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Which Flat Head back design looks better?

livioli

Familiar Face
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livioli

Familiar Face
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85
Some extra photos:
 

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cbez

Practically Family
Messages
882
Location
CA
they constantly run different leathers so I'd just focus on the specific jacket and the leather of that run. but I do think the lower 'belt' looks better.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,453
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California
I think the jacket on the left looks terrible and I’m honestly surprised that those are the photos someone chose to market it with. I like the back of the jacket on the right although there seems to be a lot of excess leather.
I have to wonder if the leather on these jackets is really that incredible because for about half the price you could have something that fits twice as well. Not trying to be a party pooper, and I don’t have any ax to grind when it comes to Japanese jackets, I usually think they are beautifully executed. These two just fall a little short to my eye.
 

livioli

Familiar Face
Messages
85
I think the jacket on the left looks terrible and I’m honestly surprised that those are the photos someone chose to market it with. I like the back of the jacket on the right although there seems to be a lot of excess leather.
I have to wonder if the leather on these jackets is really that incredible because for about half the price you could have something that fits twice as well. Not trying to be a party pooper, and I don’t have any ax to grind when it comes to Japanese jackets, I usually think they are beautifully executed. These two just fall a little short to my eye.
Understandable. Pattern and fit aside, when I visited TFH store in Tokyo, their Shinki leather was the most beautiful I had ever seen. It was softer than any other horsehide I had ever felt, including Shinki from other brands. They had a jacket that was 12 years old I think ...

I know 100% that I can get a better fit with other brands (e.g custom Aero), but the leather is what I'm drawn to. It's hard to describe and the pictures don't do it justice.
 

livioli

Familiar Face
Messages
85
Then say no more, you know what you are after. My vote is definitely for the jacket on the right.
Btw, do you have any opinions on aniline vs semi-aniline? I was always under the impression that semi meant sacrificing some beauty and aging for more durability.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,917
Location
London
Which two of these jackets do you prefer? The one of the left is aniline, and the right one is semi-aniline.

I feel like the jacket looks for formal/polished with the belt buckle in the middle.

Also, which do you think will age more beautifully?

Aniline: https://redcastheritage.com/product...62854&pr_ref_pid=8698892812626&pr_seq=uniform

Semi-aniline: https://redcastheritage.com/product...1862854&pr_seq=uniform&variant=47512268112210

Aging sample of the semi-aniline version:

To my untrained eyes they both have very Japanese issues.

The one on the left is just a shapeless mess, it is too long and super bulbous, it looks all kinds of wrong.

The one on the right is the complete opposite but taken too far, it is super hourglasss shaped and IMO has a very feminin shape, whilst still having far too much baggy leather in some places.

From a purely visual design point of vue, i prefer the first one, it looks like a traditional CHP vibe with buckles rather than laces.

From a pattern/fit point of view i think they are both pretty terrible and wouldn't pick either.
 
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TartuWolf

Practically Family
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874
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Tartu, Estonia
If you can get a custom fit (which you can't in this case) this does not matter / is not valid, but..
I think of it this way - what is your gut/naval/waist width in relation to your hip width?
If you your body chest>waist>hip ration is closer to "V" then the first jacket makes more sense.
If you your body chest>waist>hip ration is closer to a "Y" or a ")(" then the second one makes sense.
Purely from a fit adjustment point of view.
For example I'm a 36" chest > 31" waist > 33.5" belt so I need the mid section to be as narrow as or slightly narrower than the bottom hem section for it to fit and feel right.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,917
Location
London
If you can get a custom fit (which you can't in this case) this does not matter / is not valid, but..
I think of it this way - what is your gut/naval/waist width in relation to your hip width?
If you your body chest>waist>hip ration is closer to "V" then the first jacket makes more sense.
If you your body chest>waist>hip ration is closer to a "Y" or a ")(" then the second one makes sense.
Purely from a fit adjustment point of view.
For example I'm a 36" chest > 31" waist > 33.5" belt so I need the mid section to be as narrow as or slightly narrower than the bottom hem section for it to fit and feel right.

From experience, Japanese jackets are designed to fit on A shaped people.
All it takes is looking at the size charts to see it.

The first jacket (size 42) has 18.9 shoulders, 20.9 waist and 20.5 opening, which is basically A shaped, not V shaped.
it also has 27.2 back with only 25.5 sleeves which makes no sens and will always look like crap on anyone.

The second jacket (also 42) has 20.1 shoulders, 20.9 waist and 20.5 opening, which is also A shaped, almost the opposite of an hourglass. Once again, short sleeves, long body.

That's why both of these jackets look like a shapeless mess, they are designed for a Japanese body, with a Japanese modern fashion aesthetic in mind.

Personally i don't understand why anyone in charge would OK the pictures on the website, the fit are horrible, they look worst than the Langlitz pictures!
 
Messages
16,957
Location
Chicago
From experience, Japanese jackets are designed to fit on A shaped people.
All it takes is looking at the size charts to see it.

The first jacket (size 42) has 18.9 shoulders, 20.9 waist and 20.5 opening, which is basically A shaped, not V shaped.
it also has 27.2 back with only 25.5 sleeves which makes no sens and will always look like crap on anyone.

The second jacket (also 42) has 20.1 shoulders, 20.9 waist and 20.5 opening, which is also A shaped, almost the opposite of an hourglass. Once again, short sleeves, long body.

That's why both of these jackets look like a shapeless mess, they are designed for a Japanese body, with a Japanese modern fashion aesthetic in mind.

Personally i don't understand why anyone in charge would OK the pictures on the website, the fit are horrible, they look worst than the Langlitz pictures!
Yes it's all of this and the neckhole that would hold Ronnie Coleman's thigh...
1707832603754.png
 

Brandrea33

One Too Many
Messages
1,029
The leather on the FH is absolutely incredible, still haunts me to this day.

The jacket did not fit me well, so I had to move it on. I thought about keeping it just because of that leather though lol
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,171
That's why both of these jackets look like a shapeless mess, they are designed for a Japanese body, with a Japanese modern fashion aesthetic in mind.

I think even the ‘Japanese body’ explanation that fans of this cut throw out doesn’t hold, being Asian and having spent much of my life there. To suit the A-shaped cut from Fine Creek (or even the Japanese versions of western makers like Lewis), you would have to be simultaneously very weak and small in the upper body, but then have a big beer belly. I think it is purely a fad pushed by Lightning magazine.

In the case of Fine Creek, you’d need to be 6’4 with a 36” chest and a 42” waist! Someone posted a jacket here recently and it genuinely looked worse than a fashion jacket from Zara or H&M, from the saggy bag shape to the completely limp lapels; the leather looked like pleather, even though I’m sure it’s technically some expensive Shinki. Tbh the Zara types probably have a better pattern.

As I mentioned in another thread, a slim Japanese friend in Tokyo was talked into getting the Japanese “Tight” fit by Lewis, instead of the classic Lewis fit, and now he’s stuck with a baggy bottom block he’s had to find a leather tailor to correct.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,453
Location
California
Btw, do you have any opinions on aniline vs semi-aniline? I was always under the impression that semi meant sacrificing some beauty and aging for more durability.
I must admit I don’t know much about the difference between aniline and semi-aniline.
 

cbez

Practically Family
Messages
882
Location
CA
There is a very vocal group here that hates any jacket not cut for this guy.
1000019148.jpg

I think part of it is the narrower shoulders, western models size up to fit and end up with billowing trash bag bodies.

This guy looks pretty good. Not sure about the armpit folds.

1000019149.jpg 1000019150.jpg 1000019151.jpg
 

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