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Discussion in 'Suits' started by Matt Deckard, Aug 17, 2006.
Here's a little more focus on the tweed
Looks good Doug. I like that colorway. Great tie too. Seems like you've been upsizing the wardrobe with some nice stuff lately.
Thank you, Michael. I have picked up a few jackets, but this will probably be the last for at least a few months. The tie is a relatively rougher silk weave, an Italian made Vito Rufolo I bought at Mens Wearhouse in about 1990.
I love sport coats, along with chinos, it is my favorite article of clothing. At 52 and having, fortunately, remained the same size and fit my entire adult life (40L), I own, guessing, twelve or so of them (I live in NYC, so they are tucked into different small closets or a storage room in our building's basement - hence the guesstimate).
I bought this J.Crew one below in the fall because the grey herringbone wool (my favorite combo - this is my fourth version of a grey herringbone - as I wear it with everything from jeans to dress pants and, well, all the time) has a nice heavy feel, but being only partially lined it can be worn indoors and because its natural shoulders, 3/2, center vent and no darts are my favorite choice of details. While I have some nicer quality sport coats, this has become my go-to one as its simple look and partially lined structure make it comfortable and versatile.
And me in it - the mirrors almost 90 years old - hence, the grainy picture
Maybe a nice linen and a seersucker before you stop? A little something for summer wear. Ha ha. It's addictive.
I have that Flusser wool/linen jacket that is really light, but i would like an off- white silk blend ...
Ancient Madder ties, wool challis, and Macclesfields are always a safe bet with tweed. I also really like wearing my tweed sport coats with a black mohair wool WWII Officer's tie that I picked up. They have repros online for like $8 - $9 plus S&H. The black army ties Really look great with pretty much the Exact shirt that you're wearing right there, or the narrow blue and white, or even green and white, or red and white striped models, or a pink OCBD. LOVE your jackets and Hats sir! Great stuff! That last cadet gray tweed model would look outstanding with some dark brown trousers!
I sure appreciate the advice on ties that go with tweed. I've done web searches for exactly that subject but mostly find limited information related to what a shop has currently available for sale.
Love the sport coat and trousers in the top picture; for the general fit of that jacket though, it may be a bit slim on you, try the top button left open for a more draped and open (and less cramped fit, or get it let out a little bit, if possible. PLEASE, Don't mess with the sleeve length! That's absolutely the right amount of cuff to be showing. SERIOUSLY. Pull the trousers up higher though; I can see you have enough rise there; either a skinny belt with a western style belt and buckle and tip/keeper would give a Bogart - Big Sleep effect to the whole, or a nice pair of discrete suspenders would keep those trousers tamed! LOVE the hat!
As to the second sport coat; the fit is passable, but you might want to get the waist and chest taken in some, it blouses a bit; the fabric is very handsome, but I would say go for a richer/darker earth tone tie; perhaps a Macclesfield or Ancient Madder, and some dark brown trousers would look best, and break up the wall of beige effect. If your shirt is ivory/ecru, that's cool, and definitely can play in with a pair of brown trousers with a dark earth tone tie (brown, green, possibly wine), or a green stripe shirt, or a yellow shirt, or a white with blue tiger stripe shirt would look very nice, with a medium or small scale stripe. Anyway, over all, quite nice, and the sleeves aren't too baggy, either, though if you had them tapered a bit at the wrist it would definitely contribute to a better fit for you. I really can't express enough, how much I like that Prince of Wales/Glen Urquart Check/Plaid sport coat material though! Shame about the suit's matching trousers though, that they don't work! Keep on doin' your thing Sir! And again; Love your Hat!
I know (maybe) that I'll get some flack for this, but I've always loved a nice silk grenadine tie with tweed as well. It's super simple, echoes the texture of the suit, but with an entirely different (shiny/glossy-ish) finish, and the solidity of the usual (solid color only) offerings in grenadine ties excellently balances the busy-ness of most tweeds, and even with a herring-bone tweed, it can look really Awesome. Like a simple (say brown) herring-bone tweed, or a gray and black one, with a muted or subtlely checked shirt, or a windowpane of blue on white, with a solid navy blue, or green grenadine, or even a black one can really look Awesome! You can usually find them on the bay for a steal (buying new, they're usually ridiculously over-priced AND way too long. Have you also tried Tattersall plaid button down collar shirts? They have them for pretty cheap on ebay UK, in VERY classic (see Golden Era) cuts and styles. I worked as an image consultant for many years (over 10, with my own company), and if you have any questions or just want to shoot the proverbial sh*t, feel free to PM me or reply to an older post or even this one. I Totally Dig the styles Sir! Have a Great Monday!
Grenadine is the in thing, these days, but for good reason. I would never hesitate to wear one with tweed. Their texture plays nicely with such a fuzzy fabric.
I like the silk ties with the various weaves, like Grenadine, Grossgrain, Oxford, etc. And the different Grenadine weaves: fina, grossa, piccolo, prometeo. I'm learning a lot...
Man! I have gotten some Seriously gorgeous vtg sport coats over the past year or so. I NEED to take some pics and post them on here! I also have a TON of them that I need to post up to The Bay for sale; mostly 60s models that are simply too square in the shoulder for me. Grenadine HAS become kind of a thing, hasn't it though?! I mean, it is a real classic, but some people are just going bonkers over it, as if it were the last and only tie worth owning. Anyway. Yeah. It lends itself gorgeously to tweed. Rant.
I still prefer a silk knit with tweed, but a grenadine is a good second. I think the grenadine pairs better with flannel suits and jackets.
I prefer the silk and rayon ties from the '40s with my tweeds. With the right collar and proper construction of the blazer, my look could easily pass for 1940s.
Hughes & Hatcher
And this one:
Trying the Hughes & Hatcher sport coat
It's going to be rather hot today (40 degrees Celsius or more) and it was rather hot yesterday (38 degrees), but I just got a new jacket so I had to wear it of course. Luckily, it's a nice linen/cotton blend (as are the trousers). Linen is truly wonderful and has to be one of my favorite fabrics. In these climates it's indispensable if you still want to look somewhat presentable. Of course with a proper Panama hat.
At 36 degrees in the shade, it's a bit too warm for a tie (or even pocket square, really!)
Hi, Acquired this jacket about a week ago, lovely tan colour as you cant see, tailored by Stein & Bloch for Hughes & Hatcher, who where based in Pittsburgh i believe.
Union tag is 1939 i think, so a i guess it would be 40s.....would that be late or early?
These are new pics.... i did 't like the first lot.
Love that twill camelhair. Early 40's is a good bet. Great find!