Designing first Aero

[minisoda]

After several years and buying an AL Roadster that didn't fit me well, I've started the process of ordering an Aero. I'm sure there will be several questions along the way, and would love your feedback!

I love the Highwayman look, but learned with the Roadster that I definitely want something a little longer. I have a really nice cafe racer from Johnson Leather that I LOVE, but it's more of a spring/fall jacket. I'd like for this to be the cold weather jacket that gets me through the MN winter.

Here is what I have planned so far:

- Aero Plainsman size 42 (recommended by Ken @ Aero after looking at my measurements)
- leaning toward Seal or Dark Seal Vicenza
- unsure on lining.. I want a warm jacket, but also want to easily put the jacket over sweater without getting bound up or tight. Possibly an arm lining that slides easier with a warmer lining for the body
- also thinking about having them sew a pocket for back protector so I can wear this on my motorcycle / I have purpose built motorcycle gear but would be a shame not to enjoy this jacket as much as possible

Questions:

- Is "Italian Horsehide" the same as Thurstons Italian Vicenza?
- Thoughts on the fit of a size 42 plainsman? I want a clean fit, but NOT at the expense of comfort or the ability to layer and stay warm. I'm 5'9" and wear a 40r suit jacket. 175lb.
- I've read quite a few threads praising the Vicenza over some of the heavier cuts that take a long time to break in. Any downside? Wonder if I would give up any warmth?
- What kind of turn around time am I looking at? Would be nice to actually have it before winter is over!

Thanks for any advice.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Why not ask Thurston for a try on jacket to better insure the fit you want. Possibly they would even have one in the hide that you are curious about. Much better than guessing, miss-measuring, or over thinking...
HD

 

[minisoda]

Great call - I will reach out to them!

 

[Sloan1874]

Generally, Aero’s jacket sleeves are lined with hard wearing cotton sateen which means they slip on easily and don’t bind. I’ve heard of people having mole skin or cord, but I think that’s over egging the pudding.

 

[handymike]

I would opt for Sateen over Cotton Drill.

 

[MeachamLake]

- What kind of turn around time am I looking at? Would be nice to actually have it before winter is over!

Thanks for any advice.

I enquired about an A2 from Aero last week, and the reply I got was 10-12 weeks at the moment.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Check Thurston Brothers current stock page (there's a thread on here), may just have a close match and no wait time.

 

[Edward]

Generally, Aero’s jacket sleeves are lined with hard wearing cotton sateen which means they slip on easily and don’t bind. I’ve heard of people having mole skin or cord, but I think that’s over egging the pudding.

My 2010 Bootlegger cane with moleskin in the sleeves. Nice, but it certainly makes it warmer and puts a limit on the upper temperatures in which it can be worn.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I would definitely go with sateen in the arms/sleeves if you can. Cotton drill works fine as well. Anything more is overkill.
You can't go wrong with Seal or Dark Seal Vicenza. Both are gorgeous.

 

[El Marro]

I have moleskin in the sleeves of both my Aero's, a Bootlegger and a Teamster. I find it to be very comfortable and I would definitely recommend this for a cold weather jacket.
Regarding your question about warmth, the choice of Vincenza or any other hide is not nearly as important as the choice of lining and also insuring that there is room to throw a heavy shirt or sweater on under the jacket when you choose to. Leather makes a great windbreaker, but by itself it does not offer much warmth when it is really cold out.

 

[AeroFan_07]

^^ Absolutely. In fact it can soak in the cold (Minnesota temps and wind) and make you colder yet.

 

[minisoda]

Thanks everyone. I have an order in with Thurston Brothers. Carrie is awesome to work with.

They are sending a 1930s Half Belt (they modify to make it slightly longer) to try for fit in one of the Seal finishes. I'm leaning toward Seal Vicenza, but also looking at all the other browns including Russet Vicenza which would be a little more edgy.

Going to be a fun process and will keep everyone updated.

 

[minisoda]

I received the fit jacket from Thurston yesterday. Initially I thought about moving a different direction all together (Teamster?), but trying it on again this morning I felt like it might work in a different leather finish. Here are my thoughts... would love your feedback.

- collar seems a bit massive
- dark seal Vicenza is nice but maybe a bit too formal and just doesn't have the character I'm looking for... looking for a little more variation in the tone and thinking "battered tan" or "Russett Vicenza"
- overall fit is pretty good... maybe a just a bit tight. I am looking for a comfortable jacket that I love to wear, not a slim modern fit. Might get pretty damn tight with a thick sweater or vest underneath.
- not sure I like the front "dip" in the jacket. I like that the front is a bit longer - just not sure what to think of the variation between front and back.
- Cotton plaid lining is pretty thin. Since this is my cold weather jacket, wondering if I should go with the wool lining. Thurston sent a sample that feels really soft a just a bit thicker.

in summary, I think I want a different leather and prefer the straighter lines of the plainsman or teamster. I took a couple of quick pics this morning before running out the door... sorry for the mirror pics, but this will give you an idea of fit.

Let me know your thoughts!

 

[El Marro]

Looks like both sleeve and jacket length are pretty good. The overall fit looks good as well. If you were planning to wear this jacket in a milder climate, such as Northern California where I am, then I would say it is a perfect fit. Since it actually gets cold where you live I agree that you probably want a little more room for a heavy sweater.
Regarding the lining you should definitely check out the available wool options. Aero has a Harris Tweed that is really something special and I would ask for a sample of that.
Finally, I agree with you about the dark seal looking a little too formal on this jacket. The russet Vincenza looks particularly nice on the 30s Half Belt. I think that is the direction I would go if I were you.
It's been a little while since I was in your shoes, confronted with so many options and decisions to make in order to create the perfect jacket. It can be daunting and even stressful at times, remember to have some fun while you're doing it!

 

[Carlos840]

I think Vincenza doesn't really have character, it's couch leather to me, nice uniform grain, even colour, not very interesting... And it doesn't show much aging.
If you want character go with brown FQHH, and i say that as someone who never liked brown until i got one!

I have two of the same jacket, one with cotton, one with Strome (heaviest weight) tartan, the warmth difference is somewhat noticeable, but not life changing.
You will still be cold in freezing weather with Strome tartan unless you layer heavily. Leather is not a good insulator, and there is only so much a thin wool lining can do.
If you really want it to be a cold weather jacket, alpaca or fleece are probably the way to go.

 

[handymike]

If that is a straight 30s HB, than that's a standard Aero collar. For a longer jacket, the Long half-belt and Teamster are great options. If you are looking for a Winter jacket, you might consider a wool lining- or even Alpaca (its not actually as hot as you might think.) I personally prefer Steerhide to the CXL horse, but Aero's brown FQHH is indeed a very nice color that ages nicely.

 

[nick123]

I think the fit is pretty darn good. The leather choice is up to you. As Carlos said, the Vicenza has little natural color variation when new (it may or may not take on different colors when worn), but is a rather comfortable horse, which is why I like it. You will find more initial color variation with either a Chromexcel FQHH/Steerhide or the other mid-weights. But it looks very nice as is.

 

[handymike]

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/examples-of-heavily-used-aero-leather.89168/
Here is a thread where you can see how certain Aero leathers age.
(Only 1/2 killed by photobucket)

 

[minisoda]

Great feedback - glad to know I'm not crazy on the Dark Seal Vicenza seeming "flat". Brown FQHH was high on my list, so will definitely look closer there as well. That really reduces the decisions to figuring out what jacket style I want to go with. Still have my eye on that Teamster!

 

[minisoda]

I’ve narrowed down the decision to a size 42 Teamster in Brown FQHH. I love the look of tumbled, but figure I’ll just get there naturally. I’ll stick with my Johnson Leather cafe racer for a slightly shorter fall/spring jacket. Want to go with function and warmth on this one.

I looked around quite a bit last night and seems like the back length on a 42 is around 28.5” measured from the bottom of the collar. Can anyone confirm?

Also, how much roomier than the 1930s HB will the Teamster be? Both in 42.

There definitely less Teamsters out there and photobucket debacle is making it hard to find examples. If anyone has pics of a Teamster in the finishes above, please post!

Also, thinking about olive drab or rust stitching for just a little contrast.

Thanks all