Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Stretch or (egad!) shrink?

Woodfluter

Practically Family
Messages
784
Location
Georgia
Hello folks, new in town, breaking out of lurker mode, looks like my kind of place.

But getting to the point...

Q: Should I stretch or shrink?

I've been a longtime hat wearer, since the late 1960's, and unfortunately an in-between size. Twixt 7-3/8 and 7-1/2, or roughly 59 and 60 metric. In general I have gotten 7-3/8 and worked on it to stretch it to size. I won't go into my less-successful ventures, but the usual procedure I've followed is to wet the lower portion of the crown felt and put it on my head (a very accurate but somewhat painful hat stretcher) and jam it down over those bones at the back of one's head, and pull down to the eyebrows. And eventually, work the fingers under one side, then the other, pulling gingerly while being careful not to exceed the tensile strength of sweatband or stiches. Carry on until dryness or intermittently for a number of hours.

This sort of works. But with the passage of time, reshrinkage can occur, depending on the quality of the hat and atmospheric conditions and moon phases. And sometimes the crown shape suffers, alas. Taper can set in - the lower part fits right but "geez, I really liked it better when it was more straight-sided".

So...recently bought an Akubra Banjo Paterson (as per my present icon, ignoring the dog). Got it in 60, not having read here that Akubras just might run a tad large. Well, great hat but just not quite a perfect fit. Didn't encounter stiff breezes first times out, but I knew what could happen. What I was seeking, being decidedly dolicephaic (a long oval), is some fore-and-aft spring so it would clamp on tight in extremis but not notice pressure if I pushed it up a bit. This is to be an outdoor, everyday hat.

So, I approached this from the other side of the equation. Spray bottle, pat moisture only in at lower part of crown and inner edge of brim, dry of excess, repeat until reasonable degree of saturation. Then I hit it with a hair dryer. For about an hour. My logic was (please feel free to correct me!) this is made of hair, and yes, it's compacted hair and can't dissapate heat as quickly, but still less potential for damage than steaming. Kept moving over the wetted portion, with fingers in the way so discomfort would warn me of impending over-heating. From previous experience with deliberately shrinking wool and cotton, I knew most of the shrinkage would occur at the end of the process, under higher temperature, and at the very end of the drying process. Still, I had to do this through two campaigns to get what I wanted.

End result: Best fitting hat I own. Allowed final (tiny bit!) of drying to take place on my head over period of hours. But kept at the dryer until it seemed past dry. But it is now pretty nearly exactly in between 59 and 60. Have to say the Heritage grade bunny felt is really resistant to shrinkage! I don't think it would be possible to shrink it more than a half size.

Now for the caveats: I kept the Barramundi fishskin band moist by repeatedly wetting it during the process. But on the positive side, no wrinkling and no bunching of the sweatband. And no damage at all to the hatband.

So folks, I have a Federation IV Deluxe on order from Hats Direct. In 60, expected mid-April. What do you think? Should I count on repeating on my success, or is there some better way?

Any suggestions appreciated!

- Bill
 

Stoney

Practically Family
Messages
977
Location
Currently on the East Coast
Shrinking to fit works better than stretching to fit.

What you did worked so why not do it again. You can't really argue with success. One note though. You can shrink the sweatband without shrinking the felt from the outside. This approach will ensure that the outside of the crown is a consistent diameter. Hat Direct has sweatband shrinking directions on their site.

Welcome to the lounge. ;)
 

surely

A-List Customer
Messages
499
Location
The Greater NW
Welcome to an emerging hat scientist.

What I've found to work well is to wet the hat down and then put it in the microwave, high for 10 min.:rolleyes:
 

Stoney

Practically Family
Messages
977
Location
Currently on the East Coast
The microwave method does work. You do have to use caution, I cooked a sweatband in less than 3 minutes. My last microwave attempt. I also killed a vintage Borsalino using the wet sweatband on the lampshade method.This is why I prefer the hair dryer and eyeball the sweatband dampness as you go method of the three. You seem to have more control over the process.
 

Woodfluter

Practically Family
Messages
784
Location
Georgia
Thanks for the comments, folks!

Stoney, thank you for directing me to the instructions on shrinking the sweatband - I'll check that - but was looking to slightly reduce the circumference of the hat itself. Yes, I agree that the hair dryer method appears more controllable than the microwave option. For anyone considering this, just make sure to block out an hour or more uninterrupted by your sweetie wanting to use that appliance!

I belatedly saw that someone else descrobed this method:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=28271&highlight=sweat+band

Obsessive-compulsive errata: I meant to write "doliocephalic", but had one too many glasses of wine at the time.

- Bill
 

animator

One of the Regulars
Messages
231
Location
Seattle
Welcome Woodfluter -

You put a lot of thought and work into this! You may have to turn your garage into a hat science lab.

I have an "egg oval" head (I probably shouldn't admit that publicly) and haven't had much luck finding hats off the shelf that fit right, so I had Art send a conformer and now making the hat to fit my head is his problem.

Anyway, since your local, if I ever need a hat resized I'm bringing it to your science garage.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,492
Messages
3,038,118
Members
52,883
Latest member
ALittleBitOfCompany
Top