Brad Bowers
I'll Lock Up
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Finally found the patent for the Cavanagh Edge.
John Cavanagh was first granted a patent for his edge 25 February 1913. From the patent:
"Hitherto, it has never been thought possible that a hat could be formed with the edge turned over and felted in to the brim, or that any felt fabric could be felted to another felt fabric; but I have discovered that by making the fold in the early stages of the sizing, this may be done, and that by so doing, a turned-edge hat may be made, the fold integral with the brim as though made in one felting operation, and yet showing the turned edge and obscuring the inner edge."
Per his directions, the hat bodies are removed from the cone and dipped into scalding water - the sizing, or felting process. During this process, though, the edge is folded back on itself and temporarily sewn to hold it down during the remainder of the sizing process. After the felting is finished, the stitches are removed.
A second patent was granted to Cavanagh on 19 May 1931, which improved upon his original edge with the application of additional felt to the edge to give it more strength. Figure 2 below shows the folded edge, with the inserted strip of felt. Figure 3 is a rolled version of his edge, and Figure 4 is what is perhaps known as the balloon welt, though he doesn't call it as such. Figure 5 is the best known Cavanagh edge, also showing the additional insert of felt.
The grain of the inserted strip is at right angles to the brim's grain, which is what gives it the added strength.
Anyone interested in reading it for themselves can go to http://www.uspto.gov and search for patent number 1,805,977.
Brad
John Cavanagh was first granted a patent for his edge 25 February 1913. From the patent:
"Hitherto, it has never been thought possible that a hat could be formed with the edge turned over and felted in to the brim, or that any felt fabric could be felted to another felt fabric; but I have discovered that by making the fold in the early stages of the sizing, this may be done, and that by so doing, a turned-edge hat may be made, the fold integral with the brim as though made in one felting operation, and yet showing the turned edge and obscuring the inner edge."
Per his directions, the hat bodies are removed from the cone and dipped into scalding water - the sizing, or felting process. During this process, though, the edge is folded back on itself and temporarily sewn to hold it down during the remainder of the sizing process. After the felting is finished, the stitches are removed.
A second patent was granted to Cavanagh on 19 May 1931, which improved upon his original edge with the application of additional felt to the edge to give it more strength. Figure 2 below shows the folded edge, with the inserted strip of felt. Figure 3 is a rolled version of his edge, and Figure 4 is what is perhaps known as the balloon welt, though he doesn't call it as such. Figure 5 is the best known Cavanagh edge, also showing the additional insert of felt.
The grain of the inserted strip is at right angles to the brim's grain, which is what gives it the added strength.
Anyone interested in reading it for themselves can go to http://www.uspto.gov and search for patent number 1,805,977.
Brad
It is not glued either. 
