The Deck Jacket thread.

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by breezer, Mar 10, 2021.

  1. breezer

    breezer Practically Family

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    Location:
    Scotland
    DSC_8009.jpg Ok folks lets talk about deck jackets. I've been on the deck jacket journey for around 7 years, and I've pitched in my thoughts on more than a few threads here. But it would be good to pull our resources and have a ongoing discussion about brands, fits and of course the history of this wonderful jacket.

    So the N1 is probably the best place to start, but I welcome comments and information about all the varieties. My current jacket is a navy N1 by Houston. Its size is around 42', P to P is around 23.5, and it wears big on me.....plenty of room for layers, loose enough to move my arms around. Its very warm and comfortable. Recently I parted ways with my RMC N1, size 38, an incredible jacket. As I was parceling it up to take to the post office my partner said 'oh you looked great in that jacket'.....but I was committed, as great as it was, it was not comfortable to wear. Too tight around the shoulders, and I would never wear it riding my bike or even driving, I couldn't move properly in it. I hadn't worn it for a while so I thought lets get it sold and free ups funds for a new one.

    So thats where I am. Thinking about which direction to go. I want a deck jacket, maybe an N1, definitely without USN stencil. Preferably green or khaki. But I'm open to navy blue as well.

    So my first thought was to look at a Mister Freedom 'Blouson De Quart'. But after much deliberation and back and forth with a seller I decided against it. I was reading a thread by the jacket's designer, Mr Christopher Loiron, and he stated the jacket didn't suit everyone's body shape. I studied pictures of him modelling it. I looked at other pictures of people wearing them and I realised it probably wasn't going to suit me. And anyway I wasn't overly keen on the hook fasteners. Its a shame because I love what Mr Freedom does and I wanted to own a jacket by them.

    So that got me thinking. Depending on the brand, one really has to find the N1 that fits your own body shape and style. I'm 6 feet, slim, 40' chest. My current deck jacket probably fits like a deck jacket should - loose to allow for layers and physical work. But I wanted something a bit more fitted, essentially sized between my Houston and RMC, which would be P to P of 23. Remember with N1's, especially the more expensive ones, the lining is incredibly thick.

    Last year I bought a navy demotex Buzz Rickson in Size L. The fit was horrible and I sold it on straight away. The arms were baggy, the fit was poor. Possibly I could size down to an M. I followed that with a Freewheelers N1. It was an older model from a few seasons ago, the one with a wool collar. Tagged as a 40 it was a smaller than my RMC 38. I sold it on.

    So maybe I need to look at one of cheaper brands.....Bronson? Or maybe an RMC N1 in a 40? Or maybe an Iron Heart? I especially liked the civilian model the brought out a few seasons ago. When I was down at Aero a while back I tried on a Pike Bros, but I was swamped by an M and wasn't overly impressed with its look. RMC do a really nice looking zip deck jacket, as do BR, but as I mentioned above I'm not keen on the hook fasteners that you see on some models. But if one pops up in a 40' I might pull the trigger. But my experience with the Houston tells me that price isn't everything - I think I paid about £100 for it and have worn the hell out of it, but the budget is up to £450. And I am also contemplating buying new so at least I can send back if the fit is not satisfactory. I would prefer pre owned, being a tight scotsman, but its not worked so a change of tack is probably necessary. I was on the Bill Kelso site and they do one for around £450, or maybe a BR in an M? Or I could wait forever for a pre owned RMC to turn up in a 40, especially one with out the USN stencil.

    Anyways - if you are on the N1 journey post up below.
     
  2. Blackadder

    Blackadder My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    My 2 cents,
    1) There are quite a lot of brands making or have reproduced the N-1, some faithful repros, some with a twist more notable brands apart from usual suspects named by the OP almost all of the Amekaji brands have made one. There are the Pherrow's, At Last & Co, Tenderloin, Trophy Clothing, Colimbo, the Few and Stevenson Overall (not Japanese). Even denim brands like Momotaro and Samurai have their own remakes of the N-1;
    2) as far as RM and BR are concerned, the Navy blue version is generally smaller than the Khaki ones;
    3) BR's demotex version has longer sleeves than the regular version;
    4) FW's N-1 is a tight fit, slimmer than RM which in turn is slimmer than BR;
    5) often times people suggest getting an original but the truth is it is very difficult to find one in a good condition and the right size. A lot of the original N-1s are missing patches of alpaca and/or have a torn shell. While it may still look cool in that condition, it is not going to keep you as warm with a heavily worn, basically shaved alpaca lining. You may as well go for an original A-2 deck.
     
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  3. Morecowbell

    Morecowbell New in Town

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    Fishers, IN
    This is my kind of forum....
     
  4. Another Hoosier....
     
    BobJ likes this.
  5. breezer

    breezer Practically Family

    Messages:
    760
    Location:
    Scotland
    thanks Blackadder, this is exactly the kind of info I was hoping for. With regards to BR's.....yeh the blue Demotex definitely had longer sleeves.....I'm sure I read somewhere the sleeves should come up short because its a work jacket, but maybe thats rubbish. Also aren't the William Gibson versions cut slimmer? In my experience the Real McCoy seemed to be a slimmer cut.
     
  6. l0fielectronic

    l0fielectronic Practically Family

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    Location:
    UK
    I have an early Pike Bros and a Bronson. I like both and while I got the Pike Bros first and then bought a Bronson I ended up keeping both. Like you I think I wanted a more 'fitted' version that the one I had.

    The Pike Bros is big, warm and great if I'm going to be outside working in winter or hanging around outside and its very comfortable moving about, its great and my go to jacket if I'm going to be out in the snow.

    The Bronson is a trim fit on me, looks a lot 'smarter' and is a warmer jacket than I expected it to be given the lining isn't pure wool like the Pike Bros.

    For the money the Bronson is a great deal. Its a trim fitting jacket in the shoulder area for me but I'm about at the edge of their sizing.
     
    CatsCan, 4444Design and Edward like this.
  7. breezer

    breezer Practically Family

    Messages:
    760
    Location:
    Scotland

    Good info thank you! I'm leaning towards the Bronson. Here's the Bill Kelso version I mentioned above

    • 13-ounce jungle cloth shell
    • Alpaca-lined collar
    • Liner: Pile 50% alpaca and 50% wool
    • Zipper and button-through fly front closure (Japan made Talon)
    • Plain cuff with knitted wristlet inside (100% Wool)
    • Drawstring bottom
    • Buttons, urea

    n-1-od3-front.jpg
     
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  8. Edward

    Edward Bartender

    Messages:
    22,705
    Location:
    London, UK
    This is really useful information. I've long had the impression based on the few I've handled that the Pike option may lose out to the next price band up in terms of accuracy (though the most common criticism I read of them is that they are "overbuilt" compared to the originals), but it's often less obvious what the difference between mid-price and more affordable options is. Seems like Pike v Bronson is a choice based as much on what you're after as anything else. I like the look of a lot of Bronson stuff, but they always seem to hovver about a size under what I'd need at the top end of their range. The Pike N1 I have handled; can't make any claims for the 'living history' crowd, but for the hot rod set, it's an excellent, short Winter jacket. Bit torn between that and their B15A...
     
  9. Bfd70

    Bfd70 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Location:
    Chicago
    I’ve owned a PB.
    Nice jacket at the price point. Very utilitarian cut.
    Currently own an IH. Much nicer. Better cut. I think the price is a little ridiculous and would prefer alpaca in the sleeves as opposed to quilted. They do tend to pop up used pretty often.
     
  10. breezer

    breezer Practically Family

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  11. Blackadder

    Blackadder My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    As said the Navy blue is smaller (slimmer and slightly shorter) than the khaki but slightly longer sleeves.
    サイズ (cm) 胸囲 肩幅 着丈 袖丈 裾幅
    Khaki
    34 110.0 41.0 66.0 59.0 50.0
    36 114.0 43.0 69.0 61.0 52.0
    38 118.0 46.0 70.0 62.0 54.0
    40 122.0 48.0 73.0 64.0 56.0
    42 128.0 50.0 74.0 65.0 58.0
    44 132.0 53.0 75.0 65.0 60.0
    46 136.0 54.0 76.0 66.0 62.0
    Navy
    34 102.0 40.0 66.0 62.0 50.0
    36 106.0 42.0 68.0 64.0 52.0
    38 110.0 44.0 69.0 65.0 54.0
    40 114.0 46.0 71.0 66.0 56.0
    42 118.0 48.0 72.0 67.0 58.0
    44 122.0 50.0 73.0 68.0 60.0
    https://www.realmccoys-nagoya.co.jp/?pid=78437455
    https://www.realmccoys-nagoya.co.jp/?pid=62590593
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2021
  12. Blackadder

    Blackadder My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Location:
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    The regular cheaper BR N-1 is also similar to the RM i.e. given same tag size, Khaki is bigger than Navy. I am not sure about the demotex ones though.
    I own both Navy and Khaki RM in size 36 and a BR regular version in size 36 Navy.
     
  13. Blackadder

    Blackadder My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    Incidentally, a warning to those who try to buy RM 2nd hand online, there are some fake RM deck vests coming out of China. I have yet seen a fake RM N-1 but I would not be surprised if there are.
     
  14. breezer

    breezer Practically Family

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    760
    Location:
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    interesting!
     
  15. SilverKast

    SilverKast New in Town

    Messages:
    31
    Location:
    Canada
    I have the Iron Heart as well, and I really like it a lot. However, it is a trim fit. I'm usually an XL in coats, or a 46 with wide shoulders and narrow waist. With the IH I had to size up to a XXL in the N1, but the fit is spot on for what I like in a coat. Other than that it's pretty much as advertised, although a little on the pricey side. But it looks like it will last me for as long as I look after it as the build quality is top notch.
     
  16. TMP

    TMP Familiar Face

    Messages:
    68
    I don't have experience with the brands you mentioned but if I could throw another option out there - Spiewak. Most are made in the USA and they are a well made jacket. The inside of the sleeves are quilted rather than wool lined, but otherwise they are a pretty good replica as well they should be since Spiewak did some of the originals. For some reason they seem to pop up fairly frequently on https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/. I'm about the same size chest, maybe 41" and I went for a Medium. It's pretty fitted, but that is what I wanted. I'll try to get a picture of it zipped up if you want.
     
    breezer likes this.
  17. hesalitedome

    hesalitedome New in Town

    Messages:
    17
    RMC N-1 SPL (size 44)

    upload_2021-3-11_13-30-48.png
     
  18. breezer

    breezer Practically Family

    Messages:
    760
    Location:
    Scotland
    the blue looks killer.......best looking N1 for me. But I couldn't live with the back stencil. Interesting that the different colour is a different cut.
     

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