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It IS All About Arm Holes

scotrace

Head Bartender
Staff member
Messages
14,376
Location
Small Town Ohio, USA
In support of what Mr. Deckard has been saying all along:

From the premier issue of Men's Vogue (which isn't that bad), "Alexandre Plokhov is lifting his arm up and down, up and down, to emphasize his point. 'It's all about getting the cut of the sleeve right', he says. 'A narrow armhole is better. It it's too deep, it tends to lift the jacket when you raise your arm.'
This is one of the many laws of tailordynamics that govern the science of suitmaking."
[Plokhov is a bespoke tailor (Cloak Bespoke)]

And

From the textbook Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear [Fairchild Publications, 1983-1984, Robert Cabrera & Patricia Flaherty Meyers]
"Contrary to popular belief, the most comfortable armhole for a sleeve is one which is cut as high as possible without restricting the forward movement of the arm. A low-cut armhole is only comfortable if a sleeve is not attached. With a sleeve set into a low-cut armhole, raising one's arm involves raising the entire side of the jacket."

And there you have it. I have yet to see a modern off the rack suit jacket or sport coat at any price with properly set sleeves, with the possible and unlikely exception of the very cheap cotton twill throw-on jacket that I got at Old Navy for $20, that is otherwise quite puckered and sloppy, and only suitable for lay-about weekend trips to the store for milk.
 

Matt Jones

Familiar Face
Messages
58
scotrace said:
"With a sleeve set into a low-cut armhole, raising one's arm involves raising the entire side of the jacket."

Absolutely true, and it's a horrible sight to behold. Even worse when the jacket has huge shoulder pads!
 
Let me tell you the special problem with high armholes and vintage wool suits. High 1930s armholes were, shall we say, "in intimate daily contact" with 1930s armpits ... the kind that were not in much contact with deodorant. More often than not, the wool grabbed hold of the funk and has never let go. I'm all for nostalgia, but body odor that outlives its source by decades just isn't for me.

-- Marc
 

shamus

Suspended
Messages
801
Location
LA, CA
have you tried cleaning it? And the smell just adds to the "correctness" of the period. Or just buy suits from places that are cold and people don't sweat that much.
 

Vladimir Berkov

One Too Many
Messages
1,291
Location
Austin, TX
I am looking into having a bespoke suit made here in Austin. I am going to need at least one good suit for interviews and it might as well be a suit I can enjoy. The tailor says he is willing to work with vintage styles and that a higher, tighter armhole wouldn't be a problem. Nor will higher rise, straighter cut trousers or a more fitted coat with a high button stance. I will keep you all apprised on whether or not this experiment works out...
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
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10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
I was going to title a book close to the same thing, though I would have called it It's all about the armholes.

I read the same article. I think the return to fit is catching on.

It is all about the armholes, and the smaller they are, the better the comfort and maneuverablity.
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
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10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
It's sad to live in a day in age when you must consult a custom tailor on getting high cut armholes. It's sad to live in a day in age when tailors still don't get the concept of a suit that is made for function and for looks rather than simply looks.

The recent Brooks Brothers anniversery book that was put out talks of a suit wearer paddling down a river wearing one of their suits. Try that in a modern day suit coat and you'll have wool over your head.
 
The irony is that Carnaby Street suits from the '60s (and their bad imitators in the '70s) had high armholes. On second thought, it's not so surprising, since Carnaby St. was studded with renegade tailors who'd learned their craft on Savile Row.

John Travolta's white polyester suit in "Saturday Night Fever". High armholes? Yep. Guess they were necessary for all that Disco arm-waving.

-- Marc
 

Daniel Riser

A-List Customer
Messages
349
Location
51st State
Something tells me that there was a very dark chapter in Marc's history where he had to "intimately" inspect the condition of one of his suits and to his shock and horror discovered the... ahem... funk.

I found a great window pane double breasted suit for $20 at a swap meet, then I found out that it was completely rotted through because of the arm holes. I was disappointed but it ended well... The "Hollywood Costume house" bought it from me at the Santa Monica Vintage Expo, so some poor starving actor will have to wear a very disgusting suit for a day.
 

Mr. Rover

One Too Many
Messages
1,875
Location
The Center of the Universe
How about Shirts?

For a well fitting shirt, does the arm hole size make a dramatic difference? I just had a taiwanese tailor make me 3 shirts, and the arm holes are quite small, but there are creases that run from my collar bone down to arm pit. Is this a sign that the chest is cut too small?

Ray
 

Mr. Rover

One Too Many
Messages
1,875
Location
The Center of the Universe
The yoke seems too small, that may be wear the problem is coming from. I'll bring it back to him tomorrow to see what he can do about it. The problem with the custom shirt is there isn't any fabric he can add to inside the shirt.

ray
 

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