Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Amie]

Thanks LD. Now, how would you sew the stiffening?

 

[Amie]

I finally got around to examining some of my 40s patterns and really taking a good look. I'm a newbie so I've been practicing my skills using modern as well as 60s and 70s patterns, but now I feel sort of ready to tackle the projects I really want to make. When I got down to looking at my 40s patterns, I was surprised by the sizes. To me, they seemed very true to size unlike the later stuff (60s-on), which I found had much more wearing ease I guess due to the style. So now I find that all of my 40s patterns (I own only 5 so far) really don't fit me because I've had that moden mind set and assumed there would be more wearing ease. I guess I will have to painstakingly adjust the pattern a bit. I also found I gained a bit of weight over the past 6 months or so. However, anyways, the specific problem I have with sizing is that with 40s patterns because the waist tends to be so tight, it really doesn't seem to fit my figure. My measurements are odd, pair shaped I guess: 30 1/2, 29 1/2, 34 1/2. What do you do when you have this problem. Also, for dresses, would it be better for me to purchase a 30 bust or should I look at hip or waist size? Maybe I would fare better making separates. Here's the pattern I'm working on. I bought it in Bust 30, but I'm thinking now I should have bought larger.

 

[kamikat]

Amie, it really depends on your bone structure. Common wisdom is that the upperchest/shoulders/neck area is the hardest area to fit. Do you have wide shoulders for your frame? Narrow? Are your petite or tall? Here's something to think about: when you buy a classic button-front blouse off-the-rack, does it fit everywhere but the collar is too large around your neck or too tight to button all the way up? Typically, if you have a bust that is larger than a C cup or smaller than a B cup, it is recommended to purchase patterns based on your highbust measurement. This is measured directly under the armpits. The pattern pattern is give a Full Bust Adjustment (D and larger) or a Small Bust Adjustment (B cup and smaller). Because the ****** tissue is where there is less or extra, you are removing or adding just at the ******. You may have a small ****** but the same size back as someone with the same bra band number as you. You don't want to remove fabric from the back or sides. As for the waists being tight, this is because vintage patterns are drafted to be worn with proper foundations, ie girdles. If you don't wish to wear a girdle, simply add only to the waist area.

 

[Amie]

Thanks for the tips kamikat.

 

[Idledame]

I was unfamiliar with a walking-foot, but have been avoiding sewing silk because of the slipping problem. I have a box full of pre 1960 feet. Thought I had them all! Sounds wonderful! I also came across a reference to a silk-foot.
http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/us/5786.htm
Anyone know which is better? I read several sewing blogs that said they used walking foot ALL the time except for zippers. Sounds like it solves one of the top ten problems in sewing! Love to hear from those who have one, what they think of it.
Also, I see on Amazon that the prices range from $15 brand NN,
$19 brand Distinctive, $29 brand Janome. Any comments on brands?

 

[Idledame]

Ok, couldn't wait. I found one online that says it works on my 40 yr old Elna, so I ordered it.

 

[Amie]

I am trying to make shoulder pads for the above dress I posted with cotton batting and was wondering if the cotton batting needs to be prewashed. Please help.

 

[Amie]

Sorry gals, but back to this pattern again. This is my first "true" vintage piece that I'm working on (I've tried 60s and 70s) so I need a lot of guidance. Since the old patterns don't give too much instruction, I was wondering if for a design like this it would be necessary to apply interfacing on the neckline. Here's the back of the envelope for a better view:

The front has an extended facing for the buttons that you can fold back plus another small piece of front facing and the back has one piece of facing.

I will be putting interfacing on the extended neckline in front because it will have buttonholes, but for the back, would it be necessary to apply interfacing? Also, if so, is it better to place the interfacing on the facing or directly to the garment neckline? I read that the latter is the more traditional method. Any suggestions? Also, would you interface the belt?

 

[Lady Day]

First, cotton batting does not need to be pre washed. The back facing for the collarless neckline does not need interfacing unless you want it. It won't do much for the drape, so I'd say leave the interfacing off. Apply the interfacing to the facing pieces. If you are using fusible then just follow the directions on that. If it's not fusible then I'd reccomend basting it into place on the fabric piece before you sew it to the dress.
Also, you can never ask too many questions. The ladies here love to help

LD

 

[Amie]

Ah, lightbulb went on. :eusa_clap

Btw, Any idea on the belt? (It is a belt that is attached to the dress).

 

[Lady Day]

I face everything, so this might be coming from the wrong person. The belt is attatched to he dress, as you said, so perhaps a light facing would help it keep it's shape. Just make sure you don't make the belt too tight.

LD

 

[Amie]

Thanks LD. I interfaced all of the facings and I really like how it's coming out so far.

 

[Land-O-LakesGal]

Anyone here ever hand sew an eyelet? I am working on a peasant style 40's blouse and it is calling for hand eyelets and gives some direction on sewing them. I also looked up a few tutorials and went out and bought myself an awl and thread today. So how about it ladies any advice for me?

 

[crwritt]

Anyone here ever hand sew an eyelet? I am working on a peasant style 40's blouse and it is calling for hand eyelets and gives some direction on sewing them. I also looked up a few tutorials and went out and bought myself an awl and thread today. So how about it ladies any advice for me?

I'd do a practice one first on a scrap, then you can be sure your its big enough for your lacing. I read some instructions that called
for tiny metal rings that you would work your stitches around. I think those instructions were for a corset, but the eyelets came out very uniform.

 

[BoPeep]

I've recently come to realize that I need to upgrade my sewing skills. It's high time I learn how to do welt pockets, underarm gussets, bound button holes, etc. rather than just ****le my way through them! haha While I know there are great blogs out there, I'm more of a book girl. Would you ladies recommend a subscription to Threads magazine? Is there a better magazine out there? Thanks!!

 

[jetgirl]

Anyone here ever hand sew an eyelet? I am working on a peasant style 40's blouse and it is calling for hand eyelets and gives some direction on sewing them. I also looked up a few tutorials and went out and bought myself an awl and thread today. So how about it ladies any advice for me?

You probably know this if you bought an awl, but you should never cut the fabric where you sew the eyelet, separate the fibers to push it through. Using embroidery floss makes it go quicker and the finish is pretty. I have hand bound eyelets; but I have also bound over metal eyelets as it makes the hole stronger and they look nicer. Honestly, I would just get some tiny eyelets in a cute color and set those. If you can't find a color you like in the fabric store, there is a huge variety in the scrapbooking aisle. I hand did eyelets on an 18th century corset, but I don't think I would for a peasant blouse. Of course that's just me!

 

[jetgirl]

I've recently come to realize that I need to upgrade my sewing skills. It's high time I learn how to do welt pockets, underarm gussets, bound button holes, etc. rather than just ****le my way through them! haha While I know there are great blogs out there, I'm more of a book girl. Would you ladies recommend a subscription to Threads magazine? Is there a better magazine out there? Thanks!!

I swear by (believe it or not) The Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing. It has been through a ton of editions and I used it as my textbook in college. I somehow misplaced my a while ago and decided I needed to replace it. Supposedly, the post-mid 80's editions have dropped the tailoring information, so I looked for an earlier edition. Although the sample projects in the back sure look dated! I found a copy on Etsy, they are fairly easy to find.

BTW, I just used it to "fill in the gaps" of my 1930's mail order pattern instructions; including making bound buttonholes.

 

[Gracie Lee]

My must-have guide to all things fiddly, advanced, or tailoring related is The Vogue-Butterick Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing Techniques. It's been through several editions, my copy dates to the 60s I believe, but I just love it. It's heavily illustrated and make so much sense. Threads, btw, is a wonderful magazine, but it's better for learning specific techniques (stitches for sewing leather gloves, i.e.) rather than overall tailoring, in my experience. It's the nature of the media, I suppose - each issue must have multiple, relatively brief articles covering a wide range of topics.

 

[Drappa]

I was wondering if anyone here could help me with a pattern. I'm making a muslin for McCall's 2440 (wrap dress) and there is a piece to the pattern I can't work out. It's called "Waistline Stay", and I don't understand what it's for or where it's attached exactly?
Also, I am confused by the pleats, as it gives the position of them but no indication of how many/how tight. I don't want the skirt part to become too short. There are four more lines that say to place pleats there, but they look completely different to the other pleat markings.
The pattern came new and uncut, but without instructions.

 

[Lady Day]

A stay is used as a measurement for a part of a pattern that is gathered. It tells you the appropriate length of the gather.
Do you have a picture of the pattern? Its difficult to know what to do without images.

LD