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Help! Quick opinion on Kreosote boots.

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16,548
Three-piece, black or grey, early deacdes 20th century - something 2024 style wouldn't look quite right imo. This sort of *slightly* slimmer, Edwardian vibe -

View attachment 588484

(Slimmer than 30s/40s, not modern 'skinny'.)

Something like these options from Darcy:

https://www.darcyclothing.com/apps/bundles/bundle/24438
https://www.darcyclothing.com/apps/bundles/bundle/24248
https://www.darcyclothing.com/apps/bundles/bundle/24441
https://www.darcyclothing.com/apps/bundles/bundle/24439


The History Bunker have some very nice looking, melton wool options - though I can't personally swear by these as I've not handled them.

https://thehistorybunker.co.uk/Peak...it-Arthur-Shelby-suit-Peaky-Blinders-overcoat

But without those ridiculous hats.
 

Bfd70

I'll Lock Up
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Oh, don't remind me. I wondered about that too. Seemed inappropriate to ask Gabbard "What happens to my money if you ..." lol.

All I have is faith I suppose.
But what if he’s all “my real passion is my music, i just make a pair of boots a week to support that.”

i dunno, maybe all this is out there already and he’s grinding hard….
Still, take $250 earnest money. That will keep tire kickers away.
 

red devil

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An honest 42 months wait time is certainly better than a dishonest shorter one... Is this maker generally on time?

It is weird to ask for full upfront payment but not unheard of in certain legitimate businesses.
 

Khilij

One of the Regulars
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156
Wow, you have a lot more patience than I do. 42 months is a long, long time.
 

livioli

Familiar Face
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An honest 42 months wait time is certainly better than a dishonest shorter one... Is this maker generally on time?

It is weird to ask for full upfront payment but not unheard of in certain legitimate businesses.
I hope he is. But given that he's an artisan, not a manufacturer, delays are probable.
 

Edward

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But without those ridiculous hats.

I liked Tommy's caps. Completely wrong for the period in the English setting, but that's another argument! The wardrobe otherwise was pretty good on the period front.

When it comes to jackets probably not, but I feel like boots are a safer bet in this regard.

The other way boots are safer is, well.... in my adult lifetime, just over three decades now, I've been fourteen inches smaller and close to ten inches bigger in the waist than I am now, but in all those years I've kept the same shoes size!
 

livioli

Familiar Face
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I liked Tommy's caps. Completely wrong for the period in the English setting, but that's another argument! The wardrobe otherwise was pretty good on the period front.



The other way boots are safer is, well.... in my adult lifetime, just over three decades now, I've been fourteen inches smaller and close to ten inches bigger in the waist than I am now, but in all those years I've kept the same shoes size!
Very true. Gabbard also mentioned that apparently, with age, your foot gets slightly wider because of the cartilage or something. He considers that when building the boots, especially since I'm rather young.
 

MickeyPunch

Familiar Face
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72
On teacore vs not: I’m not a fan of teacore leather jackets (unpopular opinion here I suppose), but I ordered by latest boots (from Jakkrabbits) in teacore shinki horsehide, my first teacore purchase. It’s a mix of “I don’t dislike teacore in boots” (esp. as I ordered them with a brown edge) and “if I don’t love it I can always make them black again much more easily than a jacket”.

However those won’t pair well with a suit… I’m probably more fashion forward than 99% in this forum (unsurprisingly as most of the items discussed here were designed 50+ years ago lol) but when it comes to formal events I’m… well, traditional I suppose, so I wouldn’t wear anything other than some black oxfords. And if they must be boots them some balmoral ones. Luckily I haven’t had to wear a suit in like 10 years, and even weddings are getting more and more casual.
 

Observe

One Too Many
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On teacore vs not: I’m not a fan of teacore leather jackets (unpopular opinion here I suppose), but I ordered by latest boots (from Jakkrabbits) in teacore shinki horsehide, my first teacore purchase. It’s a mix of “I don’t dislike teacore in boots” (esp. as I ordered them with a brown edge) and “if I don’t love it I can always make them black again much more easily than a jacket”.

However those won’t pair well with a suit… I’m probably more fashion forward than 99% in this forum (unsurprisingly as most of the items discussed here were designed 50+ years ago lol) but when it comes to formal events I’m… well, traditional I suppose, so I wouldn’t wear anything other than some black oxfords. And if they must be boots them some balmoral ones. Luckily I haven’t had to wear a suit in like 10 years, and even weddings are getting more and more casual.
I think you'll find many here dislike the quick aging exaggerated tea core effect. Not to be insulting but I think it's generally one of those things newbies obsess over but once you sink your teeth into the wide range of leathers out there it becomes less of a focus. There's more interesting things to think about and I've gone from everything having to be teacore to preferring the struck through dye look.
 

Edward

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I think you'll find many here dislike the quick aging exaggerated tea core effect. Not to be insulting but I think it's generally one of those things newbies obsess over but once you sink your teeth into the wide range of leathers out there it becomes less of a focus. There's more interesting things to think about and I've gone from everything having to be teacore to preferring the struck through dye look.

Even in these parts, fashions exist. Close to twenty years ago, it was all 'heavy horse and once-piece back or GTFO' in these parts.

Personally, I always found teacore to be popular with folks who wanted a vintage jacket rather than the vintage look. By which I mean if what you want is one of those cool, old 1940s jackets that you've handled in a vintage store, but can't find an original that works for you, teacore is a great way of replicating the look of one of those jackets, now some eighty odd years old. OTOH, if the aim is to have a 1940s period look all over, it doesn't work at all. It's why I never was much keen on it, in large part.

Course, tastes change as well. There was a time I wouldn't have been seen in brown leather, or an Irvin, or a bow tie..... or jeans much wider than my own ankle....
 

Aloysius

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Even in these parts, fashions exist. Close to twenty years ago, it was all 'heavy horse and once-piece back or GTFO' in these parts.

Personally, I always found teacore to be popular with folks who wanted a vintage jacket rather than the vintage look. By which I mean if what you want is one of those cool, old 1940s jackets that you've handled in a vintage store, but can't find an original that works for you, teacore is a great way of replicating the look of one of those jackets, now some eighty odd years old. OTOH, if the aim is to have a 1940s period look all over, it doesn't work at all. It's why I never was much keen on it, in large part.

Course, tastes change as well. There was a time I wouldn't have been seen in brown leather, or an Irvin, or a bow tie..... or jeans much wider than my own ankle....

It's kind of funny how the Japanese themselves came up with 'tea core' not as a term for fading but just to describe the color of certain older leathers.

Then, when the western workwear scene which was accustomed to buying fast-fading denim jumped on leather jackets from Japanese makers, they redefined it to mean fast-fading leathers.
 

cbez

One Too Many
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I think of 'true' tea core as aniline dye that wears away, but people also apply it with pigments over a different color base. That has more of a paint chipping off a car look that I don't like. That's not even getting into multiple layers of dyes. It basically means any wear showing a different color now.

1000019050.jpg
 

Aloysius

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I think of 'true' tea core as aniline dye that wears away, but people also apply it with pigments over a different color base. That has more of a paint chipping off a car look that I don't like. That's not even getting into multiple layers of dyes. It basically means any wear showing a different color now.

That isn't what the term means in Japan either. It was just a way of differentiating between leathers that are brown at the core (really 'tea core' is an incorrect translation, because it just means literally brown core) and those that are not.

I actually find jackets like the above pretty hideous; even my 80+ year old jackets have not worn away that much. But in any case the term just refers to the base color.
 

Edward

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That isn't what the term means in Japan either. It was just a way of differentiating between leathers that are brown at the core (really 'tea core' is an incorrect translation, because it just means literally brown core) and those that are not.

I actually find jackets like the above pretty hideous; even my 80+ year old jackets have not worn away that much. But in any case the term just refers to the base color.

I think some of them can look great when they get to the "antiqued brown" stage, but it's when they have that long stage of "black that looks badly worn off" that doesn't appeal so much. Years ago, I had an old black crosszip that clearly had a warm, brown undertone to the black which I liked, but that was very different to these jackets you see where half of the jacket, not just the 'high wear' spots, is a sort of coffee colour within a month of purchase...

I would, to be fair, be very tempted by the right jacket in that blue/black goat Aero did for Levis way back when.
 

livioli

Familiar Face
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97
Thanks, Edward for the lengthy response. He accepts refunds, as he doesn't start making the boots until 42 months later. He will also regularly check in with me regarding my weight changes, injuries etc. I have a long time to decide on what I want.

You mentioned the right suit. I'm thinking of a classic single-breasted black suit?

Correction. Gabbard does not accept refunds since, considering the amount of time and money that is involved in ordering the last.
 

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