Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Show us your suits

The Elizans

Familiar Face
Messages
85
Location
Southcoast, UK
Hepworths CC41 utility marked 3-piece (pristine!)

Hello!

I have been eager to post some images of my suits (I have several original 30's-40's suits) including this one (and the best by far) a post 1941 utility marked British Hepworths’ three piece. It is absolutely mint as well- I would guess never worn. I apologise about the clarity/detail of the suit in the photos; they were shot on film (not digital) as part of a photo shoot for which the subject matter was not my suit! But I think you get the idea...

The trousers are incredible; 11" at the turn-ups and the highest waist of all my suits; outside leg 45" inside, 32". The fabric feels like cashmere, the jacket is canvas lined but does not feel as though it has any horse hair padding (like my earlier suits). Jacket and waistcoat are polished cotton lined, not satin. The waistcoat itself is great! literally tacked together (to save thread on non-essential clothes?) and has not rear adjustment- damn luck it fits me, though I can never put on any weight! Historic suit, I am its trustee at the moment and feel obliged to be its curator until its my turn to pass it on…

Hepworths-suit.jpg


...and a close-up of the fabric...

Hepworths-suit2.jpg


---and the turn-ups!

Hepworths-suit3.jpg
 

Jerekson

One Too Many
Messages
1,615
Location
1935
Beautiful suit, the epitome of 40's style.

The jacket looks like a flawless fit, but I would reccomend getting the pant cuffs up a little higher. I see some break in that last picture.

Don't want that beautiful fabric dragging on the floor.
 

The Elizans

Familiar Face
Messages
85
Location
Southcoast, UK
Alterations...

Jerekson said:
Beautiful suit, the epitome of 40's style.

The jacket looks like a flawless fit, but I would reccomend getting the pant cuffs up a little higher. I see some break in that last picture.

Don't want that beautiful fabric dragging on the floor.

You're right- they are a fraction too long for me. Honestly, apart from this photo shoot and maybe one other for my next album, I've kinda decided not to wear this suit at all!- It really is completely flawless- I'll post some pics of the inside of the jacket and trousers, you'll see what I mean. The trousers have the skimpiest hem imaginable, signs of how thrifty the times were with rationed fabric and restricted stitches per inch. Like this whole suit, the structure is built on the most fastidiously cut cloth; there's not much fabric to let out anywhere!

I was speaking to a tailor here in England (Bentley’s, Portsmouth) whose father before him was a bespoke tailor in during WWII. He said that rationing of cloth even for businesses meant his family could not make enough garments to earn a living. To over come this ludicrous dilemma, people would part-pay for their clothes with their ration coupons, in turn his father would use the coupons to actually get the fabric from brokers to make their clothes!

I think it is such a historic item, it would be a shame to make any alterations- it tells a story. The buttons are hanging on by a thread, there are not even ‘button holes’ on the lapels as they were deemed non essential! I'll see if I succumb to the temptation of wearing it thought! I will air it weekly to keep the moths out!!!
 

H.Johnson

One Too Many
Messages
1,562
Location
Midlands, UK
Ben,

I've seen verifiable CC41 suits with Jackson (not 'the tailor') on a different label to the one here. These could have been wartime or any time up to the end of the clothing austerity scheme, I think?

I wonder if they used different labels at the same time, or maybe they changed to 'JtT' some time between the introduction of the CC scheme (say 1941) and 1953.

What do you think?



benstephens said:
I believe I can say it is pre 1953, as Jacksons the Tailor was taken over (or merged) with Burtons. They were a very large off the peg tailor in the North.

I feel it may be pre war, the Label has a more continental feel, but the owner was a Russian, the first outlet being set up in 1900.

Kindest Regards

Ben
 

Howard Hughes

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
Location
DOIN' THE LAMBETH WALK......OI !!!
DEMOB

The Elizans said:
Hello!

I have been eager to post some images of my suits (I have several original 30's-40's suits) including this one (and the best by far) a post 1941 utility marked British Hepworths’ three piece. It is absolutely mint as well- I would guess never worn. I apologise about the clarity/detail of the suit in the photos; they were shot on film (not digital) as part of a photo shoot for which the subject matter was not my suit! But I think you get the idea...

The trousers are incredible; 11" at the turn-ups and the highest waist of all my suits; outside leg 45" inside, 32". The fabric feels like cashmere, the jacket is canvas lined but does not feel as though it has any horse hair padding (like my earlier suits). Jacket and waistcoat are polished cotton lined, not satin. The waistcoat itself is great! literally tacked together (to save thread on non-essential clothes?) and has not rear adjustment- damn luck it fits me, though I can never put on any weight! Historic suit, I am its trustee at the moment and feel obliged to be its curator until its my turn to pass it on…

Hepworths-suit.jpg


...and a close-up of the fabric...

Hepworths-suit2.jpg


---and the turn-ups!

Hepworths-suit3.jpg

Whatto All,

Beautiful suit !!
I have the same cloth in the single breasted version, which is Demob stamped.
I think the DB version is smarter, whereas the SB can be worn more casually, open neck shirt, collars outside lapels, etc..
Is yours two or three piece.
Corker.

Toodleoo
HH
 

resortes805

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,019
Location
SoCal
The Elizans said:
I think it is such a historic item, it would be a shame to make any alterations- it tells a story.
/QUOTE]

True, but this is your suit now, you deserve to look your best in it! One thing we do to preserve the integrity of the suit when raising the inseam is to adamantly request that the extra fabric be folded under; never allow a tailor to actually cut vintage fabric! That way if you ever part ways with your suit, you can always return it to it's original state if the new owner has longer legs than you.
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
resortes805 said:
...when raising the inseam, ... adamantly request that the extra fabric be folded under ... That way if you ever part ways with your suit, you can always return it to it's original state if the new owner has longer legs than you.

Yes! Or you could let the new, taller owner do it himself. That extra fabric could make a positive difference in the price you'd fetch from a buyer. Less extra hem = lower potential value for the suit.

.
 

GBR

One of the Regulars
Messages
288
Location
UK
The Elizans said:
Hello!

I have been eager to post some images of my suits (I have several original 30's-40's suits) including this one (and the best by far) a post 1941 utility marked British Hepworths’ three piece. It is absolutely mint as well- I would guess never worn. I apologise about the clarity/detail of the suit in the photos; they were shot on film (not digital) as part of a photo shoot for which the subject matter was not my suit! But I think you get the idea...

The trousers are incredible; 11" at the turn-ups and the highest waist of all my suits; outside leg 45" inside, 32". The fabric feels like cashmere, the jacket is canvas lined but does not feel as though it has any horse hair padding (like my earlier suits). Jacket and waistcoat are polished cotton lined, not satin. The waistcoat itself is great! literally tacked together (to save thread on non-essential clothes?) and has not rear adjustment- damn luck it fits me, though I can never put on any weight! Historic suit, I am its trustee at the moment and feel obliged to be its curator until its my turn to pass it on…

]

To add to another thread can you tell me what pockets both trousers and jacket (inside ) have please? This to add to what we know about pockets and dating.
 

Forgotten Man

One Too Many
Messages
1,944
Location
City Dump 32 E. River Sutton Place.
The Elizans said:
You're right- they are a fraction too long for me. Honestly, apart from this photo shoot and maybe one other for my next album, I've kinda decided not to wear this suit at all!- It really is completely flawless- I'll post some pics of the inside of the jacket and trousers, you'll see what I mean. The trousers have the skimpiest hem imaginable, signs of how thrifty the times were with rationed fabric and restricted stitches per inch. Like this whole suit, the structure is built on the most fastidiously cut cloth; there's not much fabric to let out anywhere!

I was speaking to a tailor here in England (Bentley’s, Portsmouth) whose father before him was a bespoke tailor in during WWII. He said that rationing of cloth even for businesses meant his family could not make enough garments to earn a living. To over come this ludicrous dilemma, people would part-pay for their clothes with their ration coupons, in turn his father would use the coupons to actually get the fabric from brokers to make their clothes!

I think it is such a historic item, it would be a shame to make any alterations- it tells a story. The buttons are hanging on by a thread, there are not even ‘button holes’ on the lapels as they were deemed non essential! I'll see if I succumb to the temptation of wearing it thought! I will air it weekly to keep the moths out!!!

Being a purist of sorts, and appreciate original clothes that haven't been touched such as this, I would have to say you should size the pants a bit so you can wear them. It would drive me nuts to have a suit in my closet that I don't wear... especially one as nice as that! A suit should be enjoyed and worn... I'd keep one like that for special occasions and enjoy it. Now, if you want a museum, display it and protect it... but, I'd have a few size adjustments and enjoy it... you only live once and this suit has found you so, it would make it happy to be worn and shown off I'm sure.

Just my two bits, ;)
 

reetpleat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,681
Location
Seattle
I am with FM. It is like a beautiful car or motorcycle that is never ridden. Sure, there are the occasional pieces or cars that should be in a museum. maybe Clyde Barrows last suit.

But otherwise, unless you are doing something stupid like cutting the inseam to 25 inches or changing the style drastically, or dancing in it till it is destroyed.

It isn't like you are ruining it. If you can wear it, but the next guy two inches taller can't, big deal It will still fit a guy shorter than you or your size.

Besides that, it is just clothing. As much as we love it, it is just old clothes.
 

The Elizans

Familiar Face
Messages
85
Location
Southcoast, UK
In response to everyone!

Wow! what a response!

Firstly- yes, it is a three piece- jacket, waistcoat, trousers.
Secondly, the fabric inside the pockets of the jacket is thick black cotton twill, on the trousers a coarse linen-like fabric. I will post some detailed pics. when I have the time to take them.

Finally- you're all right! I'll get myself down to my tailor and get those trousers sympathetically altered to fit and enjoy it on those special occasions! Here's to a happy relationship!
T.E.
 

Howard Hughes

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
Location
DOIN' THE LAMBETH WALK......OI !!!
ALTERATIONs

Whatto All,
Just want to reiterate what a couple of the guys have already said, you can get the trousers altered without the need to cut.
Please ensure your tailor understands this.
In fact, it's an easy enough job to do yourself.
Never done it before ?, here's your chance to learn something new.
Always use a pressing cloth with wool clothes !!!
If you permantly shorten the strides, then the jacket will be too long for a shorter chap in future.

Enjoy the suit, wear it with pride.
It's a beaut !!

Toodleoo
HH
 

Sir RBH

A-List Customer
Messages
314
Location
Herefordshire, England
I have so many suits that i buy and although having basically the right fit, they need alterations.. Through many years trial and error Im getting there and trousers are always quite easy but Jackets.. I steer well clear of..

RBH
 

Howard Hughes

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
Location
DOIN' THE LAMBETH WALK......OI !!!
HICKEY FREEMAN SUIT

wesleywinfield
th_ebay001.jpg
[/IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG]

Here are a few pics of a suit I am trying to date more accurately, in order to list correctly on EBAY.
I have already discussed this suit in another thread, but have only justbeen able to supply pics.
The fabric, in my opinion is Prussian blue, and is much more dark/subtle than the close up suggests.
It is a Hickey-Freeman suit made for Woolf Bros.
I would date it to between 1930 and 1950, but American suits are defiantely not my speciality, and would appreciate any help in this department.
The fly zipper is TALON make, with alarge V running through the inscribed name.
No Union labels, but there has been one on the reverse of the watch pocket at some time.
Many thanks for looking.
Toodleoo
HH
 
Howard Hughes said:
ebay001.jpg


ebay002.jpg


ebay003.jpg


ebay004.jpg


ebay006.jpg


It is a Hickey-Freeman suit made for Woolf Bros.
I would date it to between 1930 and 1950, but American suits are defiantely not my speciality, and would appreciate any help in this department.
The fly zipper is TALON make, with alarge V running through the inscribed name.
No Union labels, but there has been one on the reverse of the watch pocket at some time.


A little help with the pics, Howard ;)

I would quite confidently date the suit to the early to middle 1940s, due to the lapel shape and button stance. Let's see what Marc and others think. I bet if the union label was still present you'd find it was the "Copyright 1939" model. I sold a suit with very similar fabric a few years ago (found in a charity shop in Lafayette, IN for $9.99). It was made by the International Tailoring Corp. for Ralph Kindig, and was dated January 1940.

I like the suit, and it fits you pretty perfect. Maybe a little big in the shoulders.

bk
 

Howard Hughes

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
Location
DOIN' THE LAMBETH WALK......OI !!!
THANKS

Thank you Baron for the help with the pictures, I need all the help I can get. And also for your comments on the suit itself.
The suit is a very "snug" fit on me now.
I could wear the trousers comfortably, the jacket uncomfortably, and the waistcoat if I had a few ribs removed.
I can do the waistcoat up, but would not be able to move or sit down.
I hope to list it on Ebay this weekend if anyone is interested, it will be in the "Men's 1940's", along with a few other bits and pieces, my user name is mrcrab12
I/we spent a fortune on vintage clothing yesterday, so I need to contribute to Mr. Goodwin's pension fund as soon as possible.
I picked up a "RADIAC" shirt, which is proudly labelled as "100% NYLON",
possibly one of the first commercially available NYLON garments, (research needed).
I wish you all a pleasant weekend.
Toodleoo.
HH
 

yoonie

Familiar Face
Messages
65
Location
NYC
Howard Hughes said:
Thank you Baron for the help with the pictures, I need all the help I can get. And also for your comments on the suit itself.
The suit is a very "snug" fit on me now.
I could wear the trousers comfortably, the jacket uncomfortably, and the waistcoat if I had a few ribs removed.
I can do the waistcoat up, but would not be able to move or sit down.
I hope to list it on Ebay this weekend if anyone is interested, it will be in the "Men's 1940's", along with a few other bits and pieces, my user name is mrcrab12
I/we spent a fortune on vintage clothing yesterday, so I need to contribute to Mr. Goodwin's pension fund as soon as possible.
I picked up a "RADIAC" shirt, which is proudly labelled as "100% NYLON",
possibly one of the first commercially available NYLON garments, (research needed).
I wish you all a pleasant weekend.
Toodleoo.
HH

I hope you won't be offended if I respond in the voice of my favored tailors (old, Italian men from New York City. They know how to take instructions, but will never let you look bad. On the other hand, politeness disappears around the 2nd meeting).

That suit is too loose in the ass (quiet, children. I know what i said)! Though, to tell the truth, that's only even worth pointing out because the rest of the suit fits SO well.

I feel like many modern tailors don't know how to properly deal with functional pleats, so I would try to be picky if I was you.
 

Howard Hughes

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
Location
DOIN' THE LAMBETH WALK......OI !!!
SUIT FIT

Whatto Voonie/All.
Thanks for the kind words concerning my pert derriere.
Not sure which picture you are looking at to see it though.
I'm afraid the suit doesn't fit me quite so well these days, and is therefor currently for sale on EBAY UK under my moniker, mrcrab12.
Toodleoo
HH
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,582
Messages
3,041,246
Members
52,951
Latest member
zibounou
Top