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How do you know when a leather collar is about to crack?

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16,464
I don't get suede either. Seems to be almost completely invulnerable to all the things that would usually harm leather. You can wash it like cotton, sweat doesn't do anything to it, you can't even condition it... Suede is weird.

But yeah, I dread that cracking collar business and usually I wipe & condition the collar AND the sleeve cuffs.

I think that the cracks on the back & the shoulders appear because that's where leather is under most stress. Not just by weather conditions as it's the first part of the jacket to get hit either by sun or rain, but the upper back panel is holding the entire weight of the jacket and thus gets constantly stretched. So I'm guessing the natural oils dry up sooner in that area.

As for the collar, must be sweat, yeah... And oils from our skin. Or something. But in any case, best to just wipe the collar regularly and treat it with conditioner from time to time.
 

zebedee

One Too Many
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Imperial liquor.

We need goat in more colours - doesn't seem to be a problem with goat leather. Cordovan or battered tan goat would be great.

I ask mainly because the Highwayman collar has darkened and looks a bit scaly (tho' it is pretty much like wear on surfaces that aren't near skin at all, ever), and I've just wiped down the collars of other Aeros that I haven't treated with a damp cloth and given them a quick buff with Renapur. I'm more often wearing jackets over shirts with collars these days as I had noticed an old, non-Aero jacket with some neck-damage...
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
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7,562
Location
Australia
Imperial liquor.

We need goat in more colours - doesn't seem to be a problem with goat leather. Cordovan or battered tan goat would be great.

I ask mainly because the Highwayman collar has darkened and looks a bit scaly (tho' it is pretty much like wear on surfaces that aren't near skin at all, ever), and I've just wiped down the collars of other Aeros that I haven't treated with a damp cloth and given them a quick buff with Renapur. I'm more often wearing jackets over shirts with collars these days as I had noticed an old, non-Aero jacket with some neck-damage...

I'm not sure that just a damp cloth is actually going to get sweat out of a jacket after hours of wear. If sweat was that easy to remove surely it wouldn't hurt the leather in the first place? And woudln't the damage be mainly done while you are wearing it? But these are just guesses.

I think I remember a guy on Club Obi Wan with a chrome tanned goat Indy and that collar wore out in a few years.

But really, cracked collars (on jackets under 40 years) are pretty rare all considered, it is probably not a big issue and when it happens, luck of the draw.
 

navetsea

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6,711
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East Java
you can saddle soap it, it is glycerin based soap, I guess since soap is probably alkaline it will neutralize the acid perhaps?, I only just bought saddle soap after that collar on one jacket looked dried , and also for my natural unprotected hide if ever get soiled badly.

so far only been tried once on the stained sleeve of my natural vegtan, the soap doesn't do much to clean the stain but it appear to leave some conditioner to the leather on that area (and a little bit of yellowness since the soap I got is yellow :() eventually I used hydrogen peroxide to bleach the stain, works reasonably well the stain got less and less visible over the course of several days just once application it bleaches slowly as I put the jacket in the sun. now it is almost not visible, yellowness of the saddle soap remains though haha, just adding character.
 

zebedee

One Too Many
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1,840
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Shanghai
I'm not sure that just a damp cloth is actually going to get sweat out of a jacket after hours of wear. If sweat was that easy to remove surely it wouldn't hurt the leather in the first place? And woudln't the damage be mainly done while you are wearing it? But these are just guesses.

I think I remember a guy on Club Obi Wan with a chrome tanned goat Indy and that collar wore out in a few years.

But really, cracked collars (on jackets under 40 years) are pretty rare all considered, it is probably not a big issue and when it happens, luck of the draw.

Yup, the used jacket I noticed it on was old and bought second-hand. I'm thinking that a once every 24 month quick swipe of Renapur will do it for the older Aeros.
 

navetsea

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darkening and become shiny is the first sign to me, before i thought it looked great earning " patina" so I leave it alone, now I will probably apply some conditioner if I see similar thing going on my other jacket's collar
 

zebedee

One Too Many
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1,840
Location
Shanghai
you can saddle soap it, it is glycerin based soap, I guess since soap is probably alkaline it will neutralize the acid perhaps?, I only just bought saddle soap after that collar on one jacket looked dried , and also for my natural unprotected hide if ever get soiled badly.

so far only been tried once on the stained sleeve of my natural vegtan, the soap doesn't do much to clean the stain but it appear to leave some conditioner to the leather on that area (and a little bit of yellowness since the soap I got is yellow :() eventually I used hydrogen peroxide to bleach the stain, works reasonably well the stain got less and less visible over the course of several days just once application it bleaches slowly as I put the jacket in the sun. now it is almost not visible, yellowness of the saddle soap remains though haha, just adding character.

This is too complicated for me to fully grok. I'm at a 'damp cloth and conditioner is as technical as I'm going to get' level of proficiency. Any more chemical than that and I'd get high-tech - a scarf. :)
 

Peacoat

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I have seen jacket collars almost dissolve from contact with some people's skin. Not just cracking but the entire surface abrading and coming off. I wonder if diet and/or alcohol affect the sweat which affects the leather or maybe it's acid versus alkaline skin. I also know some people who can't wear silver as it constantly breaks down and blackens on their skin. I wonder if they are the same people with cracked collars. :D
I haven't carried carbon steel pocketknives for years. I have to carry stainless steel. My skin must be acidic as any carbon steel pocketknife carried in my pocket will quickly develop rust. Because of this, I frequently clean and treat inside the collars of my leather jackets. No problems as yet.
 

navetsea

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East Java
This is too complicated for me to fully grok. I'm at a 'damp cloth and conditioner is as technical as I'm going to get' level of proficiency. Any more chemical than that and I'd get high-tech - a scarf. :)
saddle soap is easy to apply just wet cloth over it and lather it onto leather, will dry or get absorbed after awhile, and you can buff it a little.

hydrogen peroxide is sold as laundry bleach for more delicate fabrics or for colored clothes in several brands.
sometime also sold as hair dye mixture in several different concentrate 3% 6% 9% 12%
I mix it with a little water and use Qtip to apply on the stain and just leave it to take effect slowly, I also use it to clean stain on action figure body with no ill effect on the plastic, nowhere as aggressive as chlorine bleach, on action figure it probably take weeks and little by little the stain disappear, on my jacket I see the stain becomes less visible days after I treated it, now it is almost gone.


since my jacket was stained during its time in the making, no idea what stained it and it made worse by someone tried to rub clean it with something probably water and soap, and it was left on it for weeks until I got it home, I tried to live with it for a week or so, but I can't and just try stuff to lessen it.
 
Last edited:

Nykwil

One of the Regulars
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I didn’t think collars cracking was a thing I had to worry about considering all the curated vintage jackets I’ve looked at, but I guess that’s why they’re curated.

For jackets that last beyond our lifetime what year would this develop? I have always been notoriously lazy about wiping down my leather boots after sloshing in New England snow and they tend to develop cracks, but now I’m starting to rethink my leather care habits and start wiping down after every other wear.

I sweat like crazy too (but strangely no scent) but I’ve got like a wax and clay laden pomp and my fit is slim and tight so I blame it on that.
 

sweetfights

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,228
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Canada
I don't have any real data to prove it, but i think leather cracking in the neck is due to sweat/skin oil buildup that doesn't get cleaned regularly and attacks the leather.
If i wear a jacket when it is pretty hot and get a sweaty neck i will usually wipe it down with a damp cloth at the end of the week or whenever i think about it.
I also do that on all my worn jackets once a year or so.
Some people also have sweat that is more acidic/aggressive than others and might need to do it more often.
^ agree!
 

zebedee

One Too Many
Messages
1,840
Location
Shanghai
saddle soap is easy to apply just wet cloth over it and lather it onto leather, will dry or get absorbed after awhile, and you can buff it a little.

hydrogen peroxide is sold as laundry bleach for more delicate fabrics or for colored clothes in several brands.
sometime also sold as hair dye mixture in several different concentrate 3% 6% 9% 12%
I mix it with a little water and use Qtip to apply on the stain and just leave it to take effect slowly, I also use it to clean stain on action figure body with no ill effect on the plastic, nowhere as aggressive as chlorine bleach, on action figure it probably take weeks and little by little the stain disappear, on my jacket I see the stain becomes less visible days after I treated it, now it is almost gone.


since my jacket was stained during its time in the making, no idea what stained it and it made worse by someone tried to rub clean it with something probably water and soap, and it was left on it for weeks until I got it home, I tried to live with it for a week or so, but I can't and just try stuff to lessen it.
We've all just got to accept the inevitable imperfections and not.. let... them... occupy... the... waking... moments.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
saddle soap is easy to apply just wet cloth over it and lather it onto leather, will dry or get absorbed after awhile, and you can buff it a little.

hydrogen peroxide is sold as laundry bleach for more delicate fabrics or for colored clothes in several brands.
sometime also sold as hair dye mixture in several different concentrate 3% 6% 9% 12%
I mix it with a little water and use Qtip to apply on the stain and just leave it to take effect slowly, I also use it to clean stain on action figure body with no ill effect on the plastic, nowhere as aggressive as chlorine bleach, on action figure it probably take weeks and little by little the stain disappear, on my jacket I see the stain becomes less visible days after I treated it, now it is almost gone.


since my jacket was stained during its time in the making, no idea what stained it and it made worse by someone tried to rub clean it with something probably water and soap, and it was left on it for weeks until I got it home, I tried to live with it for a week or so, but I can't and just try stuff to lessen it.

A couple of things. Regular use of saddle-soap destroyed a leather bag and jacket I had in the 1980's - it totally depleted the waxes and integrity of the leather. So I would be cautions. Thick leather tackle is a different hide and can take it.

Also the collars I have seen go bad, firstly go soft, fade and loose color, then go white, then crack. I think there are a few pathways to collar obliteration and not just one.

My own choice is to use a little Pecards on the area after a summer. That's it.
 

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