Help With Custom Hat Order

Discussion in 'Hats' started by jcmjrt, May 29, 2011.

  1. Duper

    Duper Practically Family

    Messages:
    892
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    I have both the tawny fawn and the moonstone in the Fed IV standard grade felt. Both nice hats. Open crown and tough enough to last. Some folks take the liners out of their Akubras for the very hot humid days. If you like open crown, wide ribbon David Morgan sells a Sydney model which has more crown that the Stylemaster I believe. Light felt. Sometimes it is a little harder for the Sydney to hold a bash.
     
  2. 99999

    99999 New in Town

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Nebraska
    Ok, so either a fed IV or a Stylemaster. First off, is learning to bash the Fed a big deal? Any thoughts on pros and cons of these two considering I'll be spending time in the Serengeti?
     
  3. vintage68

    vintage68 Practically Family

    Messages:
    959
    Location:
    Nevada, The Redneck Riviera
    I’d like to get a custom Open Road made for my huge noggin. Specs such as crown height and brim width would need to be adjusted to look appropriate for my head size, so I need to go custom. I’d like to work with someone who has experience with this particular style style, so if you have a suggestion please let me know.

    Thanks!
     
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  4. hatsRme

    hatsRme

    Messages:
    10,024
    Location:
    Boston area
    T Jones, jonesy86 and deadlyhandsome like this.

  5. What size are you? Most hatters don’t have blocks taller than 6” so you’re likely to be limited on crown height; although, I think 6” is about perfect for me. The OR brim width varied over the years, but most of us think of a 2 3/4” wide brim. If you have a large head (I’m 61.2cm), and want a tall crown, you’ll be limited on how wide of a brim you can get out of a dress weight felt. I’m having that problem right now with four of the five dress weight beaver hat bodies I recently purchased. Western hat bodies have more felt, but they are much stiffer/firmer and not at all what I’d want for an OR. You might be able to get more out of the FEPSA felts, but the distributor (Alley Kat) doesn’t have any XL bodies currently in stock. There are other options too if you don’t insist on 100% beaver. If you like firm “western” felt I can say that the nutria bodies from Sunrise Hat Supply are nice (new stock should be arriving soon), and plenty large enough for any OR style hat.

    The OR isn’t a particularly hard style to make. I think any of the regular hatters favored here could do you right.
     
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  6. vintage68

    vintage68 Practically Family

    Messages:
    959
    Location:
    Nevada, The Redneck Riviera
    I’m a 7-7/8, but also long oval in shape so custom is the only way I’ve been able to find anything that fits.

    I had an Open Road made a while back but the dimensions weren’t adjusted for my size and the hat ended up looking ridiculous, like a Porkpie on my head.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2020
    M Hatman and deadlyhandsome like this.
  7. I have a 7-7/8 OR in 3X. It's not tagged as a LO however. I'm pretty sure I have a 7-3/4LO. It you have any interest I'll measure it up for you. Just send a PM.

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  8. 7 7/8...that’s going to eliminate some of the hatters I’ve used. What dimensions did you want on your hat?
     
  9. tropicalbob

    tropicalbob My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,956
    Location:
    miami, fl
    Just curious: why would the size eliminate most of the hatters? As I've mentioned elsewhere, I'm currently in line for a 7 7/8 with Mikael at Hufvud, and the size doesn't seem to be a problem. I don't think he's made a Stratoliner before (I'm still entertaining thoughts of an OR), but I'd think that any competent hatter with a good eye for proportion and symmetry should be able to handle it.
     
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  10. tropicalbob

    tropicalbob My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,956
    Location:
    miami, fl
    I just discussed this very topic with Mikael at Hufvud for a hat he's making me. Maybe he's someone you'd want to speak with. Bright guy.
     
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  11. Mikael does good work. I have no complaints with my hat.
     
  12. I don’t think it will necessarily eliminate “most” hatters, but surely “some.” Not every hatter has a size 8 block, let alone a long oval size 8 block and correct size flange. It’s the same reason why you can’t buy a Stetson in that size: just not that much demand...does Tom Gomez offer 7 7/8 yet?
     
  13. vintage68

    vintage68 Practically Family

    Messages:
    959
    Location:
    Nevada, The Redneck Riviera
    Thanks Hurricane, I sent you a PM. Deadlyhandsome, I'm not sure of the dimensions because as I said the one Open Road I did order was a disaster, but probably a wider brim for sure and maybe a taller crown.
     
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  14. If you want to to be in proportion to your head size, a factory hat will get your the same thing as your failed custom. Most factory hats use the same brim width for a 6 7/8 as they do for a 7 3/4 (that’s as large as most models come in).


    if you went with a 6-6 1/2 inch open crown and a 3 1/8 to 3 1/4 inch brim I’d think you’d be close. However, you’re definitely beyond what can be made with a Winchester dress weight beaver felt. I have a felt with Gannon right now that he’s trying to get a 6” crown and a 3” brim from, but he’s not sure if he can, and that’s from an unusually large dress weight hat body. Nothing wrong with going to a western weight as long as you know what it’s like and know what to expect. There are other felts available that might work out better for you. Sunrise is hoping to have their nutria felts restocked by July, but there’s no certainties.

    I think a call to Buckaroo Hatters would be your best bet as he knows what’s available and has most likely answered your exact questions before.
    Good luck,

    Brent
     
  15. T Jones

    T Jones I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,699
    Location:
    Central Ohio
    For a fedora I wouldn't want to go above or lower than an open crown height of 5 3/4 inches, my preference. A 5 3/4 inches open crown height is still pretty tall for a fedora and would make a nice crown height for an OR. If you're a larger person then I think a 2 3/4 brim width would work out nice. Here's a Resistol Western that I converted for myself to an ORish thin ribbon. I reblocked it on a straight sided dome block at 5 3/4 inches tall with a brim width of 2 3/4. The ribbon is 3/8 wide.
    If I may suggest another Hatter, try Rick Walker of the Phoenix Hat Company.
    Before:
    [​IMG]


    After:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2020

  16. Terry, if I understood him, he had a hat made with similar dimensions as you stated and found they looked too small in proportion to his head size. I understand as many “wide brim” fedoras look a bit stingy on my head. I’ve sold my Stratoliners for that reason. As a larger head guy, I’ve found that a full six inch crown is my favorite for fedoras and a bit more is better for westerns. I also prefer three inches or more of brim. Proportionally, a 6” open crown with a 3 to 3 1/8” brim looks the the same on me at size 7 5/8 as a 5 1/2 to 5 3/4” crown and 2 3/4” brim looks on you as a size 7 1/4.
     
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  17. T Jones

    T Jones I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,699
    Location:
    Central Ohio
    That's all probably true but I didn't see where he posted the dimensions of the hat he had made. In one post he said he wasn't sure of the dimensions. Most ORs I've seen have open crown heights of 5 1/5 inches tall with brim widths all over the place, I've seen most of them with widths at either 2 1/2 - 2 5/8 inches wide. I've seen quite a few at 2 3/4 wide too. But it's kind of hard to judge what would look good on him without seeing what he actually looks like. If he's a larger guy then some of the more typical OR dimensions would definitely look too small on him, especially if the crown was creased to a cattleman with the brim turned up. As you suggested I make the dimensions on my personal conversions a little larger to suit my height and body type, and face shape. Wonder if he has a picture of himself wearing the hat? Height, weight, face shape are all going to factor into what looks best on a person.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2020
    tropicalbob and deadlyhandsome like this.

  18. Good points. It’s also difficult to give suggestions without your own preferences coming through, and I definitely like more brim and crown. The most common OR brims that I’ve seen are 2 3/4” so I guess I just assumed that was close to what he had on his failed custom. I’m telling you, it’s tough having a large head...hate to even think about how tough it’d be at 7 7/8!
     
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  19. tropicalbob

    tropicalbob My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,956
    Location:
    miami, fl
    No, you're right, but I haven't had any problems with any of the custom hatters I've dealt with. One time Mike at Northwest didn't have any straw bodies in my size, but that was about it.
     
  20. tropicalbob

    tropicalbob My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,956
    Location:
    miami, fl
    I changed my custom order from a Stratoliner to an Open Road for the reason you give here. I have three hemp Stratoliners from Peters Bros. that, while I like the style, I've never liked as much as my Open Roads.
     
    deadlyhandsome likes this.

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