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Which hat for a Noir Movie ?

Camille DeLarge

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
France
To begin, sorry for my bad english language, i'm french and i learn this language.

Well, i want make a movie, a Noir Film.

For that, i have chose Humphrey Bogart for the reference.

At first, i thought the hat is a Stetson Penn Fedora

1314STE2118201-1.jpg


But they told me it was not that hat, because the Penn Fedora is already formed.

In fact, the Bogart's hat is flabby/pliable ( i don't know how you say that in english ^^ )

So i thought at a Royal Stetson Whippet

$T2eC16Z,!yME9s5qHstYBR7229TRcg~~60_57.JPG


Apart that, have no other idea of what is the Bogart's Hat.

Thank you !
 

Camille DeLarge

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
France
Okay thanks, here in France we don't have these hats, but we are lot of Stetson ! ( and Borsalino ).
In fact, without necessarily having one of Bogart, i want a pliable Stetson style 50's, like in a movie " The maltese Falcon " for examples or in a video game "L.A. Noire ".
Thanks.
 

ManofKent

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,039
Location
United Kingdom
Okay thanks, here in France we don't have these hats, but we are lot of Stetson ! ( and Borsalino ).
In fact, without necessarily having one of Bogart, i want a pliable Stetson style 50's, like in a movie " The maltese Falcon " for examples or in a video game "L.A. Noire ".
Thanks.

Ole - a better link :)

Camile DeLarge - if you can't find what you want as a vintage hat then there are several hat makers who will make you one. Without wanting to favour any particular maker as I don't own any of their work, Art Fawcett - Vintage Silhouettes or John Penman - Penman hats spring to mind, but there are certainly others.
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,056
Location
San Francisco, CA
The Borsalino Torino was a popular model for export which, although slightly smaller in proportion than the Stetson/Resistol (depending on who you ask) that Bogie wore, makes a nice substitute.

IMG_20130331_181654_zpsd8c8e5f0.jpg


A grey hat with a wide band and a good size brim, say 2 3/8"-2 1/2', would fit the bill with a diamond crease. A Cavanagh edge would be best, a welted edge would be a fine alternative.
 

Camille DeLarge

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
France
Ole - a better link :)

Camile DeLarge - if you can't find what you want as a vintage hat then there are several hat makers who will make you one. Without wanting to favour any particular maker as I don't own any of their work, Art Fawcett - Vintage Silhouettes or John Penman - Penman hats spring to mind, but there are certainly others.

Okay thanks !
For me, Borsalino or Stetson or Art Fawcett
 

frenchgentleman

New in Town
Messages
31
Location
Paris
Glad to see another French person on this board!

A few months ago, Pauline Brosset (Paris-based custom hatter) made me a hat inspired by the one worn by Humphrey Bogart in The Maltese Falcon. You can see it here http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...w-Hats-Here!&p=1608634&highlight=#post1608634 and http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...w-Hats-Here!&p=1609087&highlight=#post1609087

For me the keys are:
* light-to-medium gray color, maybe blue smoke
* wide dark ribbon (4 or 5cm. 5cm is unusual nowadays, and Humphrey Bogart also wore hats with a 4cm ribbon I guess, like in Casablanca)
* moderately high crown with not too much taper, and from what I remember a little higher at the front than at the back
* 5,5 to 6,5cm brim (it is preferable to see what compliments your face better)
* snap brim
* deep diamond crease
* not too tight a pinch in front
* a Cavanagh edge if you find a vintage hat, or an overwelt if it is modern, but for me anyway a raw edge can be fine too
* for the hat to be pliable, if it is a modern it is better to be made of beaver felt

And, very important: Humphrey Bogart always wore his hat tilted to the side, and from what I can see in some old photographs of my grandfather, back in the days, in real life men wore them tilted too here in France.
 

jhe888

One of the Regulars
Messages
265
Location
Texas, United States
The Whippet is a '40s era hat, and therefore is a hat like Bogart might have worn, even if he didn't actually wear a Whippet.

The modern Stetson has a much lower crown and tapers more - it would likely pass for many casual viewers as a hat Bogart might have worn, it is actually significantly different in look.

Go with the Whippet if that is a choice for you.
 

Camille DeLarge

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
France
Vous êtes français ?

Ce chapeau est bien beau ! Mais est il déjà formé ? Il n'est pas "mou" ?
Merci ! Et je ne pensais pas trouver un français ici !
 

Camille DeLarge

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
France
The Whippet is a '40s era hat, and therefore is a hat like Bogart might have worn, even if he didn't actually wear a Whippet.

The modern Stetson has a much lower crown and tapers more - it would likely pass for many casual viewers as a hat Bogart might have worn, it is actually significantly different in look.

Go with the Whippet if that is a choice for you.

Yeah it is very class, but the Borsalino Torino too.
 

frenchgentleman

New in Town
Messages
31
Location
Paris
Vous êtes français ?

Ce chapeau est bien beau ! Mais est il déjà formé ? Il n'est pas "mou" ?

Oui, je suis français !

Le chapeau est mou, pas autant qu'un Borsalino moderne, mais plus nerveux et un peu plus épais, ce qui lui permet de bien prendre et garder la forme qu'on lui donne. En fait j'ai montré des photos et des dessins à ma chapelière en lui disant ce que j'aimais dans chaque image, puis elle a travaillé le feutre à la main pour lui donner cette forme, que j'ai ensuite très légèrement modifiée au fil des ports.

*********
Yes, I'm French!

The hat is soft, the felt is not as floppy as modern Borsalinos are, but more nervous and a little thicker, which permits to keep the shape it is given. Actually I have shown some photographs and drawings to my hatter, explaining what I liked in each picture, and then she has worked on the shape of the hat by hand, which I have slightly modified after wearing the hat a little.
 
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Camille DeLarge

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
France
D'accord il est bien !

Donc comme dis plus tôt, le Royal Stetson Whippet est intéressant, mais ne ressemble pas assez à un fedora penn. Le Borsalino Torino est magnifique aussi, cependant je ne trouve aucun sites pour l'acheter.
 

frenchgentleman

New in Town
Messages
31
Location
Paris
Le Borsalinon Torino est un modèle ancien je crois... Borsalino a une boutique rue de Grenelle à Paris, mais leurs formes sont plus modernes, la calotte est moins haute, plus conique. Attention, sur leur site internet il n'y a pas tous les modèles, notamment les classiques. Par contre en boutique il ont un chapeau gris-clair-bleuté avec une bande de grosgrain marron de moins de 3,84cm, qui pourrait être assez dans l'esprit de la couleur. Leur feutre est très souple et modelable, même pour les modèles en poil de lapin ou de lièvre.

De toute façon si tu n'as jamais porté de chapeau il est préférable de se rendre en boutique et d'essayer pour voir ce qui te va le mieux, car une différence d'un demi centimètre pour la largeur du bord ou la hauteur de calotte peut dramatiquement changer la silhouette, et le résultat est différent d'une personne à l'autre. Par ailleurs il faut qu'il soit confortable à porter.

*********
The Borsalino Torino is an old model I guess ... Borsalino has a shop in Paris, rue de Grenelle, but their forms are more modern, the crown lower, with some taper. On their website they don't display all their models, favoring the trendy ones. On the other side, in their shop they have a light-slightly-blueish-gray fedora with a less than 3,84cm wide ribbon, which could be enough in the spirit of the color. Their felt is very soft and malleable, even for their rabbit or hare felts.

Anyway, if you have never worn a hat it is better to go in a hat shop and try on some models to see what suits you best, because a difference of just half a centimer in the brim width or the crown height can dramatically alter the silhouette, and the result is different from people to people. Moreover, it should be confortable to wear.
 
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TheDane

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,670
Location
Copenhagen, Denmark
Skal vi ikke forsøge at holde dialogen på engelsk? Ellers kan dette hurtigt blive et splittet og uinteressant forum ;)

And translated from Danish:

Shouldn't we try to keep the dialog in English? If not, this could soon be a divided and uninteresting forum ;)
 

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