Waistcoat with White Piping or Trim

[Fading Fast]

I've noticed that in several movies from the 1930s / 40s some men (usually older men playing captain of industry or senior banker or lawyer type of roles) wearing three-piece suits in which the waistcoat is trimmed or "piped" with a thin (1/2" or so) piece of white fabric. The body of the waistcoat will be of the same material and color (blue or grey, for example) as the suit's pants and jacket, but there will be this white trim / piping on the "V" part of the waistcoat.

However, I've never seen a waistcoat like this pop up on Ebay (to be fair, I am not a regular follower of Ebay's vintage offerings, but I do look from time to time) or as a topic of discussion or in pictures posted on this forum.

Has anyone else seen this? Does anyone know anything about them? Were they popular? How did they evolve? They seem kinda formal (but they are part of a suit not tuxedo) - did they signify some status? Where they only appropriate in certain places?

Thank you

 

[Fastuni]

I've got such a piped black waistcoat.
It started in the 19th century and was derived from the early 19th century fashion of wearing two waistcoats of different color.
This piping was used essentially to add more elegance/formality to a suit. Mostly worn with daytime formalwear (Stroller/Cut/Frockcoat) but also conservative suits.
In Europe at least this was done until the 1950's, but mostly then by "older gentlemen". IMO it looks good with a dark Peak-lapel 1920-30's SB suit.
An early 30's fashion guide I have (German) mentions that this "white piped waistcoat" is recommended for private festivities (birthday, marriage) or conferences etc.

 

[AntonAAK]

I was pretty sure that there was a thread on waistcoats such as these but a search on all of the obvious terms does not bring anything up. Perhaps it was a brief digression in another thread. Does anyone remember it or am I making it up?

 

[Tomasso]

The piping you are refering to is actually the edge of a garment which is worn under the vest, called a 'slip'.

 

[Fastuni]

It used to be an "under-waistcoat" in the 19th century (and may have been worn by some gents that also later on), but by the 1920's at least (and all the specimen I have seen) a white piping (braided or just folded fabric) was directly sewn to the edge of the waistcoat.

 

[Fading Fast]

All, thank you, fantastic information. I'm struggling with the concept of "the early 19th century fashion of wearing two waistcoats of different color." It sounds uncomfortable. Was it a layering thing for warmth or just a fashion thing that happened as fashion things will just happen? Thank you again - this Forum has so many nice and knowledgeable people.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

No, it's just a strip of white fabric peeking out. Often it can be buttoned to the waistcoat. "under waistcoat" is just a translation of the german term "Untergilet". Just like Fastuni said it is very old school and you won't see it often.

I remember an article in "Gentlemans Gazette" but can't find it right now.


PS: Aaah waistcoat slip is the english name

http://www.morningdressguide.com/morningwear-accessories/the-waistcoat-slip-piping/

 

[Tomasso]

all the specimen I have seen) a white piping (braided or just folded fabric) was directly sewn to the edge of the waistcoat.

I've seen those but there were/are also the type which is affixed with buttons which allows for removal for easy cleaning and pressing.

I imagine that the desire for warmth factored into its origin.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I was pretty sure that there was a thread on waistcoats such as these but a search on all of the obvious terms does not bring anything up. Perhaps it was a brief digression in another thread. Does anyone remember it or am I making it up?

This thread:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?5090-An-elusive-detail-of-early-1900s-mens-fashion

 

[AntonAAK]

This thread:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?5090-An-elusive-detail-of-early-1900s-mens-fashion

Ah, yes. Thanks, BK.