Revisited: The Double-breasted Blazer

[Mike K.]

Greetings all,
I just received the latest Land's End catalog in the mail. As I was perusing the pages I discovered that the company now carries a navy double-breasted blazer, much like the one Hemingway showed off on a FL thread last summer. Given what some folks were saying, the DDB hasn't been an easy find so I thought I'd give everyone a "heads up" if you've been trying to achieve a certain summer look. The website says the jacket has a back vent, but it actually has side vents (according to the catalog). Here is the link:

http://www.landsend.com/pp/Traditio...l?CM_MERCH=PAGE_37358&sid=2791195903026160090

 

[Hemingway Jones]

That's a good classic look, and at an excellent price. Lands End seems to have some very good offerings. I do wish the lapels were a little beefier and that the peaked lapel was a bit more horizontal, but still, excellent jacket and thanks for posting.

 

[Mike in Seattle]

What a coincidence - my latest Ebay steal arrived yesterday. Midnight blue, double-breasted, peak lapels in flawless condition for $9.99 and it fit perfectly right out of the box. I rushed it to the cleaners so I can wear it to an event next weekend, but I'll try to remember to post a picture later.

 

[Jovan]

From my understanding, isn't the double breasted blazer supposed to have no vents?

 

[reetpleat]

I am not a fan of hte brass buttons even on a single breated, I think having them on a double makes it look like a band uniform or something like that. That and the two button closure for that decidely moderm db look. I would muhc rathe just find a blue double breated vintage suit or suit coat and wear it a a blazer. that is the origins anyway. but if one is wanting to buy new I guess there is much less choice. But still, many modern companies are doing suits in a more traditional four button closure, and will sell without pants. So I would have to pass on the lands end. BUt I guess we can give them props for even doing it.

 

[AlanC]

I would muhc rathe just find a blue double breated vintage suit or suit coat and wear it a a blazer. that is the origins anyway.

The origin of the blazer is not as an orphaned suit coat. The brass buttons are traditional, certainly dating from before the 'Golden Era'. Just look at old Apparel Arts/Esky pics.

Here I am in my double breasted. I love 'em:

 

[Jovan]

They are from sailor's uniforms, from what I know.

 

[reetpleat]

The origin of the blazer is not as an orphaned suit coat. The brass buttons are traditional, certainly dating from before the 'Golden Era'. Just look at old Apparel Arts/Esky pics.

Here I am in my double breasted. I love 'em:

It is my undertanding that there are some theories as to the origin, involving a ship called the blazer, hence the brass buttons, and other stories, but it my understanding that for the most part the sportcoat evolved from men in the twenties wearing grey or blue jackets with tan white grey or blue slacks, for a dressed down look for sporting activities.

The blazeer technically may be something different.

Anyone got the straight scoop. Although I suspect there are differing stories.

 

[Alan Eardley]

Blazer

Correct. Before the 1780s Royal Navy seamen did not have a uniform. The captain of HMS Blazer decided it was time to introduce a little sartorial elegance 'tween decks and paid for the blue jackets that became known after the ship. They were afterwards gradually introduced throughout the fleet and are seen frequently in paintings by the time of the Napoleonic war period.

The originals were waist length, double breasted with brass buttons and had no collar, a neckerchief being worn with a straw hat and pigtail. Nice!

I am reliably informed that a modern blazer should have patch pockets, by the way. Who makes these rules?

Alan

 

[Jovan]

No collar? I can't imagine what that means or how it looks. Do you have any pictures of this?

As far as rules go, it's only up to the wearer. Patch or jetted pockets, double or single breasted, brass or horn buttons can all look good.

 

[Connemara]

From my understanding, isn't the double breasted blazer supposed to have no vents?

I'm pretty sure it's been (traditionally) constructed with side vents.

 

[Jovan]

I thought besides frock coats, all double breasted jackets traditionally had no vents. Double breasted with vents is a bit busy, as is with a ticket pocket. Not sure when side vented jackets first came about, but the earliest I see it in popular culture is the late fifties.

 

[Mike K.]

Excerpts from Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion

The Blazer
The first blazers had been part of English cricket club scenery as well as other sporting environs since the 1880s. These sport jackets were customarily decorated with stripes in the club's colors. Some were so bright that they became known as "blazers." They were subsequently joined by versions of the English navy's reefer jacket in double- and single-breasted models with gilt buttons and club badge on the breast pocket. With blue and white as the imperatives of nautical dress, navy blazers and white trousers made a dashing sports outfit for the wealthy...man of the 1920s.

Also interesting to note
The Blazer Button
The most traditional blazer button is the brass or gilt variety. Alternatively...button in dull nickel or silver. ....off-white mother-of-pearl buttons are always an option.

 

[Orgetorix]

I've heard both accounts of the blazer's origin (the naval story and the club story) from various reliable sources, and I don't know which is right. Maybe both are.

 

[Alan Eardley]

I think this reference is inaccurate. For a start, there is no such thing as 'the English Navy' and the Royal Navy has never worn a 'reefer jacket'.

Most of all, there are references to 'blazer jackets' well before the 1880s

Alan

 

[Alan Eardley]

No collar? I can't imagine what that means or how it looks. Do you have any pictures of this?

These are the best I can do at short notice. A few sketches done in 1794 of seamen wearing blazer jackets.

 

[Cacklewack]

This no collar, brass button business reminds me of this:

 

[Mike in Seattle]

The picture of Leo in Aviator reminds me of something I've often wondered. We all know the ancient rule that white's only to be worn between Memorial Day and Labor Day. That means, I've been told, the rest of the year, you wear off-white, bone or ivory AKA "winter white."

But does that THEN also mean that the shades of "winter white" slacks are out from Memorial Day to Labor Day? Just curious...not that I have either white or "winter white" trousers.

 

[Mike K.]

Mike in Seattle - I recall reading on another thread that the white rule applies primarily to more temperate climates. Those of us living in more tropical regions can (supposedly) get away with white or off-white on a year 'round basis. I would love to know the history behind where the rule came from.

Well...back to the original intention of this post.
Historic origins aside, the Lands End double-breasted blazer is the only modern one I've seen lately (not including any DB suit jackets used as a blazer). Anybody know of other retailers with similar products?

 

[AlanC]

Brooks Brothers carries them. I would think quite a few more traditionally minded retailers would, although probably more on the higher end cost wise. LE is likely the value find in db. It's also likely that they would be more available among fall/winter offerings than spring/summer.