Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by tmitchell59, Dec 5, 2020.

  1. JMax

    JMax I'll Lock Up

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    Definitely feels good to win them.
     
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  2. tmitchell59

    tmitchell59 I'll Lock Up

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    You did extra well on this one.

    I thinking there were different suppliers for the HD jackets, that allowed for different quality of leather to be used. Looks like Blatt of Chicago made some of these. We will break this case too.
     
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  3. JMax

    JMax I'll Lock Up

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    I recently read that a maker named “Golden Fleece” out of Milwaukee made some of the true vintage HD jackets. I wonder if Monarch was subcontracted, given their close physical proximity.

    Edit: Schott had some contracts with HD, I’m just not sure how far back they go. Brooks too. We mentioned Grais.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2021
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  4. tmitchell59

    tmitchell59 I'll Lock Up

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    We know this is a HD jacket without HD label.

    This jacket looks early 50s; the main zip and sleeve zips look late 40s the pocket zipps look 50s, the sleeve lining looks early too,

    Rivets on the belt loops. I have This construction on some late 40s Hercules. I also have this Hercules labeled jacket with only a leather tag.

    This is the Hercules labeled jacket with same leather tag and rivets.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    I'm on a trail.

    do all HD in this style have riveted loops? (mine does not)

    This particular Champ was short lived?
     
  5. Yamahana

    Yamahana A-List Customer

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    Great score there hermano! Man you have been on a run here lately and flat out snagging some grand vintage prizes. I need to learn some of your sleuthing skills or find out what you’ve been eating.:D
     
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  6. JMax

    JMax I'll Lock Up

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    I do believe this version of the cycle champ was short lived. The first two versions had the two patch pockets. Then this one came out in the mid-50s. By the 60s the Cycle Champ name was used on W pocket design jacket— no patch pockets and no D pocket. Stayed that way for a couple decades. Then the hyper commercialized, willie-g type jackets.

    My best guess, we are looking at mid-50s to 60 or so.
     
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  7. tmitchell59

    tmitchell59 I'll Lock Up

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    I have seen the later 60s/70s Golden Fleece HD labeled jackets. Very little is seen of the Golden Fleece label. Most I have seen are in vintage books, the labels are pre-war and not MC jackets. Just a label that doesn't show up. I can not picture a 50s Golden Fleece label.

    Did this style just show up with the Blatt label?

    Grais is a suspect do the lining color

    This jacket below is an unlabeled HD Cycle Queen? late 40s construction and hard wear. no rivets.

    The Three Spots is sorta a HD tradmark add two bars?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. ton312

    ton312

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    Wow man! That’s a rare bird. I have to think that jacket is a 50’s era piece. By the 60’s straight through to the early 80’s, the cycle champ was the three pocket design you’d associate with black, white, and AMF labels. Then the Korean made version before Willie nuked the leather line with embossed American eagles.
    Spectacular piece of HD history. That’s a collectors item.
     
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  9. tmitchell59

    tmitchell59 I'll Lock Up

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    Yes, I went to the book. We discussed this is another thread with catalogs pics, but forgotten where. Yes, new style in 1954, but list it as Horsehide only, can't read the lining materials in the ad.

    What year did similar Buco pocket come out? I will look at it in the classifieds.
     
  10. tmitchell59

    tmitchell59 I'll Lock Up

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  11. JMax

    JMax I'll Lock Up

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    The three-spot does seem to be HD thing, especially when on the shoulders. Earlier Cycle Champs did have the bars on the epaulettes though, as did the very similar Grais D pocket. Buco, Leathertogs had the bars all over their pocketless D pocket jackets too.

    The Blatt does have the 3-spot on the epaulettes.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2021
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  12. JMax

    JMax I'll Lock Up

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    More pics. You can see how the brown fights through the black. On the sleeve, around the pockets. Different colored lining too.

    3F152269-5FA0-4EC7-9558-9AA5E2B1B3DE.jpeg 3A855B2A-943D-458A-B85F-7D91D2D24937.jpeg 1578310D-F040-42DD-B889-A9FD7828BC66.jpeg 079EBF84-DDE7-4582-86FF-16708797BC8E.jpeg C9E111DE-4B01-45F5-982B-0C2EBA75DC6B.jpeg 45BFED32-8F6D-441F-ADF6-9E239F1876D4.jpeg 652632B3-30D0-43BC-A3D4-6F9B969C6AB4.jpeg B32CA8BA-187D-4419-A53C-61461B2DEBDB.jpeg
     
  13. JMax

    JMax I'll Lock Up

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    Belt buckle on Cycle Champ. The strap has no holes and the buckle no prong. Works extremely well with a clean look.

    A7B13D6E-5E67-45B6-886A-F46E2293257A.jpeg
     
  14. JMax

    JMax I'll Lock Up

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    Taubers arrived. Wow. Great fit, awesome hide, beefy zip. Longer in the body than one would expect from a vintage jacket. Very happy with it. Thanks @J Leather Investigater

    3B64F366-8F66-4499-BE56-AE974BDF40ED.jpeg E56CDEBC-7CE6-42CF-9FB8-7853335F61DC.jpeg 50B05C11-798B-4FA7-A018-276CACBCDADA.jpeg 6F1782F7-629A-40D7-8E89-A382D704BE8B.jpeg
     
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  15. Yamahana

    Yamahana A-List Customer

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    I noticed that plus the rope edge detail on it makes it cooler still.
     
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  16. Mysteryo

    Mysteryo One Too Many

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    0E6CECF9-5FC9-4399-9624-95DB61102414.jpeg 42B09C02-AE1F-4478-884A-BAC334481F20.jpeg 5A3AF86A-54D5-4F30-BF70-F40798EAF755.jpeg FE64663D-E859-4B0C-BE6B-7FC75F9D752D.jpeg E38C65A3-CCFF-41AA-9335-6BF4278A7764.jpeg I have one of these mid fifties HD jacket. Last D Pocket they produced in the golden age!
    Mine has no brand tag, so not 100% sure it’s not a Grais.
    Lining is not original, belt has been customized by previous owner, and I don’t know what leather it’s made of.
     
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  17. JMax

    JMax I'll Lock Up

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    Beautiful jacket.

    Doesn’t the Grais have the pocket in the back, a la Buco? I’m in the car at a stop light so can’t check. Squeezing in some TFL.
     
  18. TheGuitarFairy

    TheGuitarFairy Practically Family

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  19. JMax

    JMax I'll Lock Up

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  20. jonbuilder

    jonbuilder My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Hercules suede sport jacket I just pick up for a sung. The suede is lightweight clean and in excellent condition. I have no way of judging the age. I have been seeking a vintage suede for years always held back due to price and concern over the condition. The zip is a conmar and looks new. I forgot to take a picture of the Hercules
    I looked at the label and this is a Windward, not a Herc

    A5EE07E0-DC33-4483-9F15-38CE2F34B590_1_105_c.jpeg B149A703-34F4-4550-BD88-0BDD9B3B110F_1_105_c.jpeg 4AC307B7-A7EA-4458-B4F9-0E13FAD6A2F1_1_105_c.jpeg BE407F7E-8EDA-4B13-A4D6-C0844A24F7F2_1_105_c.jpeg FCDB9D9C-EC15-4F07-BDAB-C6C13CDC962B_1_105_c.jpeg B3E54601-ADF5-4F27-83EE-1DA9C1F19325_1_105_c.jpeg 2895DC3C-E4C3-4840-9B19-340318A8BC3A_1_105_c.jpeg 54198F34-18B1-4203-BFFC-9F7ED2A3AC0C_1_105_c.jpeg F06A6D77-5123-4A47-8B40-593F0CC4717D_1_105_c.jpeg 88767596-C655-4742-AA5E-408E653D8076_1_105_c.jpeg ag
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2021 at 1:54 PM

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