How to get that 'Tugboat'-shape

[djgo-cat-go]

This is a hat posted by Tom-N-Perris, and I was intrigued by the 'tugboat' shape of the hat.. Bashing seems one thing but getting this shape into a hat looks to me like pure craftmansship and skill.. Could someone tell me how to get this shape bashed into a hat? I'm hoping to receive my first ever 'serious'-hat (Federation IV) this week and my hands are itching..


Diego

this

 

[djgo-cat-go]

Oh, and beforehand, excuse me for my ignorance.. I'm an absolute newbie to hats.. until now I'm used to wearing caps or a pomp..

 

[Goose.]

Hello Diego...

What I did with my Federation IV Deluxe was to bash into a C crown with the front higher than the rear.
Then, while wearing the hat, I used my forefinger at the point (like pointing your finger towards the rear of your head as it rests on the front peak of the crown and pusing down) to bing the very front down to where I liked it. Doing so left the side edges higher than the front of wher the edges meet (pinch point).

Hope this makes sense. I'd take pics of the pushing down with the finger, but it's 2AM here. My wife already thinks I'm nuts. Taking pics at this hour would throw her over the edge

The hat in this pic has the front at 4.25" (10.7cm) and rear 3.25" (8.25cm):

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showpost.php?p=765427&postcount=141

Hope this helps. If not, I hope that someone that knows more than me can assist. There are a several gentlemen here with knowledge older than dirt that are always helpful.

 

[gtdean48]

I start by doing the back of the crease first. I put the hat on & use a paper clip or toothpick to set in the band in line with my nose so I know about where the front pinch will be. I then do the rear part of the crease be it a teardrop or diamond. I use a ruler to get it to about 4", then I go to the front & do the pinch at about 4.5". I then work the sides back to the rear.
2 Camp Drafts I did recently, the profile of the Silver Belly shows it best..

 

[Wil Tam]

hey dean are those oil stains I see on the silverbelly!?

 

[billyspew]

This is a hat posted by Tom-N-Perris, and I was intrigued by the 'tugboat' shape of the hat.. Bashing seems one thing but getting this shape into a hat looks to me like pure craftmansship and skill.. Could someone tell me how to get this shape bashed into a hat? I'm hoping to receive my first ever 'serious'-hat (Federation IV) this week and my hands are itching..


Diego

Follow the instructions that others have posted but I'd add that it looks like tom-n-perris has the front of the crease starting after the "break" (if that's the right word) of the crown i.e. instead of the crease starting on the straight vertical of the crown (as it looks like gtd's does) it starts part way into the curve of the crown.

Bill

 

[Torpedo]

As Billy says, the frontal "vee" apex is shallower in the first example, and because of this, the dome curve of the crown emphasizes the effect.

This, as most others things in hat creasing, is a matter of tastes, too.

When you get the hat, experiment with it for a while. Do some dry-creasing, look at you on the mirror, and so on. Do not press hard any crease edge at the tryout stage, just in case it leaves a trace on the felt that you do not want there later on.

Once you are satisfied, you can, if you want (or need) "set" the crease you have "drafted" by means of steam or water. At this moment you can press hard some ot the crease edges and shapes if you like them sharper or more defined. Take into account this may result (as mentioned before) in a trace on the surface, which may be difficult to remove if you ever change your mind and want another style.

Regards!

 

[Wil Tam]

why so technical....?

It's just a hat ... while it's still open crown put on yer noggin while in front of a mirror & make sure it is straight then take your thumb, forefinger & index finger to pull it off your head at the top front of the crown [it's quite a natural move]

then from there make a dent from front to back ... from there widen the back to get the c or diamond shape lowering the back about an inch than the front .. put it back on your head & pinch the front & dip the brim.

tis a matter of taste & the shape of your head for it to look right on you, some guys need the taper while others need it straight .. some look good with a low crown while others need it high.

...it's all relative [huh]

 

[djgo-cat-go]

Hello Diego...

What I did with my Federation IV Deluxe was to bash into a C crown with the front higher than the rear.
Then, while wearing the hat, I used my forefinger at the point (like pointing your finger towards the rear of your head as it rests on the front peak of the crown and pusing down) to bing the very front down to where I liked it. Doing so left the side edges higher than the front of wher the edges meet (pinch point).

Hope this makes sense. I'd take pics of the pushing down with the finger, but it's 2AM here. My wife already thinks I'm nuts. Taking pics at this hour would throw her over the edge

The hat in this pic has the front at 4.25" (10.7cm) and rear 3.25" (8.25cm):

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showpost.php?p=765427&postcount=141

Hope this helps. If not, I hope that someone that knows more than me can assist. There are a several gentlemen here with knowledge older than dirt that are always helpful.

Very nice shape, a lot smarter than my first example, more subtle.. I would love to see some pics of the finger-pushing-technique.. Thank you and goodnight!

 

[djgo-cat-go]

As Billy says, the frontal "vee" apex is shallower in the first example, and because of this, the dome curve of the crown emphasizes the effect.

This, as most others things in hat creasing, is a matter of tastes, too.

When you get the hat, experiment with it for a while. Do some dry-creasing, look at you on the mirror, and so on. Do not press hard any crease edge at the tryout stage, just in case it leaves a trace on the felt that you do not want there later on.

Once you are satisfied, you can, if you want (or need) "set" the crease you have "drafted" by means of steam or water. At this moment you can press hard some ot the crease edges and shapes if you like them sharper or more defined. Take into account this may result (as mentioned before) in a trace on the surface, which may be difficult to remove if you ever change your mind and want another style.

Regards!

Thank you, I will experiment for a while.. when the hat arrives. I'll take into consideration not to make permanent marks on the hat's surface before getting the shape that I like best.

 

[gtdean48]

hey dean are those oil stains I see on the silverbelly!?

Nope, rain drops...very BIG rain drops!

 

[gtdean48]

...but I'd add that it looks like tom-n-perris has the front of the crease starting after the "break" (if that's the right word) of the crown i.e. instead of the crease starting on the straight vertical of the crown (as it looks like gtd's does) it starts part way into the curve of the crown.

Here is one of mine that is example of what Billy is talking about. The front V is actually past the verticle part of the crown. Hope it shows up in these pics...

 

[djgo-cat-go]

It's just a hat ... while it's still open crown put on yer noggin while in front of a mirror & make sure it is straight then take your thumb, forefinger & index finger to pull it off your head at the top front of the crown [it's quite a natural move]

then from there make a dent from front to back ... from there widen the back to get the c or diamond shape lowering the back about an inch than the front .. put it back on your head & pinch the front & dip the brim.

tis a matter of taste & the shape of your head for it to look right on you, some guys need the taper while others need it straight .. some look good with a low crown while others need it high.

...it's all relative [huh]

I'm a technical kinda guy but appreciate also a more natural approach! I reckon my technique is adapting all insights/technique/tastes members of this lounge seem to have and try to filter all this and take into account my own tastes.. but this is a natural thing to do for me and your right, it's just a hat, but it will be my first so I'm a little over-excited perhaps, wanting to do this thing right! I hope my hat will be in this week..

 

[CRH]

Thank you, I will experiment for a while.. when the hat arrives. I'll take into consideration not to make permanent marks on the hat's surface before getting the shape that I like best.

Don't worry about specific technique. Mold the hat like clay. Just pinch, poke and squeeze the felt until you get it to go where you want it to be. If you don't like what's happening then just pop out the crown and start over. The more you work the felt the more it will respond.

Don't worry about making permanent creases. The fur felt is very resilient and can be changed.

Don't get too stuck on symmetry issues. Creased hats have many different angles working on your eyes and these angles can work with or against each other depending on shadows and viewing angles among other variables. Every time you doff a hat it will sit at a little different angle than the last time. Even the asymmetry of our facial features can effect how we perceive the angles of the hat crease.

Don't shoot for perfection. Shoot for character. After all, it is a character that resides under the hat .

 

[gtdean48]

You can "break" the felt by putting a very tight crease in a hat. A weak spot will always tend to be there, so when starting out, don't do anything very tight. For me, those are usually the back portions where I am raising the center part of the crown very close the the edge. Also, creases evolve. I work my creases whenever the hat gets damp. I set the general idea but know that as time goes on, the crease will continue to go to its final state. Some hats will actually show you how they want to look, happened with the second example I posted above. Be one with the hat! It is a zen thing like motorcycle maintenance!

 

[djgo-cat-go]

Don't worry about specific technique. Mold the hat like clay. Just pinch, poke and squeeze the felt until you get it to go where you want it to be. If you don't like what's happening then just pop out the crown and start over. The more you work the felt the more it will respond.

Don't worry about making permanent creases. The fur felt is very resilient and can be changed.

Don't get too stuck on symmetry issues. Creased hats have many different angles working on your eyes and these angles can work with or against each other depending on shadows and viewing angles among other variables. Every time you doff a hat it will sit at a little different angle than the last time. Even the asymmetry of our facial features can effect how we perceive the angles of the hat crease.

Don't shoot for perfection. Shoot for character. After all, it is a character that resides under the hat .

Haha, thanks for the advice!! You're right, I'm a little too worried and always have been a bit symmetrical.. lol Character makes the hat.

 

[djgo-cat-go]

You can "break" the felt by putting a very tight crease in a hat. A weak spot will always tend to be there, so when starting out, don't do anything very tight. For me, those are usually the back portions where I am raising the center part of the crown very close the the edge. Also, creases evolve. I work my creases whenever the hat gets damp. I set the general idea but know that as time goes on, the crease will continue to go to its final state. Some hats will actually show you how they want to look, happened with the second example I posted above. Be one with the hat! It is a zen thing like motorcycle maintenance!

I'll let the hat grow on me.. if I would only have it allready..

 

[CigarMan]

By the way Diego . . . that's a great looking green hat. BEAUTIFUL!!!!

 

[colinlyne]

This is a hat posted by Tom-N-Perris,

What is this hat anyone? Thanks.

 

[kaosharper1]

I believe it is an Art Fawcett custom.