T Jones
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 6,635
- Location
- Central Ohio
Well, the 3D printed block did what it was supposed to do. I blocked a heavyweight Western on it for @deadlyhandsome and it did a good job. I have a custom made 3D printed block, myself, that Randall Alan made for me. I've had it for about 5 years and it's still going strong.I’ve had good luck buying used flanges. With some patience you can usually find one at a small fraction of the cost of a new one. Used blocks are more expensive. With both, it’s not just size but profile. You probably don’t want all your hats to look the same and have the same blocking.
I only have one 3-D printed block and I vastly prefer wood; although the 3-D block is working well for now. The wood just seems more durable and less dependent on careful usage (@T Jones has my 3-D printed block so maybe he can add his thoughts).
I hav a rounded dome aluminum “block.” It’s heated, but I removed the heating element and the cord. It works great when I need an anvil inside the crown the work out old creases and wrinkles in the felt. I work small sections at a time and the hats never take on the shape of the block. The block is 21” in circumference and very tapered. I would never want a crown to have that shape, but it works great for what I use it for and it works equally well on a wide range of sizes.
Having a block that is one or two sizes smaller that the hat size is nice for not only working out old creases. The block can be used to stretch out the felt and change its shape/blocking. It’s not as good as a full strip down and re-block with the correct size block, but you can do a lot. My tapered aluminum block gets used all the time whereas my fitted crown blocks are used infrequently. I use my flanges quite a bit.
Good luck!