Minimalistic MA1 or similar mid-range options

[cbez]

yep but some are ahistorical in a cheap, corner cutting way and some are ahistorical in a creative way.

 

[Aloysius]

I own plenty of one-piece back jackets but I think we kind of overhype them in our space. Almost none of the hideous leather jackets by SLP and others that people salivate over has a one-piece back.

A two (or more) piece also contributes to better shape.

 

[cbez]

I can see how horizontal pieces, yokes, etc or even middle/side pieces can help with the back shape, but not a single vertical seam.

if I wanted a drapey fashion one schott lamb would be one I would consider.

新品 Schott ラムレザー MA-1 オーバーサイズ M - Yahoo!オークション

■ショットのラムレザーMA-1です。■色は黒、表記サイズはM、平置き実寸は以下通りです。肩幅：48脇下0部分身幅：59.5着丈：63袖丈：65※若干の誤差はご了承下さい。尚、こちらはオーバーサイズのモデルとなります。■非常に柔らかいラムレザーで、動きやすく着心地もいいです

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[Aloysius]

I disagree but I agree that jacket would be a great choice and it's in OP's budget.

 

[Aloysius]

To go full circle, OP, have you considered getting the Buzz Rickson William Gibson MA-1? Or L-2B if you want essentially the same thing but without the heavy winter lining?

IMO it's plain cooler than most leather jackets, which I almost hate to admit because I've spent a lot more on leather jackets than I did on the Gibson jacket but it's arguably much more impressive, from the beautiful shell fabric (which is something I had never expected before from a synthetic material) to the trim to the Crown zippers.

 

[BigBoss]

Thanks guys, great discussion. Here's the funny part, I own a ton of jackets...5 of which are in the MA1 variety (different colors, materials, and styles, but nonetheless) since they just work really well with my wardrobe...One of which is a black nylon traditional flight jacket, although admittedly it is not the highest quality, and I will replace that some day with a Buzz or similar. I just don't have a black leather jacket now, and figured I'd kill two birds with one stone. Those Taylor's look like really nice options as well.

 

[BigBoss]

Just reviving this thread to update what I ended up with. Found very close to what I was looking for in this at Wested. Figured it was worth the risk/reward as I've heard generally positive things about their stuff. Understanding it's not in the same playing field as Aero or other favorites here, it's a very nice jacket for the price, that fit what I was looking for. In fact I'm also thinking about trying out Wested's custom services on the Bond London jacket from Spectre (John Varvatos Racer Suede replica).

With that said, I'm also browsing second-hand schott/aero/etc for a more traditional brown leather jacket on the next purchase.

 

[Edward]

I can see how horizontal pieces, yokes, etc or even middle/side pieces can help with the back shape, but not a single vertical seam.

I'm neither a tailor nor a cutter so lack the ability to describe it well, but it's to do with the fit over the shoulders and the horizontal curve of the back. The Aero Board Racer has, in the original patter by design, a vertical seam in the middle of the back. They do make them with a one piece back by request as a lot of people still want that, but they're clear that for those who want a very neat fit, like the 'racing shirt' it's patterned after rather than a jacket per se, the angle won't be right for the full form-fitting effect without the seam there.

Most often, of course, mainstream fashion designs those seams will be to minimise hide wastage and keep to a set retail price.

Just reviving this thread to update what I ended up with. Found very close to what I was looking for in this at Wested. Figured it was worth the risk/reward as I've heard generally positive things about their stuff. Understanding it's not in the same playing field as Aero or other favorites here, it's a very nice jacket for the price, that fit what I was looking for. In fact I'm also thinking about trying out Wested's custom services on the Bond London jacket from Spectre (John Varvatos Racer Suede replica).

With that said, I'm also browsing second-hand schott/aero/etc for a more traditional brown leather jacket on the next purchase.

The Wested jacket will, in person, be a very much more 'modern' look than an MA1 per se - it's also markedly longer, going by that photo: the body seems to hang down as far as the sleeves. Wested make some nice things, though you just have to be careful about the pattern and the leather. Some of their models are great, mostly the ones they made originally; others not so much. Their Captain America one is somewhat comically bad in look, particularly compared to the Aero Bootlegger (the original on screen is a modified Bootlegger, heavily distressed by the Marvel Studios wardrobe department). The ones they do well they do well, though. Then it's all about the hide (their heavier hides tend to be better imo). They tend to use very modern zips that often don't look right with the period a lot of the jackets are patterned after, but that's me being picky - especially for their price.

If I were looking at something MA1ish in leather, I might be tempted to start with this:

This is Miltec's reproduction of a 1980s, Bundeswehr LuftWaffe pilot's jacket. Fairly in expensive.... though the one I handled at least was comparable in quality to an original.

https://www.military1st.co.uk/10461002-mil-tec-german-army-leather-flight-jacket-black.html

Originals are all over eBay as well for +/- 200 notes, though they will all be grey as issued. The reproductions come either as a fully accurate repro, or in plain black. Fairly durable, I believe cowhide still. To my eye this design, having been worked for military use and thought out to be in leather - rather than just producing a copy of the MA1 in leather - looks better, not a bit out of place - but that of course is subjective preference.

This style seems to bed gaining in popularity - I've seen a few of the usual suspects on eBay offering their own versions - likely with photos lifted from elsewhere, so who knows what you'd actually receive for your eighty bucks or whatever....

 

[Aloysius]

I'm neither a tailor nor a cutter so lack the ability to describe it well, but it's to do with the fit over the shoulders and the horizontal curve of the back. The Aero Board Racer has, in the original patter by design, a vertical seam in the middle of the back. They do make them with a one piece back by request as a lot of people still want that, but they're clear that for those who want a very neat fit, like the 'racing shirt' it's patterned after rather than a jacket per se, the angle won't be right for the full form-fitting effect without the seam there.

Slight digression but it’s a bit funny how many TFL debates about fit and patterning are easily settled by a few minutes’ conversation with a tailor or shirtmaker.

For instance, the infamous “Aero lines” are a result of forward shoulder points on a readymade pattern that clashes with them. Someone with forward shoulder points will see those lines on shirts, leather jackets, nylon jackets etc (unless bespoke) while perhaps having no such issue in his suits, because even a readymade pad solves the issue whereas the former garments are not made with padding.

 

[Edward]

Slight digression but it’s a bit funny how many TFL debates about fit and patterning are easily settled by a few minutes’ conversation with a tailor or shirtmaker.

For instance, the infamous “Aero lines” are a result of forward shoulder points on a readymade pattern that clashes with them. Someone with forward shoulder points will see those lines on shirts, leather jackets, nylon jackets etc (unless bespoke) while perhaps having no such issue in his suits, because even a readymade pad solves the issue whereas the former garments are not made with padding.

There is that. And TBH I think an awful lot of these "problems" really boil down to some patterns suiting some more than other body shapes, or personal preference.