The basics - Shirt measurements

[Senator Jack]

Having just received another custom-made suit that I have to send back, I want to start with the basics, and the basics are shirt and trousers. But let's start with the shirt, and the basic business shirt at that.

I'm flummoxed as to why this is hit and miss. As I stated in another thread, I ordered a shirt from MyTailor.com and it had low armholes. Not terribly low, but low enough to think if it weren't a hassle to send it back to Hong Kong to get it fixed, I would have. The shirts I got from Brooks Brothers were right on the money as far as measurements are concerned, but, unfortunately, they didn't hold up to cleanings. When I ordered the shirt from MyTailor I took the exact measurements from the BB shirt, yet they still didn't exactly replicate it. The answer I got is that MT cuts their shirts 'conservatively', whatever that means. So as a service to everyone here who is thinking of ordering suits online, I think it would help to get a list of measurements needed for a perfect fitting shirt. Follow-up threads can focus on trousers, jackets, vest.

Basic shirt measurements:

Neck - Circumference of neck just at notch of throat/chest.

Question: How much more circumference should there be as far as material is concerned? What is comfortable for average man? If neck circumference is exactly 15.5 inches, what should the measurement be between button and buttonhole around collar 15.75? 16?

Half-shoulder - This is base of neck to end of shoulder. Personally, I think this should be a tight fit. If measurement is 6.5", then 'to sleeve' measurement should be no more than 6.75". Please feel free to correct me on this.

Across back - This is a difficult measurement because tailors seem to have a different idea as to where the back ends. I consider it to be back of pit to back of pit across back. Again, the shirt should only be about .25" wider than this measurement

Lower collar to hem - A tough measurement because the shirt is going to be tucked in. I should think this measurement is from the top of back to lower small of back. Finished shirt should be no more than 3" longer than this measurement.

Top of sleeve to end of cuff - This should be exact. With arm down, the cuff should rest at about an 1/8" past the wrist.

Inside sleeve measurement - Here's where the online tailors fail. They never ask for this measurement. I should think it's from middle of pit to where wrist joins hand. Finished cuff should extend 1/8" past this point.

Wrist circumference - Seemingly another difficult spot. How loose should the cuff be. 'Watch wrist' has to be looser than non-watch list, but by how much? .5"? 1"?

High Chest - Theoretically, this should be an extension of the measurement from back. But because of the way shirts are constructed, it isn't. This is why I find general chest measurements (42, 44, etc.,) to be useless. I should think the right measurement is from back of armpit to back of armpit at high point across chest. (Measurinf from back of armpit takes into account the sides of the chest.

Low Chest - This the measurement from back of armpit across nipples

Waist - Circumference around waist. Shirt should narrow here.

Hips - Finished shirt should flare here.

Pit to hip - An important measurement that no one asks for. I should think shirts would fit better if this measurement were taken into account.

Armpit circumference - I've given this measurement to tailors but it seems to be disregarded. Why?


I suppose my real question here is, how much extra material is needed in each area for comfort. For example, if a man has a 40" upper chest all the way around under armpits, should the shirt be finished at 40.25"? 40.50"? 40.75"?

All right, I've given the basics here, and I'm opening the floo for discussion.

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Funnily enough i had the same experience with an online asian tailor. The "conservative" cut thing. I found that a friendly - well not so friendly - call to them explaining the fact that i was not inserting my vanity measurements was all it took. Aftre that they cut the shirts exactly to my specifications ... They're so used to people giving them measurements that are 2 inches too small in every dimension that they assume everyone is doing it. This is a wrong assumption, of course, but clearly one that works for them more often than not.

bk

 

[Maj.Nick Danger]

Wow, ya shoulda been a tailor Jack.

I don't imagine even the most pricey and meticulous clothiers today would go to such great lengths! (And widths and heights and etc.)

But in answer to your question, I think it's all up to the end users personal tastes and comfort requirements. Personally, I think about 3/4 of an inch of space in the collar and the body is comfortable without being excessive. Sleeves of course vary from one individual to another, but should just touch where the hand widens from the wrist. Also, I suppose every individual tailor has their own ideas as well.

 

[Senator Jack]

That's what I can't understand, Baron. The online form offers the choice to take measurements from your best fitting shirt, and that's what I did. And when I measure the new shirt to the BB shirt, the measurements do seem to jibe, so I can't figure out where it's screwed up. But now that you've explained the psychology of vanity measurements, it makes sense. Something to take into account, if I should look for another online tailor.

I just got two suits from MyCustomTailor and though I had three conversations with the owner, the suits are huge. The jackets don't narrow at the waist as they should, and there's too much material under the arms. As for the pants, the thighs are way too wide. He's already made one suit for me that fit well, (though it was after I sent it back) so I can't understand how they screwed up these two suits. I even sent them pictures of how the suit should look! Perhaps this online tailoring is too difficult. Too bad, except for the buttons (Why can't they just sew on quality buttons any more?) the suits are really beautiful.

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[jake_fink]

Senator Jack,

Have you posted pictures of the suits you ordered, the one that worked out well in particular? Did you send the suits back for alterations or did you have them done nearer to home?