Vintage Spectator Shoes

[Isshinryu101]

Compare and contrast the last for the 1930s date conclusion:

Those are simply breathtaking! Of course the last shape is fabulous, but it's the skins that really stick out. Look at the uniform size and spacing of each scale. Out of an entire Alligator skin, only a VERY small part will be so perfect. In fact, most skins won't even HAVE a piece so nice. Now, only the top of the top makers get those pieces of hide.

Unbelievable!

 

[Isshinryu101]

Compare and contrast the last for the 1930s date conclusion:

Modern Comparison.

I know Cookie's are Gator & This pair are crocs, but the same principles apply. Uniform size & spacing for scales. Minimum "material" between the scales, etc. The factors that differentiate the quality of reptile skins remain the same. Compare Cookie's vintage pair from 70 years ago to THESE:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180688284288&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

That retail on the auction is about right, too. Not even CLOSE to the quality of Cookie's.

 

[Guttersnipe]

Wow, I'd walk mile barefoot over hot coals if those shoes were at the end!

 

[cookie]

Those are simply breathtaking! Of course the last shape is fabulous, but it's the skins that really stick out. Look at the uniform size and spacing of each scale. Out of an entire Alligator skin, only a VERY small part will be so perfect. In fact, most skins won't even HAVE a piece so nice. Now, only the top of the top makers get those pieces of hide.

Unbelievable!

Those gators above are Marc Chevalier's BTW - but seeing as you asked so nicely here are my Nettleton gator toecaps from the 40s/early 50s I suspect.







The guy who sold them said they belonged to his grandfather who worked in a shoe store. Probably ordered them MTO but the quality of Nettletons in those days was, as Isshi says, superior to anything modern day.

 

[Isshinryu101]

Probably ordered them MTO but the quality of Nettletons in those days was, as Isshi says, superior to anything modern day.

Be CAREFUL with that kind of talk, friend! There are some (who shall remain nameless) who have been known to come to fits and rants over such blasphemy!

 

[Zeropositive]

Hmm... I can't agree with that quote I have seen British shoes made in the UK of the highest quality. Fair enough prices are rather high for normal folk to buy.

 

[Isshinryu101]

... I have seen British shoes made in the UK of the highest quality.

Fair enough. Lobb, EG and some others are still turning out top quality products. There are some Italian makers doing the same, as well as Vass & others. Hard to compare these since the prices start so high. I think Cookie's point was that there was a time when WONDERFUL shoes could be had at REASONABLE prices. Now that's no longer the case.

 

[Yeps]

Wow, I'd walk mile barefoot over hot coals if those shoes were at the end!

I have to say (well I don't have to, but I will anyway), I wouldn't touch them with a ten foot pole. I am sure they are splendid examples of their kind, and are fantastic quality but you would have to pay me a significant sum to think of putting them on. I do not like gator skin. The spectators on the other hand...

 

[Tomasso]

Hmm... I can't agree with that quote I have seen British shoes made in the UK of the highest quality.

Yep, there are dozens of makers in the UK, Europe and Japan who produce shoes to the highest standards of yesteryear.

 

[cookie]

Yep, there are dozens of makers in the UK, Europe and Japan who produce shoes to the highest standards of yesteryear.

Vass comes to mind and St Crispins too...maybe Ludwig Reiter...and Cleverley of course...any others? The Italians Bestetti etc...even RM Williams has deteriorated FWIW.

 

[Tomasso]

any others?

I thought you were familiar with the shoe pyramid, top to bottom..........

Well, at the top sits:

 

[cookie]

Well Lobb is the top of the English/French(?) tree but I suspect some of the Italians with their handwork Norvogese etc like Santoni and Scafora would give Lobb a run for the money...IMHO of course.

Here is an interesting tumblr interview with SF shoe tragic Andrew Portnoy. He agrees with you Tomasso...http://www.tumblr.com/tagged/andrew+portnoy

 

[Isshinryu101]

Great article. Mr. Portnoy has developed opinions based on actual hands on experience. He has worked with makers & seen how they create their masterpieces. He has owned so many shoes that he can easily call upon his personal "notes" to make detailed and valid comparisons. One of the things I appreciate about him is the fact his tastes in shoes cover the whole gamut of styles. Although he favors the "classic designs of EG & Lobb, he is also a great lover of Norvegese... my absolute favorite! While many shoe "aficionados" discount Norvegese & other more "rustic" Italian styles (without actually experiencing them), He enjoys them immensely (as evidenced by his MANY Norvegese posts on SF).

I'm not sure Mr. Portnoy said the Lobbs & EG's were really "Better" than some of the other top makers he mentioned, he merely said, "my preference is heavily weighted toward Edward Green, John Lobb and Vass as I tend to appreciate the more classic designs that these firms offer." He seems to love the styles & designs, which I can certainly understand, as they have stood the test of time.

I also have to agree with this, "I am also drawn to the “iconic” shoes that other makers offer." I LOVE the Triple Sole offerings of JM Weston, and m still in search of the Chasse... although I LOVE the 3x sole wingtip as an extremely tough Brogue. The Lattanzi Norv Split-Toe is also a shoe I'd like to experience for myself, but the Santoni Ltd Edition model has sufficed as a wonderful shoe of similar style & design.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Those are simply breathtaking! Of course the last shape is fabulous, but it's the skins that really stick out. Look at the uniform size and spacing of each scale. Out of an entire Alligator skin, only a VERY small part will be so perfect. In fact, most skins won't even HAVE a piece so nice. Now, only the top of the top makers get those pieces of hide.

Unbelievable!

There's a reason for the "uniform size and spacing of each scale". These 1930s Florsheim shoes are not, in fact, made of alligator skin. They're cowhide embossed to look like alligator. Uncanny, eh?

 

[flyfishark]

There's a reason for the "uniform size and spacing of each scale". These 1930s Florsheim shoes are not, in fact, made of alligator skin. They're cowhide embossed to look like alligator. Uncanny, eh?

I would have bet my collection these were alligator. Hell, I have even more respect for Florsheim now and I didn't think that was possible. One of the most beautiful shoes I've seen.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I agree! I got them deadstock from "Re-Mix Shoes" in '97. The shoe store's owner was about to take them (and others) to sell in Japan. I begged him to reconsider, and he did!

 

[SteveAS]

Here's a beautiful pair of spadey Crosby Squares that sold quickly on ebay (not to me, because they're too small).

 

[flyfishark]

Superb! Anyone on FL get these??

 

[cookie]

Hard to beat NOS if they are not too dry.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

It doesn't get much better than that pair of Crosby Squares. Note the "v" brogueing on the cap toe!