Japanese Configuration.

[Sloan1874]

Had heard quit a bit about the slimmer fit Japanese configuration (JC) on Aero jackets, meant for slimmer types, and never read any description of what it's like, but finally got to try one on today. It was a LHB with the side-belts lowered by about three inches - the owner was apparently quite tall and was wearing the jacket shorter than it would normally be worn, hence the modification.
The arm is set quite high compared to the normal position, but anyone hoping for a Savile Row-style fit around their arm pit is going to be disappointed - for production reasons, there is a limit to how small the hole can be - as the sleeve still sits about an inch-and-a-half beneath the pit area, so enough room for a jumper.
However, the reduction, along with the bi-wing fitting, does go some way to tackle the restricted arm movement that some people have mentioned in the LHC normal set-up and is generally a tighter fit around the body.
If what you're looking for a fit that is what I suppose you could describe as a slightly 'sharper' and modern, then this could be for you.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

- for production reasons, there is a limit to how small the hole can be - as the sleeve still sits about an inch-and-a-half beneath the pit area, so enough room for a jumper.

What production reasons are those? I don't believe it. I can't imagine why anyone would want leather jacket pits to fit that close but can see no physical or engineering/tailoring reason that they couldn't …

 

[Sloan1874]

Will explained to me that the jackets are constructed inside out, then have to be pulled through to complete them. Obviously, this means that there is a minimum size for the arm hole so that the arm fabric can be dragged through.

I actually own a Paul Smith three-quarter length brown leather runway piece that I found in a sale that is close to a 'suit fit'. It's very much a night time fashion coat, with over long sleeves and art-deco-style cuffs, and the neat fit means it has a great silhouette.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Ah, I didn't realise that. Of course, making them inside out helps to machine stitch the arms into place and would necessitate a large enough hole to "right" the sleeve. A new piece of information to know …

If the arm were attached right side out, and stitched in place by hand, of course there is no limit to the smallness of the armhole.

bk

 

[Sloan1874]

It was something that had never occurred to me before, but a visit to the Aero factory was really illuminating. Only problem: Too. Many. Options. It's the proverbial sweet shop.

 

[Fanch]

It was something that had never occurred to me before, but a visit to the Aero factory was really illuminating. Only problem: Too. Many. Options. It's the proverbial sweet shop.

Too many choices based on close observation is far better than too many choices based on electronic information from a distance of almost 5000 miles.

 

[Sloan1874]

Absolutely! Especially given that it's such finely judged process - one inch here or there can be enough to throw out the balance of a jacket - and being able to see completed ones in different colours was a big help. I was glad to be guided gently through the process by Will, especially the measurements - those cuffs can be treacherous! I'm now at the start of a 12 week wait. I'm not sure how I'll cope.
The thing is, though, when I saw all the different styles and what-not, just as I was ordering my jacket I was already thinking: "And I also really fancy a nice Redskin shearling." That way madness lies, of course, though it explains why the head of Porsche owns a good number of them. But if I had his money, I'd do that too.