Is this G-1 genuine, repro or civilian?

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Raul, Dec 8, 2019.

  1. Raul

    Raul Familiar Face

    Messages:
    64
    Location:
    Italy
    I found a G-1 jacket for a good price but I am not sure if it's a genuine vintage, a civilian version (the shop label makes me think it could be) or a later repro.
    Any hint is welcome, here is a few pic, thank you very much in advance:
    [​IMG]
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    bn1966 likes this.
  2. thor

    thor One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,877
    Location:
    NYC, NY
    That appears to be a 1970 manufactured G-1 that was sold in the base PX at some USMC facility. I believe that some makers of MILSPEC G-1 jackets had leftover stock that they relabeled and sold to civilians.
     
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  3. Raul

    Raul Familiar Face

    Messages:
    64
    Location:
    Italy
    Thank you, I don't know if it is still goat (preferred) or already cow, the fur I suppose is synthetic, what do you think?
    So the manufacturer is unknown?
    It sells for the equivalent of about $180, I don't know if it's a good price or not
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2019
  4. Peacoat

    Peacoat Bartender Staff Member Bartender

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    4,953
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    Good answer @thor. This is the first one I have seen where the civilianized jacket had the civilianizing tags attached below the military tag. This is a huge help to us tag nerds.
     
    thor likes this.
  5. Peacoat

    Peacoat Bartender Staff Member Bartender

    Messages:
    4,953
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    Based on the series number you may or may not have a mouton collar. The latter D series have Dynal collars. Should be able to tell by close inspection. The shell on your G-1 is goat.
     
  6. Raul

    Raul Familiar Face

    Messages:
    64
    Location:
    Italy
    So in this case from the label one cannot tell who manufactured it
     
  7. El Marro

    El Marro Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,043
    Location:
    California
    How are the knits? $180.00 sounds like a good price to me but oftentimes these vintage jackets need replacement knits so that is something to keep in mind.
     
  8. Peacoat

    Peacoat Bartender Staff Member Bartender

    Messages:
    4,953
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    The manufacturer of these jackets is not given in code. If it isn't plainly stated on the label, no way to know. However, some G-1 experts can spot the manufacturer by various tell tale signs from the jacket itself. I am not one of those experts. In fact, I'm not an expert at all; I just know a little about these military tags and how they relate to the jackets they are on—a tag nerd.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2019
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  9. Deacon211

    Deacon211 Practically Family

    Messages:
    988
    Location:
    Kentucky
    The Marine Shop is a tailor in Quantico (literally in Quantico town) that sells uniforms primarily to officers, as OCS is based there.

    They are generally of superior quality to what the MCX sells and they have various amounts of “snivel gear” for sale to young Officer Candidates and 2nd LTs undergoing training at the Officer Basic Course, also known as The Basic School (TBS).

    When I went through there in ‘89, they still sold aftermarket G-1 jackets there. They were probably Coopers as that is what we were being issued at P-cola in those days.

    At a glance, it looks a bit like pressed cowhide, but that’s just a guess.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  10. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Vendor

    Messages:
    353
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    It looks Mil spec. It looks like possibly a Brill Bros. jacket. They held some contracts during the 1970's. I have one and it is nearly identical.

    The collar is synthetic and the hide is cowhide with added goat grain. These are very tough jackets and will last a lifetime but take a while to break in.

    -Jay
     
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  11. Peacoat

    Peacoat Bartender Staff Member Bartender

    Messages:
    4,953
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    Yes, the collar might be synthetic as that was allowed in the latter D series. It is not, however, pressed cow, as that wasn't in the specs until the next series. The D series called for goat.

    This assumes the mil spec tag is legit.
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2019
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  12. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Vendor

    Messages:
    353
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    I have seen many pressed Cow G-1's and this hide matches. The spec changed very early in 1971. January 17th. This company was making contract jackets in 1970 leading up to the new specs in 71. They could have used new spec materials. I have seen this on other G-1's. I had a star Sportswear C series that was made just before the spec change. It had the new double ply knits installed. All other C series I have ever seen has had Bi-Weave waist knits. I attribute this to being late in the series, Just before the spec change. They had the new knits on hand, maybe they ran out of the Bi-weave, put on the new spec.

    Could be the same thing here. I will post a pic of my Pressed Cow circa 1975.

    -Jay
     
  13. Peacoat

    Peacoat Bartender Staff Member Bartender

    Messages:
    4,953
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    I agree, the photographs could well be pressed cowhide, but I don't know enough to tell the difference between pressed cow and goat based on two pics. I just go by the specs for the contract as noted on the tag. If Skyhawk (OP) knew the hand of goat, it would be a simple matter for him to tell the difference just by handling his jacket.
     
  14. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,876
    Location:
    Australia
    Darn it. Every time I see a G1 I want one. Except for the fluffy collar.
     
  15. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Vendor

    Messages:
    353
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    I am not the OP but I have handled a lot of G-1's, possibly near 100 jackets over 15 years of buying and selling.

    The grain is too uniform and pebbles are to too defined to be a natural grain.
    Cow-Goat.jpg
    Pressed Cow Hide on my 1975 Brill Bros. G-1
    Pocket-50.jpg
    Real Goat will have variance in the pebble size and density.
    Pressed goat from the 1970's has a uniform grain and the pebbles are more defined, they bump up higher.
    Zip-50.jpg
    This is a broken in G-1 but theses characteristics would be found on a brand new hide as well. That pressed grain Cowhide will never age like this goatskin. It does not have the pliability.
    -J
     
  16. Edward

    Edward Bartender

    Messages:
    20,818
    Location:
    London, UK
    Sounds like what you actually want is an ANJ3. ;)
     
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  17. thor

    thor One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,877
    Location:
    NYC, NY
    639E7A33-CFC1-49F4-8D7B-FC076395E0C1.jpeg
    Not sure if this is the same jacket as the OP mentioned, but this is on eBay right now. Also a size 42. Same labels.
     
    Benny Holiday likes this.
  18. Stevo

    Stevo New in Town

    Messages:
    6
    I purchased the above jacket posted by thor after receiving an offer to buy from the seller of $45.... I couldn’t turn it down. The leather feels and looks like pressed cowhide while the collar is a beautifully soft mouton. Seems to have never been worn as the leather appears to be new. Fit is slightly more trim than my 1971 contract Star Sportswear and the sleeves (not including cuffs) are a full 2 inches longer. The leather is definitely stiffer than my broken in goat skin jacket. If the tag is legitimate, the contract number indicates manufacture by Brill Bros.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2020
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