Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

Discussion in 'Hats' started by Hugh Beaumont, Jul 8, 2011.

  1. deadlyhandsome

    deadlyhandsome I'll Lock Up

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    In my defense, I really did think it was a joke. I wasn’t trying to offer offense. There are all kinds here but most of us are in to the golden age of hats and see some of the trendy hatters more as vandals. Some artificial distressing is liked by some here but to my taste some of the distressing is heavy handed. There’s room here for all hat lovers and I hope you feel welcome.

    Please don’t take offense where none was meant.


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  2. jlee562

    jlee562 I'll Lock Up

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    The Fedora Lounge is not meant to be the internet's clearinghouse for all things hat related. The original purpose of this website was to document and celebrate vintage hats. We are especially not a hatter's FAQ.

    Aside from straying from the aesthetic that is popular here, there's significant reason to doubt Fouquet is anything other than the face of a brand who plays hatter on Instagram.

    That having been said, hatters keep their cards close to their chest. But you are seeking information on luring. Start with resources like Scientific Hat Finishing and Renovating.
     
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  3. Julie Bourdages

    Julie Bourdages New in Town

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    I must say that being welcome with is this a joke totally confirmed my ignorance ( which I assume btw)
    But hey I sure do love hats, my clients base is much different than many as they newborns, im a photographer and a designer and the artist that i am is hungry to learn.

    just dont welcome me with a smart answer when I clearly have no clue hahaha!

    but really no hard feelings xo
     
  4. Julie Bourdages

    Julie Bourdages New in Town

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    that is very good to know, thanks!
     
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  5. splintercellsz

    splintercellsz I'll Lock Up

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    Welcome.

    I have seen the method used by various hatters, sadly, none are coming to mind (my memory is horrible with names). I believe it to be done to burn off the extra felt during finishing to achieve a better finish. If one has seen hair burn, it shrinks from the flame, so I assume doing this to a hat causes longer felt fibers to shrink up and become more uniform.

    I am not sure what would be used to do it. Something that is quick burning would probably be the best starting place. I suppose the hat is misted with the fluid and then set alight? I am not sure how 100% wool would fair to the process.
     
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  6. Julie Bourdages

    Julie Bourdages New in Town

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    is anything, you have been the nicest tonight XOXOX
     
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  7. splintercellsz

    splintercellsz I'll Lock Up

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    You should share some examples of your creations! I'm sure many of here would enjoy seeing what you are working on, and what you have made. The lounge is a treasure trove of hat information, from modern day to the 1920s and more, you can get lost in this place for hours. Sadly, many of the older threads have lost photos due to a photobucket issue a while back, but the text still remains! Again, welcome, and I hope you enjoy it here
     
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  8. Bamaboots

    Bamaboots I'll Lock Up

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    I've read of hatters "firing" hats as part of the finishing process, to help clean up wild hares, so to speak. Western hatters also do it to stiffen the felt. Shrinking and tightening the felt as was mentioned in an earlier post. Denatured alcohol misted upon the felt is the accelerant.
    @Yahoody, a member here makes western hats for himself and friends and he discusses firing his hats here.
    https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/making-a-western-hat-by-hand.92987/
     
  9. suitedcboy

    suitedcboy One Too Many

    I was under the impression that the burning was to do the loose fuzz removal and the fuel was denatured alcohol in the hat body stiffener mix, shellac and denatured alcohol is one way but there is likely a commercial product that is similar. When I have seen videos it looks like an alcohol flame as it is not readily seen. When it is done to get affectations like Fouquet does I'm not sure what the fuel is.
    I usually wear my jeans until they have holes or worn spots, I don't shoot them with a shotgun or take a razor to them. Same for my hats. If they look like they have been sweated in a lot and might stink they have and they do. For that matter my wrinkles are not an effect, I'm getting F'ing old.
     
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  10. jlee562

    jlee562 I'll Lock Up

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    Bob at Black Sheep is a practitioner, he posted this some years back:
    [​IMG]

    I believe @humanshoes has been doing it too?
     
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  11. humanshoes

    humanshoes Vendor

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    Hello Julie and welcome to the Lounge. In general, a light misting of 99% alcohol is used to "fire" a hat. Be sure to extinguish the flame as quickly as possible unless you're going for that burned look. Brushing and/or additional pouncing will be required afterwards. I don't work with wool felt so I can't speak to whether or not it work on those hats. I should also mention that it's always recommended that you don't burn down your hat shop in the process.
     
  12. humanshoes

    humanshoes Vendor

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    I do fire the occasional hat Jared. When I do, it's mostly on darker felts and mostly because it's just damn fun to set some something on fire.
     
  13. deadlyhandsome

    deadlyhandsome I'll Lock Up

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    There’s an 11 year old boy in every man.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
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  14. Mustang Mike's Hats

    Mustang Mike's Hats A-List Customer

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    Location:
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    I chuckled when I started reading through the thread. Firing is indeed a technique used to remove the long hairs from a hat body during the hat making process. Cody from Wellema has a video clip on his site showing him using the technique. When I interned at D Bar J hats some 20 years ago, Dave Johnson demonstrated the procedure for me.Wood grain alcohol was misted onto the hat crown and ingnited. After about 6 seconds, he used compressed air to extinguish the flame and the singed hair was brushed off. He then began the crown ironing process as the next step. When I witnessed it, I was shocked but I must admit, it DID seem to work.
     
  15. belfastboy

    belfastboy My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Yes, seeing the old post from Bob at BlackSheep ...if that is involved I want to start making hats!!!
     
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  16. BKM

    BKM New in Town

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    Years ago, I saw an old hatter "fire" a fur felt fedora. He used a sprayer and sprayed alcohol in a fine mist on the fedora, lit the hat that kept flame for about 5 seconds, and then put out the fire. It was a beautiful sight but also served a practical purpose. According to him, the fire tightened the fibers, burned off the loose hairs, and made for a better uniform finish. Note: he also used natural oils that he gently added afterwards to the felt. By the by, Julie, welcome to the Lounge. I don't post much, but I am a long time lurker, and I share your passion for hats and the craft of those that make them. In my time on the Lounge, I have learned a lot about the craft, lore, and history of hats - especially from the members that have responded to your inquiry.
     
  17. jlee562

    jlee562 I'll Lock Up

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    Well, my heather grey Black Sheep has what Bob calls "scorch" finish. I always assumed that involved fire, because, scorch....duh.

    Starting with the long hair felt:
    [​IMG]
    Ending up as:
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Daniele Tanto

    Daniele Tanto Call Me a Cab

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    2,783
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    At the Borsalino factory they do this procedure. Some hats are "dummies" to burn for those who do the tour to see the operations to make a hat, but the process is used for some felts. This is what our guide explained to us and the worker who put the procedure into practice told us that in some cases it is still used.
     
  19. humanshoes

    humanshoes Vendor

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    Adulting is hard work Brent. I let the boy come out to play as often as possible.
     
  20. humanshoes

    humanshoes Vendor

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    Location:
    Tennessee
    This has me wondering if perhaps we have some behind the scenes censorship going on here. I hope not. I'm fairly certain I originally typed "set some shit on fire". Sorry, but I've found the unfettered use of profanity to be an integral part of the hat maker's skill set.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2018

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