Natural HH mistery - Help needed!

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Tom71, May 22, 2020.

  1. Tom71

    Tom71 One of the Regulars

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    Sooooo!

    Some of you may remember, that I am busily weathering my "raw" natural italian HH Primo HWM for quite some time now. Lately I´ve been thinking, "Well, this is not really getting any darker any more, is it...!?!"

    Today I had a closer look and guess what I found: The hide is actually getting lighter again (thereby showing all the stains much more prominent). The Areas NOT exposed to sunlight are actually much darker than the main body/sleeves.

    I attach pix from today; the second one shows the underside of the collar, i.e. an area which can possibly see no sunlight or very, very little of it.

    Not sure how much that bothers me, but I thought I´d show it to you guys. Any thoughts most welcome...
     
  2. Tom71

    Tom71 One of the Regulars

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    HWM6.jpg HWM7.jpg
     
  3. Carlos840

    Carlos840 Call Me a Cab

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    Only thing i can think of is that you need to move to California to get the correct sun.
    Think about it, everyone in the UK is pale, maybe our sun just isn't setup right for taning.
     
    red devil, Peacoat, Tom71 and 3 others like this.
  4. torfjord

    torfjord Practically Family

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    That... makes no sense at all. Super weird. These natural leathers should tan a little even in cloudy conditions. But it sure looks like the sun has bleached it. Never ever seen anything like that happen to natural leather. Have you asked Aero about it?
     
    Tom71 likes this.
  5. Will Zach

    Will Zach Practically Family

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    The hide is quite clearly getting bleached by sunlight. Might be worth asking Aero. Some dyes get bleached by sunlight, maybe that is what the tannery used on that hide.
     
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  6. marker2037

    marker2037 One of the Regulars

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    I guess you could put some type of neatsfoot oil on it and get it into some sunlight to see how it reacts to that.
     
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  7. jacketjunkie

    jacketjunkie One Too Many

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    I thought the whole idea of natural hide is that it doesnt have a dye and is a naked hide that will tan in the sun.. if the leather has a dye/topcoat on the hide, it cannot tan, can it?
     
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  8. Will Zach

    Will Zach Practically Family

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    ^^
    True enough, no dyes, but tanners do use lightly colored compounds like tree bark in their natural leather tanning process. No idea what that specific tannery uses, but whatever it is it bleaches.
     
  9. navetsea

    navetsea My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I think your leather is dry, the part hidden under the collar has more oil in it
    sun can only brown so much, the rest is just embedded dirt/ stains, oxidation, and oil, and accumulation of little brown color the oil has, at least that is what I believe. I sun tanned my belt for awhile but once it browned a little it didn't get any darker from doing it, so when I oiled it, it got a step darker. and then you can sun tan it again, perhaps the UV will break down composition in the oil or maybe the oil oxidize then it get another step darker again, and so on.

    I see on my darker veg tan belt it has oil pull effect from accumulation of light oiling over the year
    [​IMG]
    Same with my wristband, sorry my belt is on another pants.
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2020
  10. Tom71

    Tom71 One of the Regulars

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    Fair point, Carlos! It’s an Italian hide, though and Italian hides never seem to pale. Even those in Bermondsey and Fitzrovia...
     
  11. Tom71

    Tom71 One of the Regulars

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    Haven’t reached out to Aero yet, as I only discovered that misters yesterday but will do so. Weird thing is, that it DID tan and big time all the time. Process seems to be reversed only for the last weeks or so.
     
  12. Tom71

    Tom71 One of the Regulars

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    I am thinking about that. Thing is, I wanted to let the leather evolve naturally, no oil, no rubbing with a damp cloth to even out the rain-stains etc.
     
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  13. Tom71

    Tom71 One of the Regulars

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    Yes, it’s a “naked” hide. Aero used this leather for their collab with Epaulet, and there are pretty impressive photos of the tanning process on the net. They made me reach out to Holly and ask about the leather in the first place.
     
  14. Tom71

    Tom71 One of the Regulars

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    Thanks for chiming in! I was hoping on that, as you always have spot-on suggestions.
    All I can say is, that the leather doesn’t FEEL particularly dry and certainly not more so at the “bleached” parts.
    As I said above, I guess now comes the time to start experimenting with the hide and maybe apply some oil or so. Will wait and see what Ken/Denny say first, though. I am a believer in natural aging, so I may need to rethink my approach.
     
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  15. torfjord

    torfjord Practically Family

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    I would be very interested in hearing Aeros response, as I am considering a jacket in that exact leather.
     
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  16. navetsea

    navetsea My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    True naked vegtan is a lot drier than wax stuffed leather, only my 2cents but light conditioning vegtan especially after the jacket is baked in the sun is to me a normal maintenance and part of natural aging of a leather item, i dont think naked nat vegtan would be maintenance free if you want it to evolve nicely taking caramel brown patina sheen like that on photos, part of it is coming from beeswax I think.
    The point is to do it lightly and not too often, and brush it with horsehair from time to time to clean the pores and build up some sheen, all to me sounds like normal maintenance, not over tampering or faking it.
    Finished top coated leather or oil pull both are a lot easier in maintenance since oil dont escape a pigmented surface and the other is so rich in oil and wax that takes decades to dry out to finally need oil supplement.
     
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  17. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    This makes a lot of sense. If you think of a saddle, they are cleaned and maintained, and look fantastic after years of use.
     
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  18. 58panheadfan

    58panheadfan A-List Customer

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    @Tom71 Be happy with this cool jacket and even more with this nice unique color. I like it a lot, personally much more than this, seen on every corner actually, suntanned ocre, gold etc. color
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2020
  19. Tom71

    Tom71 One of the Regulars

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    Thanks again. As Handymike said, this makes perfect sense. I did check with Ken about “special treatment” of the hide, and the answer was not to worry, but I clean and wax my shoes regularly, so I guess I’m convinced.

    I did reach out to Aero today too and will let you know about their take on this.
     
    navetsea likes this.
  20. 58panheadfan

    58panheadfan A-List Customer

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    That would be perfect. As Aero stated, do nothing absolute nothing with a new Jacket until 2035. Most people baby their Jackets to much (incl. me). Top of the wacky I have seen: a guy from another forum stuffed his MF Campus Jacket full of (olive) oil! and destroyed a nice Jacket which it was originally...
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2020

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