Toyo / Indian Motorcycle / Gold ?

[Canuck Panda]

These are just some of the jackets that came up on the used market when I searched for Toyo. Most are under the "Indian Motorcycle" label, others are under the "Gold" label. What was the story behind this brand from Japan? They seem to do a very wide variety of repro designs, horsehide, cowhide, wool...etc. But no longer doing them?

Prices are all over the place too. Some had original retail that is double the amount of the others. Some says made in Japan, and some just don't say anything at all. The zips would range from expensive Crown down to run of the mill Talon repros.

All I know about Toyo is that they are some affiliate brand of Mister Freedom now? And not doing any of these type of repro no more, just the nylon jackets.

Are these jackets worth the buy on the used market? Some look to be of high quality (Crown zip and thick wool)

Can anyone share the story of this brand's story. Thanks.

 

[Blackadder]

Toyo Enterprise has a lot of different lines. Ranges from made in China to made in Japan and even made in America. Sometimes they have the country of origins other times, they do not.
They claim to be the original maker of the "Souvenir Jacket". They then majored in making jeans, casual wear and work wear under the label Sugar Cane.
https://www.toyo-enterprise.co.jp/aboutus/
AFAIK, they have some sort of cooperation or joint venture with RM founder that resulted in the Buzz Rickson's label. Here is a old RM catalogue that include Buzz Rickson's
https://ameblo.jp/arabs/image-11929097997-13075645564.html
Toyo do outsource many of their production. As said United Carr items are usually made in China. They can switch supplier/actual manufacturer and they have done that. Hence you can find some really crappy Indian Motorcycle jackets that are made in China or Korea and then there would be some solid made in Japan ones.
They also use and register many different labels over the years. For example, I have seen them using the Indian Motorcycle and All State. Some of the labels are to create faithful reproduction of products made by defunct company. Like the brown police leather jacket in your 5th photo is a faithful reproduction of Lewis Holster of Los Angeles down to its label. Photo of the label of Toyo's jacket. A photo I took of a jacket I bought earlier this year.

Photos of the original jacket in one of Rin Tanaka's book

They have I believe also used the Californian label on a few of their repros.

 

[Aloysius]

Toyo is the parent company of Buzz Rickson's, Sugar Cane, etc.

They've also licensed the name of Indian Motorcycle, mostly for mass market Americana and workwear, though occasionally they will use it for higher end stuff like Sugar Cane tier.

Most of what they release under the Indian name (including the high end stuff) has no particular link to Indian's licensed products of the mid-century US; rather, it is used as a general name for certain workwear garments. The two exceptions are the last jacket in your post and a collaboration sweater with Dehen like the Indian sweaters of old.

 

[Blackadder]

https://www.heddels.com/2020/08/toy...lti-faceted-japanese-heritage-clothing-giant/
I believe the high end Indian Motorcycle stuffs are being sold at Junky Special in Shinjuku while the cheaper ones are sold at the Indian Motorcycle store in Harajuku

 

[Canuck Panda]

Thanks for the info! I wish I was knew about this brand when they did that Lewis police jacket repro. I found one on the used market but size didn't work out. It was actually the All State jackets from Junky Special that lead me to this search. Good stuff. I think I can spot the ones made in China/Korea, they tend to cut cost with lesser quality hardware and is easier to spot those in the photo. I wish this brand keep coming out with more repro leather stuff. They seem to do things quite well.

 

[Blackadder]

BTW this is where the Indian Motorcycle clothing store is
https://www.google.com/maps/@35.6673538,139.7055152,3a,75y,31.57h,106.22t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sX7cZzPDEl4gyaS_37SOfGQ!2e0!6shttps://streetviewpixels-pa.googleapis.com/v1/thumbnail?panoid=X7cZzPDEl4gyaS_37SOfGQ&cb_client=maps_sv.tactile.gps&w=203&h=100&yaw=303.6332&pitch=0&thumbfov=100!7i16384!8i8192
opposite the Oreryu Shio Ramen.
You won't be able to google it but it is still there last time I went.

 

[Aloysius]

Thanks for the info! I wish I was knew about this brand when they did that Lewis police jacket repro. I found one on the used market but size didn't work out. It was actually the All State jackets from Junky Special that lead me to this search. Good stuff. I think I can spot the ones made in China/Korea, they tend to cut cost with lesser quality hardware and is easier to spot those in the photo. I wish this brand keep coming out with more repro leather stuff. They seem to do things quite well.

There's no confusing their lower end stuff with the high end repro stuff, even before you look at hardware. The lower end stuff is visibly mall jacket style, with Indian patches and such.

Where did you find that pic of their version of the Ranger?

 

[Canuck Panda]

There's no confusing their lower end stuff with the high end repro stuff, even before you look at hardware. The lower end stuff is visibly mall jacket style, with Indian patches and such.

Where did you find that pic of their version of the Ranger?

I think it was Mecari, don't remember exactly. I saved some pics:

I am trying to find these in different sizes.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Here's a "perfecto" one. and the seller specifically say it is NOT made in Korea.
https://jp.mercari.com/item/m84591555156

 

[Blackadder]

There's no confusing their lower end stuff with the high end repro stuff, even before you look at hardware. The lower end stuff is visibly mall jacket style, with Indian patches and such.

Where did you find that pic of their version of the Ranger?

That one has removable belt. They did a few of modified Indian Ranger. This one is closer. IM80099
https://akafujiya.jp/products/detail/13591

 

[Aloysius]

Here's a "perfecto" one. and the seller specifically say it is NOT made in Korea.
https://jp.mercari.com/item/m84591555156

This is a repro of the second-gen Ranger. It is not as dramatically shaped as the first model and doesn't have a patch coin pocket. It still has the oversized collar.

 

[Aloysius]

That one has removable belt. They did a few of modified Indian Ranger. This one is closer. IM80099
https://akafujiya.jp/products/detail/13591

That it is. I was pleasantly surprised to see it because I hadn't seen that much in the way of Indian repros (besides the Dehen Indian sweater repros) despite the license.

 

[Blackadder]

That it is. I was pleasantly surprised to see it because I hadn't seen that much in the way of Indian repros (besides the Dehen Indian sweater repros) despite the license.

These two were listed on Yahoo Auction a couple of months ago but both are tweaked.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Not Ranger but "All State".

Ad says "1.5mmの肉厚なホースハイドを採用している" So thick teacore horsehide. Insert my smile here...

There is another "All State" by Rainbow Country, but only 1.2mm

 

[Aloysius]

Yeah I saw photos of that first All State on a Japanese site a while back and I was mesmerized.

 

[ton312]

Damn they even sniped the Sears “All State” label that was applied to relabeled Buco’s! Not even applied to the right jacket. I’ve seen that label in two jackets. The j-24 and the pj-27. At a certain point these Japanese brands just make me laugh.

 

[Monitor]

I don't think I've ever handled a better jacket than the Toyo that I had. Leather on it was something else entirely.

 

[Marc mndt]

Not even applied to the right jacket. I’ve seen that label in two jackets. The j-24 and the pj-27. At a certain point these Japanese brands just make me laugh.

This looks like an original

I don't think I've ever handled a better jacket than the Toyo that I had. Leather on it was something else entirely.

Inspired by this one?

 

[Aloysius]

Damn they even sniped the Sears “All State” label that was applied to relabeled Buco’s! Not even applied to the right jacket. I’ve seen that label in two jackets. The j-24 and the pj-27. At a certain point these Japanese brands just make me laugh.
View attachment 469315
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This is a different phenomenon from faux repros and the like. In Korea and Japan, it’s fairly common to license the names of random Western companies to establish unrelated brands. This is why ‘National Geographic’ is a fashion brand in Korea, as is Kodak.

This isn’t limited to the East, though. There are multiple European fashion brands that license the names of American colleges. Within the US, Fossil bought the name of an old American hairdressing to use as their upmarket line.

 

[ton312]

This looks like an original

View attachment 469365 View attachment 469364



Inspired by this one?

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Well I’ll be damned. Looks like Buco farmed the whole catalog out to Sears? I’ve only seen the two Buco’s with that label. Where did you find the first two pics? The Indian label makes no sense but that’s really surprising to see that particular Buco with the Sears tag.