretty stiff.

 

[barnabus]

. More and more I just want simple, plain jeans without labels and a standard, straight cut. No treatments, wiskering, etc.
I can't afford to get all nuts about jeans tho. I've got more than enough problems with the jackets.

I know I'm late to pick up on this, but I have some Unbranded UB101s, which are exactly as you describe. Totally unadorned, utterly untreated. I bought 21oz, but they come in several flavours. The 101 is a "skinny" fit, which isn't actually skinny at all: just a slim, straight leg.

Maybe worth a look? They're selvedge, if that's what you're into, but not expensive for that.

 

[ton312]

I know I'm late to pick up on this, but I have some Unbranded UB101s, which are exactly as you describe. Totally unadorned, utterly untreated. I bought 21oz, but they come in several flavours. The 101 is a "skinny" fit, which isn't actually skinny at all: just a slim, straight leg.

Maybe worth a look? They're selvedge, if that's what you're into, but not expensive for that.

Thanks for the tip @barnabus
Picked up two pair of their chinos and the jeans look good too!

 

[tropicalbob]

Aero are now doing 22oz Lee jeans. I wouldn't call 13oz heavy weight, tbh. Certainly not in the context of the specialist denim scene.

I think that's right. Back in the 1960's and early '70's, before Levi's and other companies discovered the money to be made in cheaper materials, most jeans were in the 13 to 15 oz. weight as evidenced by Wrangler, who still produce jeans in a standard weight of 14.75 oz. Gustin has skewed this a bit, considering anything heavier than 13 oz. as being on the heavier side.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Honestly, anything under 18oz is light to me. Even the newest Gustin 17oz Japanese denim is a lot different than the 18s.
That's the line where things change...

I think everyone has a different threshold. For me, it has to be at least 21oz for me to think it's truly heavy, though I will also agree that the jump from 16 or 17 to 18 is also fairly significant.

Keep in mind, I used to wear jeans that were 27oz post soak... so I was a true masochist.

 

[Sloan1874]

I think everyone has a different threshold. For me, it has to be at least 21oz for me to think it's truly heavy, though I will also agree that the jump from 16 or 17 to 18 is also fairly significant.

Keep in mind, I used to wear jeans that were 27oz post soak... so I was a true masochist.

Bloody hell, did you use a pair of pliers to button them?