Help With Custom Hat Order

Discussion in 'Hats' started by jcmjrt, May 29, 2011.

  1. danofarlington

    danofarlington My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    3,122
    Location:
    Arlington, Virginia
    Good one.
     
  2. jcmjrt

    jcmjrt New in Town

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    Location:
    SF Bay
    Well, I may or may not go to Mrs Dewson's but the yelp reviews are certainly entertaining.
     
  3. jcmjrt

    jcmjrt New in Town

    Messages:
    44
    Location:
    SF Bay
    I went to the hatguys in Oakland today. That was a lot of fun and the lady (Joyce) who waited on me was very nice and helpful. I ended up spending too much money but I walked out with two beautiful hats - a borsalino bellagio felt in an absolutely gorgeous eggplant color and a Biltmore diamond crease suede finish felt stingy brim in dark blue (says it's navy but it's not an almost black color, it's definitely blue). I now have a small collection of wonderful hats so I also purchased some slatwall and hat fixtures and will be putting up a good place in the bedroom to keep my hats available and ready for wear. I had a great time today. Thanks for the recommendation for that store; it was a good one. So I guess I may know more about what I would want in a custom hat but have now spent the money. Thank goodness, there's always another day with another opportunity for a hat. :)
     
  4. Sounds like you had fun on your hat shop visit. I think you will be well served by getting to know what you like before having a custom hat made. Enjoy the new hats.
     
  5. fmw

    fmw One Too Many

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    1,017
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    USA
    Good work!
     
  6. Seth Hawkins

    Seth Hawkins One of the Regulars

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    Deep in thought....

    Nice hat. What is it?
     
  7. EggHead

    EggHead Practically Family

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    San Francisco, CA
    It's great that you had fun there. But now, show us the hats!! and specs :)

     
  8. fmw

    fmw One Too Many

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    1,017
    Location:
    USA
    More important than what is "right" or "wrong" for your head shape is whether or not you like the hat on your head. Asking strangers on an internet forum isn't the best way to go. You could end up with what someone else likes rather than what you like. I like the idea of visiting a hat store. That's what I would do if there were any around here.
     
  9. ectopistesm

    ectopistesm New in Town

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    13
    Location:
    BRAZIL
    Help with a custom fedora.

    Hi, i´m from brazil, here we don’t have good hats brands and no one make custom hats, I want one bogart fedora (maltese falcon). I found this guy: Caliqo & Magill he is selling custom hats on ebay for 230 usd, hare furfelt. Someone know this guy? The price is good? Who you can recommend me? Remembering that must be a guy who sends to brazil and accept payapal.

    Thanks Guys.

    ps: 120 usd for a stetson downs is a good deal?
     
  10. DJH

    DJH I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,352
    Location:
    Ft Worth, TX
    You can see more on these guys at their website too.

    Personally, I don't see too much Bogart in that hat, I'd be more inclined to contact one of the custom hatmakers that are discussed around here and see what they can do for you.

    A couple that come to mind (that I believe would be in a similar, or lower price range to the Caliqo) are Northwest Hats and Falcon Park hats.

    Plenty more if you want to spend a little more.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2013
  11. The Wiser Hatter

    The Wiser Hatter I'll Lock Up

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    4,764
    Location:
    Louisville, Ky
    Your dealing with a wool hat going by David's website.

    Vintage Silhouettes by Art Fawcett
    Art can make you a Bogart hat for 275.00 us. An you will get a prefect fit.
     
  12. ectopistesm

    ectopistesm New in Town

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    BRAZIL
    Thanks, i sent an email to Art, Northwest Hats and Falcon Park....

    will wait for the answers, my problem is my location then i´m thinking in buying one good comercial fedora like stetson and order the custom when i travel to usa.
     
  13. Coastguard

    Coastguard New in Town

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Texas
    Help build my first custom hat.

    Hello,

    I ran across the place and it seems to be a very active and knowledgeable forum community regarding the beloved Fedora hat. I have never owned any hats other than the occasional ball cap. Every time me and the wife are out and she sees a fedora short brim hat she wants me to try it on b/c she likes the way they look on me. I was going to buy a what I thought was a nice one online but its tough b/c my head is so dang small... Hahaha... I'm 5'6" weigh 156 lbs and typically dress in jeans with chuck Taylor shoes and a V neck tee or untucked button down. I'm no hipster just and average athletic build 36 yr old military professional.

    It just so happens that one of my good childhood friends owns the oldest custom hand made hat company in Texas (Standard Hat Works) where the primarily make cowboy hats but can obviously make anything. So I talked to my buddy for a couple of weeks about making me one and he told me when I'm ready to head up there and he'd make me one.

    Yesterday I arrived at his shop and he had a bunch of fedora that he sells but they are manufactured elsewhere and he told me to pick out a style that I like and he will start from there. He said he wanted to make me a black one out of 100x Pure Beaver the same material that he uses on his higher end custom cowboy hats that he hand makes. He got my correct sizing down and started process. He said he wanted to make it fit me correctly and not look goofy tall or big. So he asked how i liked to wear the hat low high etc... (I think i like it best low just right above top of ears). I would like to wear this hat as much as possible b/c I've never had a cool hat so I want to get it right. I'm moving to Coos Bay OR with my job next wk and I know that's a low key kind of place. Me and the wife don't really go out much other than dinner and a movie once a wk.

    Questions:
    1) how tall should the hat be?

    2) brim length? We think we decided on a 2" does that sound right? Also I really like the back up and front down.

    3) top shape? Kinda torn between a tear shape with two dimples or a standard top crease with two dimples?

    4)band size and color?
     
  14. 1) Open crown = at least 5 1/2" but I'd go 5 3/4"
    2) Brim length = 2 1/2" but I'd go 2 5/8", 2" is basically stingy to me
    3) Tear drop or diamond crease, center dent is okay
    4) Band ribbon should be mid-ribbon, 9 to 12 ligne, matching color of the hat or a shade darker. Thinner is too casual, Wider is too dressy

    JMHO
     
  15. hatsRme

    hatsRme

    Messages:
    10,024
    Location:
    Boston area
    GT's right, of course. The only thing I might add, consider your face shape. There are several places on the net to see this aspect of making your decision. Retailers offer guidance, I just forget which ones post the info. You describe your overall size as not a large person, so generally speaking, it is possible to pull off a stingier brim and not look like Oliver Hardy (not that Ollie wasn't a good-looking chap...).

    Also JMHO
     
  16. Oh yeah, my first hat would NOT be a black one.
    I have a black western & a black fedora & they are my least worn hats.
    Granite or Dove grey if not Silverbelly or Natural undyed beaver.....as always JMHO
     
  17. casechopper

    casechopper My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,762
    Location:
    Northern NJ
    Considering the small size of your head and that you've mentioned you like stingy brims I'd have to go against the flow on this. With a small head size a 2 1/2" brim will look large. If you want a large brim this is great but it sounds like you're more fond of the stingier brims. GTdean and I share roughly the same head size (7 5/8+) and for us 2 1/2" doesn't look so big. My recommendations would be to up it to 2 1/8" from 2" as that will give you a bit more protection from the elements.
    On this forum tall straight crowns are popular but if you're looking for low key then a low tapered crown hat with a ~2" brim would be relatively inconspicuous. If I had a small head and wanted that style of hat I would order a cheap vintage ebay hat as you can find hats like that in small sizes for $20-$30 in good condition relatively easily. If I had a hatter making me a hat and it was going to be my only hat I'd try for something unique in the hat to make it my signature hat. Go for a detail that's different from what you can get factory made such as a tall crown, different ribbon treatment, crown shape, etc...
     
  18. johnnycanuck

    johnnycanuck Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,478
    Location:
    Alberta
    How tall? Most modern hats are quite short. If you want old school rules, measure the distance between your chin (mouth closed) to the middle of your eye. The shaped crown should be the same height. That’s what I go by and if you watch old moves/hat ads it seems to hold true.

    Brim length? Up to you. Good sun protection should be about 3”. But that’s a wide brim for most people. If you take the Stetson Whippet as a standard classic fedora shape, it has a 2 ½” brim. Anything less is usually a stingy brim. All have a distinct style and are good options. Do a search for “Akubra Squatter” to see a 3” brim. “Stetson Whippet (vintage)” for a 2 ½” brim and “Stetson Ivy League” for a 2” brim. That should give you an idea of what they look like.

    Top shape? I always thought of the Tear drop as an American style and the top crease as a European style. Again up to you and your preference.

    Band size and colour? Black would be the obvious choice but a nice midnight blue could give it a nice splash of colour without being to dramatic. Maybe a dark charcoal to lighten it up a little. As for size I have no advice. I would let the hat maker do what he wants. Maybe check out the different bow treatments and see what jumps out at you.

    My two cents worth.

    Johnny
     
  19. Coastguard

    Coastguard New in Town

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Texas
    Wow great responses guys. The hat will have to be black no matter what on this one as he has already began making it.. Later if I enjoy wearing these ill have a different color made. I had a 2 1/2" brim and he thought it looked great but I felt it was a little big. I think I'll go with 2" on that. I'm not really worried about protection from the elements b/c I have a house and can always go indoors.;) I'm more concerned with the style of the hat. It seems to me that there is a lot of correct traditional and modern hat shapes and I don't want to just throw something together that doesn't fit a type of standard. Although ill be proud to wear this hat regardless bc my good friend made it and I so what helped by watching him and getting him BBQ from Rudy's lol.

    BTW I'm noticing a trend with ppl not liking stingy hats on here, why's that?
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2013
  20. johnnycanuck

    johnnycanuck Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,478
    Location:
    Alberta
    What a great question!
    From what I can gather most people here got interested in the Fedora by means of “golden era moves” 1920-1960. Stingy brim hats started to make a big splash in the 1960’s about the same time there was the big decline in hats and past the golden era movies. I think most people here think it represents the end of the era.
    That’s what I think anyway.
    Johnny
     

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