"Replacing sweatband?" :: The Followup

[MrPumpernickel]

I posted a short while ago about replacing the sweatband on two of my hats and after being in contact with Bud I got my hands on some new sweats. I figured I'd do a followup with an amateur's first experience with resewing a sweatband.

These are the hats in question, albeit a wee bit dusty they're otherwise in great quality.

A Stacy Adams bowler:
<img src="http://www.mousevomit.com/brothel/stacyadamsbowler.jpg">

...and a Mayser fedora (says Marino Cordial Leicht on a sticker under the lining, whatever that means):
<img src="http://www.mousevomit.com/brothel/mayserfedora.jpg">

The damage on the bowler's sweatband is only at one point, but it's a clear split so a replacement is in order. It hurts me a bit to replace since I really like the look of the whip stitching (I think that's what it's called) since I'd replace it with a sweatband sewn through the reed. Though I'd prefer actually wearing the hat instead of just keeping it on my shelf.

The damage:
<img src="http://www.mousevomit.com/brothel/stacyadamsbowlerdamage.jpg">

Now for the horror story, the damage on the sweatband on the fedora makes me sad for the rest of the hat, it's cracked so far beyond repair you might as well name it Humpty Dumpty. Sensitive viewers may wish to look away:

<img src="http://www.mousevomit.com/brothel/mayserfedoradamage.jpg">

It's a second-hand hat and the sweatband looked really nice upon purchase, just a bit stiff. After sweating in it for the first time it cracked up something fierce upon drying. I guess that's my fault for not treating it with a leather conditioner first thoguh.

I haven't sewn in the new sweatbands yet, will probably do so tomorrow or this weekend. If anyone has any pointers or things to think about when doing the deed by all means step forward.

I'll keep you updated on the progress

 

[RBH]

No pointers..... but good luck!

 

[Fridaynight]

Good luck, I look forward to seeing the results.

 

[Mark G]

I've found it very tough to put the sweat in without the proper experiece and machine. What I found that worked for me is to place the sweat in the hat where I want it and tack (sew) the space in between the sweat and the reed to the hat in several places to make sure that you don't have puckers and to maintain the proper line up of the sweat to the break in the brim. You are going to have to take the ribbon off and not be shy on how many times you make your tacks. I've even gone all around the hat. I use a small needle and fine thread. After I do this I then turn the sweat inside out and sew in the sweat the proper way, the reeded part to the hat not the leather using a heaver upholsterers thread. When that's done I take the tacks I first put in out. Those holes should not be visible. Also I've found that (in the final stiching) if I layout the stiches on the outside of the hat using a contrasting colored pencil they are more even. If you do go a bit astray on the stiching the ribbon on the hat will cover it up.

Here's a picture of a sweat I made that I sewed into a hat. (posted before)

Also be prepared do this more than once as it may not come out perfect and you might have to do it again.

This is not the conventional way I'm sure, but it's worked for me.

 

[MrPumpernickel]

Thanks everyone for the well wishes

<b>Mark G</b>, yeah, I figured out I'd need some tacking stitches to hold it into place. I don't really care about conventional ways of doing things, as long as it works and preferably looks good I'm happy

The removal of the sweatband and ribbon went alright anyway, going to sew in the new one tonight as long as I can get my sewing machine fired up to join the sweatband in the back first. I couldn't really get hold of upholsterers thread so I opted for a strong, but still fairly thin, polyester thread instead. I may just have to double up on it to be on the safe side, so I'm hoping it'll be enough, and it looks to be a good analogue for the thread which were in the sweatband I just removed.

I'm considering switching out the gray felt ribbon for a black (or gray, or white) grosgrain ribbon instead. Though I've read that there are places which claim to sell grosgrain ribbons which aren't truly grosgrain. Is there anyone who could recommend a reputable source (for online ordering I might add)?

 

[Ande1963]

Wow... I'm in awe of you guys! I can maybe sew a button back on a shirt, but the thought of using a machine to do something as precise as replacing a sweatband makes my brain hurt!

Kinda like my brain would hurt if I ever attempted such a thing... from the band and stray stitches poking into my scalp.

Anj

 

[Jay]

I wish I could offer some ideas, but my attempt at re-stitching a sweatband ended in frustration and failure. I think I'm just going to take it to a hatshop, but good luck to you.

 

[MrPumpernickel]

<b>Ande1963</b>, the only thing I'm stitching on the machine is the ends of the sweatband so they form a continous loop. Stitching the band to the hat itself would require a machine quite different from the one I have, so hand stitching it is.

I've sewn clothes in the past though, it's just been a while since I did any proper hand stitching, so we'll see how it goes.

<b>Jay</b>, it may well end in frustration and failure here too, but I don't have anything to lose since the distance to the closest proper hat store is about 1000km and who knows how much longer to the closest person who makes hats for a living.

Oh well, tonight is the night, I've procrastinated too long

 

[MrPumpernickel]

I tried, and failed. Or rather, I tried, found out the thread I had was substandard and figured I really need to get myself something stronger. Guess I'll head off to the local furniture repairman during the week to check if he has any upholstery thread that a) is strong enough b) won't be so thick so my machine eats it.

Hand sewing a few stitches to keep it together and salvaging the ferrule from the old sweatband was no problem though.

Small steps, haha. Small steps indeed

Oh well, this gives me time to give the fedora a wee bit of a stretch to accomodate for the slightly larger sweatband

 

[Dalexs]

Don't sweat it.. (get it, don't sweat it... [huh] )

The first time I tried replacing a sweatband, I think I removed the stitches 3 or 4 times and started over. It's the one thing I hate doing, especially because I have to do it by hand.

My last hat I almost toyed with bringing it down to thelocal shoe smith and see if he could stitch it in with his sewing machine.
He has one in the shop hat looks just like some I've seen posted here and there by our local hatters.

Keep on it. You'll discover different techniques as part of the
repetition of doing a few times. some better then others.

Dalexs

 

[Ande1963]

I was thinking more about this thread today, and started to wonder about an old Stetson I have here. It fits okay... a little snug, and the color os unique in my collection. The sweatband, though, is a mess. It's torn and worn.

Anyway, I started thinking about this hat, and about replacing the band. It's not, frankly, nice enough to pay for Optimo to work on. Now that I know a machine is not involved in the process, I'm curious.

But, Bud is now sold out of bands. Anyone have ideas for other sources for decent sweatbands?

Thanks,
Anj

 

[Kilroy]

''But, Bud is now sold out of bands. Anyone have ideas for other sources for decent sweatbands?''


I got mine from Bud before he ran out. A while back, someone mentioned J W Hats. (See Making a Hat sticky)
I inquired via email but never got a reply. Maybe if you phoned. The number is somewhere in the sticky, or just google J W Hats.

 

[Ande1963]

Our own deanglan is gonna hook me up for now (what a great place this is!).

I'll come back soon and let you know how it's going.

Anj