Fletch
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This Wednesday's New York Times reflected on the uniquely New York, and classically male, rite once known as the beefsteak party, beefsteak dinner, or simply the beefsteak. This was the good-natured feeding frenzy immortalized by Joseph Mitchell in The New Yorker in 1939 and later included in his fascinating anthology, Up in the Old Hotel.
In its heyday in the 19teens, a good beefsteak comprised the following ingredients:
-1 political, fraternal, or other club
-Lots of shell strip steaks, lamb chops, ground sirloin trimmin's, and bacon-wrapped kidneys, all broiled in an iron box cooker
-Sufficient beer, and then some, to wash down same, served in half-gallon growlers
-Butchers' aprons and caps to protect the celebrants, and brown butcher paper to protect the general surroundings
-Absolutely no tableware, dishware, glassware, napkins, side dishes - or, ideally, tables, chairs, or ladies
The Times points out that the beefsteak tradition disappeared from New York City as machine politics and community organizations began to lose their importance. Today it is strictly limited to North Jersey and to workingclass culture such as union locals.
The Big Apple, a NY pop culture blog, has more on the beefsteak phenomenon, but states categorically that it has "died out." Perhaps in the city. But once upon a time all walks of life were involved, such as these Wall Street traders gathered at the relatively refined precincts of Keen's Chophouse in 1938. (Look, they've got tablecloths, knives, forks...)
What a way to eat meat, though. James Lileks would doubtless approve, as would Kreuz's and Smitty's, the BBQ minimalists of Texas.
If I could, I'd throw the entire Lounge a beefsteak. Gals, guys, Dems, Pubs, whoever - all you'd need bring is your appetite and your second-best duds, plus lots of stories, songs and laughter.
In its heyday in the 19teens, a good beefsteak comprised the following ingredients:
-1 political, fraternal, or other club
-Lots of shell strip steaks, lamb chops, ground sirloin trimmin's, and bacon-wrapped kidneys, all broiled in an iron box cooker
-Sufficient beer, and then some, to wash down same, served in half-gallon growlers
-Butchers' aprons and caps to protect the celebrants, and brown butcher paper to protect the general surroundings
-Absolutely no tableware, dishware, glassware, napkins, side dishes - or, ideally, tables, chairs, or ladies
The Times points out that the beefsteak tradition disappeared from New York City as machine politics and community organizations began to lose their importance. Today it is strictly limited to North Jersey and to workingclass culture such as union locals.
The Big Apple, a NY pop culture blog, has more on the beefsteak phenomenon, but states categorically that it has "died out." Perhaps in the city. But once upon a time all walks of life were involved, such as these Wall Street traders gathered at the relatively refined precincts of Keen's Chophouse in 1938. (Look, they've got tablecloths, knives, forks...)
What a way to eat meat, though. James Lileks would doubtless approve, as would Kreuz's and Smitty's, the BBQ minimalists of Texas.
If I could, I'd throw the entire Lounge a beefsteak. Gals, guys, Dems, Pubs, whoever - all you'd need bring is your appetite and your second-best duds, plus lots of stories, songs and laughter.
