What does a fully broken in CXL jacket feel like?

[Guppy]

Is the tumbled CXL comfortable from the start? I don’t think I could tolerate wearing CXL long enough to break it in. Do you guys enjoy the process of breaking it in?

Tumbled CXL varies quite a bit in characteristics, apparently.

When I ordered my Wayfarer, I ordered heavy brown tumbled CXL FQHH. I really liked the tumbled cordovan example photos on Aero's website at the time (NOT the current photos, which are a different jacket), and wanted something very like it, only in dark brown rather than Horween Color #8. What I received did not look like it had been tumbled at all, but was otherwise matching all of my desired criteria.

I suspected that what had happened was that there wasn't a hide available the met all of my criteria, so Aero opted to go with all but the tumbling, because ultimately natural wear would give it that look I wanted in time, but thickness and color obviously weren't properties that would change. But when I asked them about it, they did tell me that they had used tumbled CXL.

It's hard to believe for me, because it's so smooth and doesn't show any of the characteristics that tumbled CXL normally exhibits. But that's what they told me.

In any case, everything I've heard/read/seen about tumbled CXL is that it's just normal CXL that has been tumbled to achieve a softer hand and broken in look that regular CXL will develop in time eventually on its own. The tumbling process can be replicated at home with a clothes dryer on a no-heat setting filled with softballs -- I'd recommend protecting the zipper pulls somehow. I haven't tried it, but it can be done.

The epilogue to this is that several years after I had my Wayfarer made, someone put up a nice tumbled cordovan Wayfarer in my size on the forums, and of course I bought it. It has none of the stiffness of the first Wayfarer that I had ordered, and since I bought it new, I don't know how much of that may be due to it being pre-worn by its owner, vs how much might have been due to the tumbling process. I tend to think that regardless of what I was told, that my first Wayfarer was simply not tumbled CXL and the secondhand one that I obtained was. But it remains possible that it was broken in more by its owner than I've broken in my first jacket to date. The first Wayfarer is definitely no longer like-new, and has softened some, gotten less stiff, but so far its grain hasn't popped out through the top coat as much yet, although it's starting to give some indications in places where the leather bends a lot, such as in the sleeve creases. I really need to put some more wear on it...

Comparing the two side by side, the thickness of the leather is about the same. The two jackets do not weigh the same -- the one I had made for me weighs in at 6.75 lbs, while the one I bought secondhand weighs 5.0 lbs. But my original is a 44, while the secondhand one is a 42, and has a lighter cotton drill lining as opposed to the Lochcarron herringbone wool I picked for mine, so some of the weight differences might be due to those factors. My original can still stand up on its own, but the secondhand one won't. Both are gorgeous and I'm fortunate to hold both in my closet.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Tumbled CXL varies quite a bit in characteristics, apparently.

When I ordered my Wayfarer, I ordered heavy brown tumbled CXL FQHH. I really liked the tumbled cordovan example photos on Aero's website at the time (NOT the current photos, which are a different jacket), and wanted something very like it, only in dark brown rather than Horween Color #8. What I received did not look like it had been tumbled at all, but was otherwise matching all of my desired criteria.

I suspected that what had happened was that there wasn't a hide available the met all of my criteria, so Aero opted to go with all but the tumbling, because ultimately natural wear would give it that look I wanted in time, but thickness and color obviously weren't properties that would change. But when I asked them about it, they did tell me that they had used tumbled CXL.

It's hard to believe for me, because it's so smooth and doesn't show any of the characteristics that tumbled CXL normally exhibits. But that's what they told me.

In any case, everything I've heard/read/seen about tumbled CXL is that it's just normal CXL that has been tumbled to achieve a softer hand and broken in look that regular CXL will develop in time eventually on its own. The tumbling process can be replicated at home with a clothes dryer on a no-heat setting filled with softballs -- I'd recommend protecting the zipper pulls somehow. I haven't tried it, but it can be done.

The epilogue to this is that several years after I had my Wayfarer made, someone put up a nice tumbled cordovan Wayfarer in my size on the forums, and of course I bought it. It has none of the stiffness of the first Wayfarer that I had ordered, and since I bought it new, I don't know how much of that may be due to it being pre-worn by its owner, vs how much might have been due to the tumbling process. I tend to think that regardless of what I was told, that my first Wayfarer was simply not tumbled CXL and the secondhand one that I obtained was. But it remains possible that it was broken in more by its owner than I've broken in my first jacket to date. The first Wayfarer is definitely no longer like-new, and has softened some, gotten less stiff, but so far its grain hasn't popped out through the top coat as much yet, although it's starting to give some indications in places where the leather bends a lot, such as in the sleeve creases. I really need to put some more wear on it...

Comparing the two side by side, the thickness of the leather is about the same. The two jackets do not weigh the same -- the one I had made for me weighs in at 6.75 lbs, while the one I bought secondhand weighs 5.0 lbs. But my original is a 44, while the secondhand one is a 42, and has a lighter cotton drill lining as opposed to the Lochcarron herringbone wool I picked for mine, so some of the weight differences might be due to those factors. My original can still stand up on its own, but the secondhand one won't. Both are gorgeous and I'm fortunate to hold both in my closet.

Would love to see some pics of these!!

 

[AeroFan_07]

I've been thinking about this a little, how to describe "feel" of a particular type of leather used on a jacket, and more specifically how it feels after it is well broken in.

After owning many CXL Steer & Horse hide jackets, I only have one left. It's an Indian Ranger that I ordered through Thurston Brothers in 2021. This one is a "middle weight" CXL based upon other jackets I've owned.

Last evening I had two errands after work both entailing a 20-minute round trip of driving, and the first entailing a 10 minute walk into a store. For the first errand, I grabbed the Indian Ranger from its hanger, in my ~ 68F house. It was initially quite stiff (been a month or so since I had it on). However, after the 10-minuite drive to the store, I noted the back and sleeves were pretty well warmed up from body heat, despite a ~ 55F outside temperature. I noticed going into the store it was more flexible but still had the waxy CXL "feel" that the OP's jacket likely still has. Coming home and putting the jacket away in the closet, it felt about the same, seems to me once it gets to your body temperature, it's about as "flexible" as it will be. One huge benefit of the CXL is that has a very strong, desirable odor, and that seems to affect the feel a bit as well. It simply smells great.

For the second errand, I wore a Lost Worlds Horse Hide (4.0 oz) J24. This jacket was similarly stiff initially putting on in the same house at the same room temperature. Outside had cooled a bit to ~ 50F. However, none of that "waxy feeling" was present. This would be since the jacket is a full chrome tanned, heavy horse jacket. It never really loosened up, even after wearing it in the car. Since I only was dropping items in a mailbox at the local post office ~ 10 minutes away, I did not get out and walk around at all. This jacket was warmer when I put it away ~ 20 minutes later at home, but not any less stiff. This Lost Worlds jacket's horse hide has little, if any actual odor. This does not change when warmed up, it just seems flat & neutral, so the odor effect does not contribute to "feel" whatsoever.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

I've been thinking about this a little, how to describe "feel" of a particular type of leather used on a jacket, and more specifically how it feels after it is well broken in.

After owning many CXL Steer & Horse hide jackets, I only have one left. It's an Indian Ranger that I ordered through Thurston Brothers in 2021. This one is a "middle weight" CXL based upon other jackets I've owned.

Last evening I had two errands after work both entailing a 20-minute round trip of driving, and the first entailing a 10 minuite walk into a store. For the first errand, I grabbed the Indian Ranger from its hanger, in my ~ 68F house. It was initially quite stiff (ben a month or so since I had it on). However, after the 10-minuite drive to the store, I noted the back and sleeves were pretty well warmed up from body heat, despite a ~ 55F outside temperature. I noticed going into the store it was more flexible but still had the waxy CXL "feel" that the OP's jacket likely still has. Coming home and putting the jacket away in the closet, it's felt about the same, seems to me once it gets to your body temperature, it's about as "flexible" as it will be. One huge benefit of the CXL is that has a very strong, desirable odor, and that seems to affect the feel a bit as well. It simply smells great.

For the second errand, I wore a Lost Worlds Horse Hide (4.0 oz) J24. This jacket was similarly stiff initially putting on in the same house at the same room temperature. Outside had cooled a bit to ~ 50F. However, none of that "waxy feeling" was present. This would be since the jacket is a full chrome tanned, heavy horse jacket. It never really loosened up, even after wearing it in the car. Since I only was dropping items in a mailbox at the local post office ~ 10 minutes away, I did not get out and walk around at all. This jacket was warmer when I put it away ~ 20 minutes later at home, but not any less stiff. This Lost Worlds jacket's horse hide has little, if any actual odor. This does not change when warmed up, it just seems flat & neutral, so the odor effect does not contribute to "feel" whatsoever.

Great post!!

I also noticed the CXL stiffness vs temp. On a hot day in the sun it is considerably softer.

I really envy your LW J24!!! I saw your fit pics on another thread - absolutely amazing fit!

 

[NamoAmituofo]

I want to get my hands on a LW 4oz+ jacket!! If I can find one that fits, I can downsize my collection from 3 to just 2 jackets!!

 

[JasonY]

Pulled my Schott p613s into action the last couple days as it's been a rainy 50's (thought it was done for the summer). I second the comments on CXL smell...so good and persistent, especially after it's warmed up some. Ideal CXL weather IMO. Circling back to feel...after having not worn it for a good week or so due to the warm weather, putting it on reminded me of the lead apron one gets draped with during dental x-rays. I imagine it's how my dog feels while wearing his "thunder coat".

 

[JasonY]

Reflecting on this topic further, I think a certain degree of stiffness (structure) is necessary given the weight of the finished hide. I think too little structure would both feel and look off. I could be wrong here.