Toppers Unite

[CraigEster]

An excellent and highly informative account, Stefan. Thanks for posting it.

I'll be re-reading it a lot while keeping an eye out for a copy of the Huber book.

It's only in French sadly, but modern translators are pretty good.

I suggest writing to Mr. Saleron, one of the authors. He should know where you can get a copy. Email him in French. I suggest using DeepL, an AI translator. It's more competent than Google's translator and the free version will let you compose an email. Back-translate to make sure the meaning is preserved.

I believe the book was re-printed to raise money for a Sarreguemines community group or association of some sort.

 

[steur]

An excellent and highly informative account, Stefan. Thanks for posting it.

I'll be re-reading it a lot while keeping an eye out for a copy of the Huber book.

Thank you, Steve. It is certainly wordt a read and if you can pick up a copy it is well worth it for a topper collector like yourself.

 

[steur]

There's a part in the book that goes over how secretive Huber was. One of the rare extant records from his factory shows that he bought lemon juice but insisted it be labeled as acetic acid. I don't think any of his employees even knew what they were using.

I've written to Mr. Saleron. His co-author was the one more knowledgeable on the dye portion. He sadly passed, if memory serves me right, in 2020.

Part of the difficulty in researching hat plush is the scarcity of good sources. Huber's factory closed in the early 1930s and was then bombed in WWII. His descendants shared what they had with the authors but it wasn't much. Mr. Hemmert was actually the archivist for Sarreguemines and had access to the best trove of information.

Natural dyes were used until the end of the best plush, which probably came with the closing of Huber's factory. There's a good passage in 'Makers of Distinction: Suppliers to the Town and Country' (by Thomas Girtin, published in 1959) which describes the closing days of silk hatting in London. The era's plush was described as "slatey" and unimpressive. The hatter interviewed went as far as to pull some plush from an Edwardian hat to show the difference.

I've been researching the dyeing and manufacturing of plush for some years. It's a bit of a black art (I suppose literally given the color of the plush). Even if we had a perfect recipe handed down through time, it would only be half the battle. The actual handling of the silk is a developed skill like any other artform. So much is left up to intuition; a finely-honed "sixth sense" even.

The weaving matter is still difficult as well. Hatter's plush was the best of the best, although all the hogwash passed around in London is depressingly far from the truth. They ignore hard work and mastery then substitute in myth and magical looms. Hat plush is something many times more valuable and special than magic, it's simply good and competently made.

Every tiny step was mastered by generations of people that dedicated their professional lives to developing their craft. Huber stood on the shoulders of giants, having come from the Massing Bros. company. He would also have been nothing without his weavers and silk suppliers. The looms mentioned are the two-piece type invented by J. B. Martin, but they were modified by Huber. He also invented a special weave, which everyone then copied.

The connection to this generational knowledge was broken with the fall of plush, and now we start from the beginning. This is why supporting crafts is so important. Once it's gone, it's completely gone.

This is what I took away from Huber's story and from Borsalino as well: it's all about the quality of the materials used and the craftmanship of the people involved. Borsalino tried at one point to source their own fur, but found they couldn't do it. They still had to rely on what they could get from Belgium, even at the high prices that made them try for themselves in the first place.
You rightly point out Huber came from a tradition in the trade and the region had thousands of skilled weavers. France was the place to find the best silk at the time, so all the pieces were there to take it to the next level. And apprantely he did.

 

[CraigEster]

This is what I took away from Huber's story and from Borsalino as well: it's all about the quality of the materials used and the craftmanship of the people involved. Borsalino tried at one point to source their own fur, but found they couldn't do it. They still had to rely on what they could get from Belgium, even at the high prices that made them try for themselves in the first place.
You rightly point out Huber came from a tradition in the trade and the region had thousands of skilled weavers. France was the place to find the best silk at the time, so all the pieces were there to take it to the next level. And apprantely he did.

Huber was a notable figure in the hat plush world. There's an 1880s US Senate tariff committee hearing transcript in which Robert Dunlap mentions he used Huber's plush. Somewhere I have saved scans of Huber's ads in some hatting periodicals.

I have some reservations with the biography, but they're all technical. Somewhere in the book is actually a description of plush production taken from a magazine called Les Grandes Usines de Turgan. I combed through every issue I could find and there's no mention of Huber or plush. It's likely that the factory tour transcript was misattributed or there's a more expansive issue stored somewhere.

The actual factory tour describes a facility using natural dyes, but the authors seem inclined to push the idea Huber secretly developed synthetic dyes and/or used them. There's a lot of local excitement that can be felt in the book, as there should be. However, the book definitely isn't a dye manual.

That said, I love this book dearly. It's by far the best source on plush and is leagues ahead of other books. The authors did their best and got everything right; it's their inferences that are shakey.

If compared to a certain master hatter's grasp on plush as described in a certain well-circulated magazine — the man is the oft cited authority on toppers presently — these two local historians are a world apart. The Brits really want to worship those looms but it's only the first step.

Some of the experts in these fields number in the double or even single digits globally.

 

[steur]

This popped up on youtube for me recently even though it's two years old already. An interview with Colin Rosie, hatseller at Spitalfields market in London. Interesting bloke for sure. Specialised in selling large size silk top hats with even larger price tags. The story of the last loom in Lyon pops up again.

 

[Steve1857]

This popped up on youtube for me recently even though it's two years old already. An interview with Colin Rosie, hatseller at Spitalfields market in London. Interesting bloke for sure. Specialised in selling large size silk top hats with even larger price tags. The story of the last loom in Lyon pops up again.

A tall hat deserves a tall story.

Thanks for sharing this Stefan. I'm going to show it to my daughters. I don't think they'll be laughing at my Top Hat collection anymore

 

[steur]

A tall hat deserves a tall story.

Thanks for sharing this Stefan. I'm going to show it to my daughters. I don't think they'll be laughing at my Top Hat collection anymore

As long as they're not looking for ways to cash in!

 

[ErWeSa]

In 2003 there was an exposition of top hats in Tribuswinkel/Austria, organized by two collectors of top hats. Very interesting as they also showed tools etc. and a VHS-video about top hat production. Here is the catalogue of this exposition:

 

[steur]

In 2003 there was an exposition of top hats in Tribuswinkel/Austria, organized by two collectors of top hats. Very interesting as they also showed tools etc. and a VHS-video about top hat production. Here is the catalogue of this exposition:

Very cool. Thanks for posting it here.

 

[Steve1857]

In 2003 there was an exposition of top hats in Tribuswinkel/Austria, organized by two collectors of top hats. Very interesting as they also showed tools etc. and a VHS-video about top hat production. Here is the catalogue of this exposition:

Looking forward to reading this.

Thanks for the link.

 

[mayserwegener]

In 2003 there was an exposition of top hats in Tribuswinkel/Austria, organized by two collectors of top hats. Very interesting as they also showed tools etc. and a VHS-video about top hat production. Here is the catalogue of this exposition:

Wolfgang, Thanks! Great leaflet!

 

[mayserwegener]

Altenburger Hut und Putz AHP GmbH, 58 cm, 1990 - 2020 (might receive more precise dating). There is no model information but it has a 4 1/2 inch Crown. I have always been interested in having one of these Altenburger Hut und Putz AHP GmbH Stiff Felt Top Hats because they looked very well made. I am fairly certain this one is made of Wool Felt, and is well finished and has the correct stiffness. The Brim Flange + Curl work are vintage Stiff Felt level. The Bow and Brim Binding are also well executed. The company was facing insolvency in 2022, but found a new owner and was renamed Altenburger Hut & Kostüm GmbH. Looking at the photos of the current models they don't look as well made as this one. Matt lives nearby so maybe he can stop by and see what they are up to. Altenburg was a major hat center up to WWII, similar to Guben. I have detailed information on my website.

 

[Rmccamey]

Very nice, Steve. Please PM me with the specs. I may have to have a custom built like that.

Altenburger Hut und Putz AHP GmbH, 58 cm, 1990 - 2020 (might receive more precise dating). There is no model information but it has a 4 1/2 inch Crown. I have always been interested in having one of these Altenburger Hut und Putz AHP GmbH Stiff Felt Top Hats because they looked very well made. I am fairly certain this one is made of Wool Felt, and is well finished and has the correct stiffness. The Brim Flange + Curl work are vintage Stiff Felt level. The Bow and Brim Binding are also well executed. The company was facing insolvency in 2022, but found a new owner and was renamed Altenburger Hut & Kostüm GmbH. Looking at the photos of the current models they don't look as well made as this one. Matt lives nearby so maybe he can stop be and see what they are up to. Altenburg was a major hat center up to WWII, similar to Guben. I have detailed information on my website.

 

[mayserwegener]

Very nice, Steve. Please PM me with the specs. I may have to have a custom built like that.

Randy, Thank you! The dimension are: Brim Width without Flange and Curl ~ 2 1/4 inches. Crown Height = 4 1/2 in inches. Top of Crown 7 inches by 8 inches. Opening 8 inches by 6 1/2 inches, 58 cm. The Flange is 1 inch at Center Sides and the Curl is 1/2 inch at Center Sides, 1/4 inch Center Front and Back. There is a good amount Flange at Center Sides as you can see from the Front and Side photos. The Brim Binding is ~ 3/4 of a inch and the Band is 1 1/4 inches. For a modern Stiff Felt it has vintage like Flange and Brim Curl + Binding work.

 

[batankyu]

I purchased this gibus for 22 euros at a garage sale in Gouville-sur-mer, Normandie on Sat 9 Aug 2025. There are some scratch on the silk, some bumps on the edge at the top of the cylinder, and the top of brim binding needs to be glued again on both sides. The brim binding has a cut on the right side. Under the brim, the brim binding is not symmetrical as it leans towards the left. The claque mechanism is functional and the hat can be collapsed.

Inside, there are the two initials "AP" of the original owner pinned on the left. At the bottom, It's written "Rex" surrounded by two guillemets, the left one sitting on the baseline, and "Garantie-Marke" (which is german I guess, as "Marke" is not a french word). Beneath is a 6-branch star looking like a David star, but I don't know if it's really Jewish or not. With a search on Google, another gibus with these exact words and logo can be found on a sale site at page below https://picclick.de/Alter-Klappzylinder-Hut-Chapeau-Clayue-REX-Garantie-Marke-333096658984.html

Dimensions:
- top of crown: 19.5 cm long, 17.5 cm large.
- cylinder: 14.0 cm high.
- ribbon: 2.5 cm high
- opening: 19.0 long, 16.0cm large.
- brim: 5.5 cm front or rear, 4.5cm left or right, from opening.
- brim curl on sides: 1.0cm large on top, 1.5 cm high.

Outside, top view:

Outside, front view:

Outside, 3/4 front left view:

Outside, left side view. Brim binding needs to be glued again here:

Outside, 3/4 rear left view:

Outside, rear view:

Outside, 3/4 rear right view:

Outside, right side view. Brim binding needs to be glued again here:

Outside, 3/4 front right view:

Inside, main view:

Inside, top view:

Inside, front view. Brim binding leans toward the left:

Inside, left side view, with original owner's initals "AP":

Inside, rear view:

Inside, right side view:

Zoom on the inscription at the bottom: "Rex Garantie-Marke" with the 6-branch star (Portrait):

Zoom on the inscription at the bottom: "Rex Garantie-Marke" with the 6-branch star (Landscape):

(Views of collapsed hat and on owner in next post because of the 20 pictures limit per post...)

 

[batankyu]

(Views of collapsed hat and on owner in this post because of the 20 pictures limit per post...)

Collapsed inside:

Collapsed outside, top view:

Collapsed outside, front view:

Collapsed outside, left side view:

Collapsed outside, rear view:

Collapsed outside, right side view:

On owner, left side view:

On owner, 3/4 front left view:

On owner, front view:

On owner, 3/4 front right view:

On owner, right side view:

 

[batankyu]

I purchased this vintage silk top hat "P. Roy" for 20 euros on Fri 15 Aug 2025 at a garage sale in La Chapelle-Urée, Normandie.

The brim is very narrow and high on sides, almost hiding the bow of the ribbon The bottom of the hat features the all-black logo of an winged angel with whip on chariot pulled four horses running on a cloud. Text says that the hat maker (or hat shop ?) is "P. ROY" in the city of "MEAUX" (at east of Paris). The sweatband is embossed with a logo featuring a crown sit on a oval frame saying "QUALITÉ SUPÉRIEURE". Inside of the frame, a blazon has four quarters, two of them have three stacked crown, the others have a standing lion and a winged sphinx.

The inner lining of the cylinder is very thin and fragile like cigarette paper and is slightly damaged with 2 holes. The sweatband is unglued/unsewn from the brim on the front left. There is no structural damage on the cylinder, the plush shows no wear but is a brownish on top of crown, brim binding and ribbon are intact.

The last owner of the top hat careless wrote his name "Blanchet" with a stylo on the front of the sweatband. He also did it with a Sharpie on three bowler hats of different size that I did not purchase, which hints that the last owner was possibly lending his hats to theaters but wanted them back after use.

Dimensions:
- top of crown: 19.5 cm long, 16.5 cm large.
- cylinder: 14.25 cm high on front or rear, 13.5 cm high on sides.
- ribbon: 2.5 cm high
- opening: 19.0 long, 16.0cm large.
- brim: 5.0, cm front or rear, 4 cm left or right, from opening.
- brim curl on sides: 1.0cm large on top, 2.75 cm high.

Outside, front view:

Outside, front left view:

Outside, left side view:

Outside, rear left view:

Outside, rear view:

Outside, rear right view:

Outside, right side view:

Outside, front right view:

Outside, top view (landscape):

Outside, top view (portrait):

Inside, general view:

Inside, front view:

Inside, left side view:

Inside, rear view:

Inside, right side view:

Logo at the bottom with inscription "P. ROY", "MEAUX":

Sweatband, front view with "BLANCHET" written with a stylo.

Sweatband, left side view. Nothing there except it's unsewn there:

Sweatband, rear view with the knot:

Sweatband, right side with with embossed crown and blazon saying "QUALITÉ SUPÉRIEURE":

(Hat box and pictures of hat on owner in next post due to limit of 20 pics per post...)

 

[batankyu]

(Hat box and pictures of hat on owner in this post due to limit of 20 pics per post...)

The top hat comes with the original blue cardboard box in very poor condition. The lid features a similar yellow logo with inscription "P. ROY", "MEAUX". The vertical border of the lid and central string of the lid are missing. The body of box is dirty and the bottom has been poorly attached again to the cylinder with plain transparent tape. Removing this tape would damage the box further by removing its blue color.

Box with lid on, 3/4 view, seam side:

Box with lid on, 3/4 view, no-seam side:

Lid, outside view:

Lid, inside view, with inscription "3":

Lid, logo and inscription "P. ROY", "MEAUX":

Box, inside, top view:

Box, outside, bottom view:

Box, inside rear view with inscription "3":

Box, inside right side view:

Box, inside front view:

Box, inside left side view:

Hat on owner, left side view:

Hat on owner, 3/4 front left view:

Hat on owner, front view;

Hat on owner, 3/4 front right view:

Hat on owner, 3/4 right view:

 

[Steve1857]

(Hat box and pictures of hat on owner in this post due to limit of 20 pics per post...)

The top hat comes with the original blue cardboard box in very poor condition. The lid features a similar yellow logo with inscription "P. ROY", "MEAUX". The vertical border of the lid and central string of the lid are missing. The body of box is dirty and the bottom has been poorly attached again to the cylinder with plain transparent tape. Removing this tape would damage the box further by removing its blue color.

Box with lid on, 3/4 view, seam side:

Box with lid on, 3/4 view, no-seam side:

Lid, outside view:

Lid, inside view, with inscription "3":

Lid, logo and inscription "P. ROY", "MEAUX":

Box, inside, top view:

Box, outside, bottom view:

Box, inside rear view with inscription "3":

Box, inside right side view:

Box, inside front view:

Box, inside left side view:

Hat on owner, left side view:

Hat on owner, 3/4 front left view:

Hat on owner, front view;

Hat on owner, 3/4 front right view:

Hat on owner, 3/4 right view:

That is a really nice find, especially for a mere €20. It looks like it has been well looked after. The shape suggests it has quite some age to it.

While the box is not in such good shape, it's still nice to have. The azure blue colour is quite unique.

Congrats on a super find.

 

[steur]

Léon topper in what feels like a size 56. Bound brim at 5cm and 13cm high. Léon was a retailer in Paris and we've seen hats sold by them before, usually made by other manufacturers. I could not find any other information about them except for these ads.
The materials used and the way it is finished point towards an early date for this one. Alas it is in a bit of a state and it was not the main attraction of the set.