Cafe racer options -- Aero, Lost Worlds, Ironheart?

[lina]

I am still on the cafe racer theme, and thanks to those earlier who responded to my question about collar comfort. So... looking at some CR options, and interested in feedback, either based on looks of the jackets alone or on experience of wearing them. No doubt there are other good options (including perhaps Vanson and Schott), but catching my eye now are these from Aero, LW, and Ironheart. What do you all think?

Aero:

LW:

Ironheart:

(Back of the Ironheart is a little weird for a CR, with the panels, but may be okay..)

 

[willyto]

Choosing only by the looks I would choose the Lost Worlds one. That back with the lateral cinches and the breast pocket look amazing.

I don't like the Iron Heart at all, it looks cheap with that ultra glossy leather and the multiple panels in the back don't look good to me.

I would have to choose between the Aero and the Lost World.

 

[Edward]

There's something a little weird about the Ironheart to my eye, I can't quite put my finger on it. Are they making their own now? They originally collaborated with Will Lauder, first at Aero, then at Alexander Leathers as was, but this looks to be rather different in style than anything they had from them. I'm sure I also recall there being a time when they had AL jackets on sale alongside a solely-IH branded one, so maybe they've gotten into leather in-house. This one seems to carry on the theme of much chunkier zips and such than you'd see on the likes of an Aero - though thy don't here look as comically oversized as the ones that were on the first batch of Aero-for-IHs compared to the same models Aero sold itself. Of course, that's purely personal preference: a lot of people prefer the chunkier zip as they feel it's easier to use, or justl ike the look. It's something I personally avoid as it gives a jacket a very distinct post-1968ish vibe to my eye, but that's just me. The double-ended zip is a feature a lot of folks like. It's also a markedly different cut than the other two - though perhaps the model might just be better in a size down?

The LW one I'm sure is a thing of beauty - Stuart may be a difficult character, but I've never seen him put out a weak product. My personal preference would probably be the Aero (with the handwarmers omitted), but you can't really go wrong with either if it's what you want. The great thing about the cafe racer style is that there are so many variations out there that you really can tkae your time and find the one that is just right for you. There are a few things I'd be thing about to narrow that down - e.g. do you want a one-piece back? (You seem unsure about the centre seam on the back of the IH). Does the hide matter? Are you looking, for instance, specifically for Horween FQHH CXL? That can narrow it down. Also, what details do you want - do you prefer old-school, vintage-correct size zip, or do you want something bigger? Do you want options like an inside pocket, tartan lining, w.h.y.? There's a cafe racer for everyone. I saw a really nice, tidy Schott one a couple of months ago in a second hand store here for GBP100; I'd have considered it even though they're not really 'me' if I'd not been skint at the time.

Price-wise, if you're looking at Aero and are ready to pay upfront, you can make a very significant saving now over a year or two ago; as of today (3 August 2016), the pound is still down at USD1.33 => GBP1.00 (compare that to the 2008 peak of USD2.20 to the pound!!).

 

[Carlos840]

That IH cafe racer is made in Japan, i agree that it is weird, and i haven't seen a picture of it fitting well yet.
In my opinion it is far too wide at the waist and never looks right...

LW is apparently really nice, but i have heard that Stuart can be hard to deal with. And only accepts returns on stock items.
If you need extra length in the body or sleeves and the fit is somewhat wrong, you are screwed.

Aero is IMO your best shot, especialy if you go through insurrection they seem to have great succes with fittign people.

Schott are good too, but IMO are very overpriced for what they are since the last price hike, I own a 644 that i got for $450 a few years back, and it is decent at that price, but there is no way it is worth the current asking price of $750.

 

[lina]

Thanks for the feedback, and would love more...

LW quality seems very good overall, but as some have pointed out their zippers can kinda suck. But I do like that jacket.

The IH is made in Japan by Four Speed Leathers. I imagine it's pretty good quality, but yeah takes some getting used to. I also suspect that the Chromed HH leather looks much shinier in the pics than in real life. Here are two more pics, one in more natural light, and one showing the side gussets, which are kind of interesting, and might perhaps ameliorate the apparent wideness of the waist:

 

[HoosierDaddy]

A try on jacket through Thurston Bros is the ultimate for fit since that is 'most important' regardless of style. They work with you to get it right the first time (which in many cases without this option can be a disaster) + they sell several brands. Couldn't be easier. Check out their 'affiliate' thread in the outerwear section.
HD

 

[Fanch]

Good advice from HD above ^^^^^^

 

[Grayland]

A try on jacket through Thurston Bros is the ultimate for fit since that is 'most important' regardless of style. They work with you to get it right the first time (which in many cases without this option can be a disaster) + they sell several brands. Couldn't be easier. Check out their 'affiliate' thread in the outerwear section.
HD

I agree 100%. In addition to Aero, Thurston Brothers offers Vanson and Thedi, who both make nice cafe racers. Fit is everything. An ill-fitting Aero or LW is just going to look like a $1000+ mistake - and you'll be selling it here for $650.

 

[Seb Lucas]

If you want a thick one for riding I think the best looking one is a Vanson PLU -3 available from Thurston for under a $800.

 

[ton312]

That d pocket at the chest is an absolute thing of beauty and one could argue it's a functional pocket as well. I like them all but as HD mentioned above you've got the best shot at fit perfection with Thurston Bros. it's an absolute fail safe and they are great to deal with. Stu was fine by me when I purchased my LW jacket but he's not out to make any friends or chit chat. He's just all business. He turns stuff around pretty quick but you won't get the hand holding you get from Thurston. They are fantastic at dealing with impatient customers (myself being probably the worst). I don't think you could go wrong with any but the biggest gamble is the IH. I considered it once but as Carlos said all fit pics are just very meh. I'd be keeping my eye on Aeros sale page. You might find just what your after with very little wait at all in late August. This assuming you've got your numbers lined up and wouldn't require a fit jacket.

 

[ProteinNerd]

I prefer the Aero but with the full action back. I find that either the plain back or just the shoulder gussets leaves too much excess room floating about back there...just my 2 cents.

 

[Plumbline]

Funilly enough I just pushed the button on a new Cafe Racer ... having moved a fewf jackets on ( including my Rush Vanson, Beck and Vanson Cafe Racers ).

My thoughts re. yours ...

1. I have no experience of IH jackets made in Japan .. but you won't go wrong with LW or Aero they do fit neat though IMHO ( if you're in the US an Aero through Thurston with their Fit Jacket option is a perfect way to get the sizing and styling spot on ) .. Stu also knows his stuff and can talk the sizing on the phone like no-one else.
2. Don't discount the Schott 141 ... it's a GREAT jacket and does everything it says on the tin ( at a fraction of the price of the Aero / IH / LW options )
3. The Vanson Options either made-to-measure or Off The Shelf are excellent ... they make stunning jackets but make sure you try before you buy or go and get measured properly at a Vanson Dealership. If you're using it on a bike and based in the US this is where I'd go !

Other than that .. if it's style you want and money is no option look at the Thedi options ( some beautiful jackets ) or Himel Bros .... both of whom make a Cafe Racer like it was in the 40's and 50's.

Last but not least don't discount Diamond Dave's options or indeed .... if you can wait ... what Goodwear have to offer ... some really nice authentic features.

 

[Plumbline]

Wearing them on the bike ( Just MHO guys ... and based on personal experience )

Collar

- I'm not a fan of the single button ( Buco style ) lets in a draught and presses into the throat OR the double stud flap option It's OK fastened but unfastened it just flapps about and is a pain.
- The Scott 141 style collar is the best all round option I've found
- Collar placement and sizing is critical ( the adams apple effect) ... Vanson have perfected this

Back

- Short or long Bi-swing is a must you need the fredom to stretch for the bars without the jacket riding up or the sleeves going overly short ( stretch panels weren't invented for no reason )
- One piece back and a slightly longer back than front ( it has to be subtle)
- I like the double thickness kidney panel ... if only for the reasurance, warmth and support .. especially when leaned forward on a Thruxton !

Zips

- No. 8 zips minimum ... small zips with gloves are a PAIN and small zips on MC jackets more of a pain
- Gussets on sleeves ( one of the reasons I prefer medium weight leather ... these are a pain in thick leather ) otherwise if the zip is not done up properly ( or slides up in use) the wind just whistles through the zip/gap and up your arms ( for this reason sleeve and wrist dimensions are important)

Windflap

- you need one ... otherwise the wind just whistles through the zip

Pockets

- I don't need or use chest pockets
- I DO use and need handwarmer pockets and at least one inside pocket
- whatever you choose it they need zips ( some prefer "up" is open as opposed to down is open - I've had both- both work )

Leather

- An emotive topic ... overly thick hide just feels heavy and unweildy to me on the bike I much prefer mid weight hide and an armour shirt than hevy hide and movement like Robocop !



If you're wearing it off the bike then anything goes

Just my tuppenth-worth .....

 

[TREEMAN]

IMO the lower back panel of the LW's is too big on some of there jackets. Its more noticeable when someone is wearing it rather than in pics. Never heard of IH, but the back of there's looks a little like the model B. I think its Aero all the way..........

 

[sweetfights]

I have a padded Thedi Cafe Racer Phenix in Buffalo Caffe brown, I am picking up tomorrow.
But, I received one month ago a 4 oz LW Easy Ryder. I confess I have been a fan of LW but this is truly the finest Cafe Racer I could imagine. The fit is perfect. The look is amazing. The photo's on the LW website do not do most of the jackets justice. The Easy Ryder was actually a much trimmer fit than expected, to my delight. I ordered a 42 regular. I am 5 feet 9 inches with a muscular build, 185 pounds.
I did get the Easy Ryder in black and added an upgraded front brass zipper with 26 inch sleeves. I cannot say enough good things about this jacket.
And this is the 6th LW jacket purchase for me. Three I sold because I did not realize I needed the longer sleeves. The front stock zippers never impressed me but the upgraded scovil certainly impresses!!!

 

[sweetfights]

Funilly enough I just pushed the button on a new Cafe Racer ... having moved a fewf jackets on ( including my Rush Vanson, Beck and Vanson Cafe Racers ).

My thoughts re. yours ...

1. I have no experience of IH jackets made in Japan .. but you won't go wrong with LW or Aero they do fit neat though IMHO ( if you're in the US an Aero through Thurston with their Fit Jacket option is a perfect way to get the sizing and styling spot on ) .. Stu also knows his stuff and can talk the sizing on the phone like no-one else.
2. Don't discount the Schott 141 ... it's a GREAT jacket and does everything it says on the tin ( at a fraction of the price of the Aero / IH / LW options )
3. The Vanson Options either made-to-measure or Off The Shelf are excellent ... they make stunning jackets but make sure you try before you buy or go and get measured properly at a Vanson Dealership. If you're using it on a bike and based in the US this is where I'd go !

Other than that .. if it's style you want and money is no option look at the Thedi options ( some beautiful jackets ) or Himel Bros .... both of whom make a Cafe Racer like it was in the 40's and 50's.

Last but not least don't discount Diamond Dave's options or indeed .... if you can wait ... what Goodwear have to offer ... some really nice authentic features.

Well said!!!!

 

[AeroFan_07]

I suppose I am partial, taken back in March of this year. Poor quality but gives an idea of how Aero's Cafe Racer breaks in with Steerhide. Better pictues and review coming when time permits.

 

[lina]

Thanks guys, all very helpful indeed. I agree that fit is paramount, without that right all the rest is useless. I've found a retail shop that has the LW in my size and is returnable, so I may give that a try and go from there.

But complicating matters is that I just came across this Himel Bros "Pinecrest Racing Jacket." Himel is of course usually at the top of anybody's price bracket, but this one is more reasonable. "Reasonable" being relative of course, but when you're looking at $1000 to begin with, then all of the sudden $1350 doesn't seem as crazy as it might. (And who will know if I raid my daughter's college fund..?) Anyway, pics below. The first two from the website look fantastic to me. The one fit pic I found, maybe less fantastic:

 

[nick123]

One more vouch for Aero

 

[technovox]

Given the first three choices- I would easily choose the Aero. I like the simplicity of Aero's design, and to me that was the original intent of the cafe racer. Just two chest pockets, simple back with no action/no gussets. There's a beauty in minimalism of the classic cafe racer. Form meets function, no more, no less needed.
A D-pocket on a cafe racer (or whatever you want to call that pocket) just seems wrong to me. Not that I don't like D-pockets, but the IH just seems overdone.