The Complete Guide to suits: 57 Rules of Style

[Hal]

I'm sorry, but a sports jacket, blazer or suit worn with an open-necked shirt looks bad to me - sloppy and unfinished. I am aware that this look was sometimes sported in the "Golden Era", but that period is not my ideal; I look more to the period around 1960, when such a look was considered bad form - it had disappeared by about 1955 and did not reappear until the early 1970s. Now (sadly) it's everywhere.

I am also surprised how many men are sans hat or cap.

I don't know about France, but in Britain hat-wearing was on the decline by the mid 1930s.

 

[Metatron]

I'm sorry, but a sports jacket, blazer or suit worn with an open-necked shirt looks bad to me - sloppy and unfinished.

Well, you are entitled to your opinion. I suppose.
[huh]

 

[Tomasso]

I'm sorry, but a sports jacket, blazer or suit worn with an open-necked shirt looks bad to me - sloppy and unfinished........I look more to the period around 1960, when such a look was considered bad form

Actually, the look you decry was sported by some of the eras sartorial icons.


The Rat Pack:

Cary Grant:

 

[Tomasso]

Oh and Fred Astaire:

And Gary Cooper:

I can post more but I think you get the picture.

 

[McPeppers]

Honestly, I would not begrudge anyone wearing the polo and sport coat combo. To be honest, I would applaud them for at least dressing up their polo. These days, most would opt not to even bother.

In fact one of my own personal favorite looks is my khaki colored pant, high quality polo, sweater vest, and blazer. I get at least some bonus points for wearing it in South Florida.


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[Hal]

Actually, the look you decry was sported by some of the eras sartorial icons.

By some - so what? On this island it was usually regarded as the height, or rather depth, of "bad taste". It is possible that this may be a UK/USA cultural difference. But I have the gut feeling that you are simply trying to put me down.

Honestly, I would not begrudge anyone wearing the polo and sport coat combo. I would applaud them for at least dressing up their polo...In fact one of my own personal favorite looks is my khaki colored pant, high quality polo, sweater vest, and blazer.

That is not the look I dislike so much (and in fact the wearing of a V-necked jumper by one of A.C. Lyles's examples mitigates that look). A roll-necked jumper with a sports jacket, or a polo shirt plus V-neck under a sports jacket, can look fine. But, with respect, I cannot see how adding a jacket ca dress up casual clothes worn beneath it.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Hm I doubt it is just an american thing. Casual, yes. But not "bad form"
There are many british examples from the 30s and 40s in the book "Menswear- Vintage people on photo postcards". I bought it after HBK recommended it here. It's a nice little book with many earlier styles too.

PS: I don't criticize your taste. It's good to have some standards to build a personal style. (I personally hate Loafers, deck shoes, monk straps, red trousers and other things favoured by bloggers and "preppy" guys) but I kinda dislike the idea to build a fast set of "rules" for others if they don't have any other basis than personal taste.

 

[Edward]

Overall, nowhere near as bad as I would have expected, if clearly aimed at a more contemporary aesthetic than would be for me. Mostly presented as guidelines, though there are a few with which I would take exception.

Rule #13
When wearing corduroy, steer clear of fusty wide wales, but don't go so narrow that the material starts to look like velvet.

I find wider wale much more hardwearing, much more aesthetically pleasing, and much more accurate for the country-set look, if that is what one desires.

Rule #27
Go For Side Vents
"Most of the suits being made on Savile Row have two vents because it's considered almost cheap work to do fewer. A jacket with one vent or no vents uses much less cloth, and it's much less sewing."

The tone of this one does seem to rather fly in the face of their discouraging the poseur wearing working jacket-buttons open... Personally, I lean to the view that vent style, or lack of vents, is a personal choice. I prefer the look of a suit jacket without them, but this comes down to cut and intended purpose.

Rule #33
✓ Your pants should sit at your waist (not your hips). You should be able to fit one finger into the waistband comfortably.

Presumably this only considers the wearing of belted trousers. Ideally, for wearing with braces I would prefer my trousers a size larger than I would look for with a belt (and possibly very slightly lower in the crotch to facilitate bending over).

Rule #34
A double-breasted overcoat should be slim so it doesn't billow when open.

What's the point of a long overcoat if you don't get the billowing effect? I'm not talking wearing them comically big, but if there's no flare to it, why bother? I'm not some silly little mod, after all.

Rule #37
Like a gray suit, a gray overcoat is always in fashion.

You appear to be under the impression I care about your "fashion".

Rule #48
The black single-monk is the sleekest, most sophisticated, most versatile shoe around.

You say sophisticated, I suspect inability to tie ones' own shoelaces... Let's call the whole thing off, eh?

Rule #49
For a bit of Euro flair, wear a tasseled loafer with pants that graze the middle of your ankle.

Not on a drawer in the morgue.

Rule #51
Brogue boots add the perfect rugged touch to your favorite casual suit.

I love the term "casual suit". That's a definite step forward.

Rule #52
White face, gold indices, brown leather strap—you can't go wrong.

Unless your belt / shoes / braces tabs / suit / w.h.y. are black.

I disagree with the second part of rule 31: "Your jacket sleeves should reveal about half an inch of shirt cuff. If they don't, try a short size instead—you could save yourself a trip to the tailor later on."

I disagree with the idea of getting a short size if it means the body length would be too short. I'd rather pay to have the cuffs shortened.

Agreed.

"A slightly cropped overcoat will elongate your silhouette."

They illustrate this with an overcoat that reaches the mid-thigh.

Note to author: a coat that only reaches the mid-thigh is not an overcoat!

Quite. A much better example here would have been Bogart's trenchcoat in Casablanca, which was either tailored or altered to reach only as far as his knees, in order to make him look taller than 5'8".

I agree that many of 'the rules' don't work with vintage suits. That said, it is always good to see people making an effort to wear suits - even if they aren't suits that i would wear.

Absolutely.

Working cuffs: Whilst I understand why people consider the opening of working cuff buttons as a bit flash, I often do it when eating. I like to open and turn back the cuffs to keep them out of the way. This may seem a bit over the top but it helps keeps the cuffs clean.

I believe many old tailors still refer to them as "surgeons' cuffs", the original design purpose being said to have been to permit rolling them up in the operating theatre, in order to avoid getting them in the messy end of an opened-up human. Same concept, really, keeping the jacket clean.

3. Polka Dots???

That one threw me too, until I looked at the accompanying photo and realised they meant the tie rather than the suit.

Rule 19 "when going without a tie"
No one, but no one, should ever wear a suit without a tie.

I'm not opposed to it myself providing it is worn well, like the French gentleman in the photo of wartime Paris, above: shirt collar out over the jacket collar... That said, I think it only really works well with a casual sports jacket and slacks. Early Elvis style - and even Elvis wore a tie much of the time. Unfortunately, what I think they refer to here is the shirt worn under the jacket in a way that simple looks like one has either forgotten one's cravat. It's a look that looks off to me no matter who does it.... and these days positively screams David Cameron, a man who whatever he is shall certainly never be an icon of style.

Rule #30
✓ Before buying a suit online, try it on in a store first to make sure the shoulders fit, as sizing varies widely among brands.

While I agree that you should try a suit on before buying it, I hope they aren't encouraging people to go into a store to waste the staff's time. Stores are not show rooms for their internet competition. Trying it in a store before purchasing on the same company's website is a little different, but still not fair to the sales person who's time you waste.

I would certainly agree if those sales staff work on commission or otherwise are obligated to meet sales targets.

Narrow cut trousers are the flavor of the day. As for the length, I'll take short over too long anyday.

Extremes of either look bad to me. It's not hard to have it cut right.

As for too long, I've yet to be convinced this looks good on any body type in any era.

I'm not sure those actually are too long, if they were pulled up to where they should sit rather than being belted somewhere halfway down the buttocks.

He buttoned the suit the wrong way. Kind of an understated way to stand out.

In the UK that would be considered buttoned to the ladies' side - does that concept exist in Continental Europe?

Actually, the look you decry was sported by some of the eras sartorial icons.


The Rat Pack:

Cary Grant:

Prime examples of what looks bad to me... just looks like they've pulled off their ties, or been disturbed while dressing and forgotten neckwear. The photos of the shirt collar out over the jacket look fine to me, but not these... These are the David Cameron School of Casual.

 

[Fastuni]

In the UK that would be considered buttoned to the ladies' side - does that concept exist in Continental Europe?

Yes. I suspect that the guy was either careless when buttoning or his suit had a significant damage/stain that he wanted to cover by buttoning the other way. His suit looks a bit tight as well - with the buttons moved a bit closer to fit.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I'd imagine the fabric on the "correct" side had worn down the front fold. A common issue in the day when people didn't own many clothes, and one of the real benefits of a double breasted jacket. With single breasted there's no elegant fix except recutting.

 

[Tomasso]

I have the gut feeling that you are simply trying to put me down.

Nope, simply refuting your erroneous assertion with photographic evidence to the contrary. As has been mentioned, it's one thing to have personal preferences (we all have them) but quite another to rewrite history in support of them.

 

[Hal]

Hm I doubt it is just an american thing...There are many british examples from the 30s and 40s in the book "Menswear- Vintage people on photo postcards".

Yes, but not from the period 1955-65, whose styles I prefer to those of the 1930s-40s

I don't criticize your taste. It's good to have some standards to build a personal style... but I kinda dislike the idea to build a fast set of "rules" for others if they don't have any other basis than personal taste.

I hope I'm not doing that - but are aesthetic judgements simply a matter of personal taste? I realise that I am treading on dangerous philosophical grounds, but I believe that there are objective standards and that beauty is not simply "in the eyes of the beholder".

I'm not opposed to it myself providing it is worn well, like the French gentleman in the photo of wartime Paris, above: shirt collar out over the jacket collar... That said, I think it only really works well with a casual sports jacket and slacks. Early Elvis style - and even Elvis wore a tie much of the time. Unfortunately, what I think they refer to here is the shirt worn under the jacket in a way that simple looks like one has either forgotten one's cravat. It's a look that looks off to me no matter who does it.... and these days positively screams David Cameron, a man who whatever he is shall certainly never be an icon of style.

Prime examples of what looks bad to me... just looks like they've pulled off their ties, or been disturbed while dressing and forgotten neckwear. The photos of the shirt collar out over the jacket look fine to me, but not these... These are the David Cameron School of Casual.

These are opinions close to mine. The open-necked shirt over the jacket collar was what was usually seen in the 1930s and 1940s.

Nope, simply refuting your erroneous assertion with photographic evidence to the contrary.

One swallow doesn't make a summer!

As has been mentioned, it's one thing to have personal preferences (we all have them) but quite another to rewrite history in support of them.

I am not trying to rewrite history, and I don't think you are either. But all the examples you give come from your side of the Atlantic, and I am describing from what I remember from my side of the Atlantic at the time.

 

[McPeppers]

But, with respect, I cannot see how adding a jacket ca dress up casual clothes worn beneath it.

That is a fair point. The way I see it suits and their parts are gradually disappearing from the workplace. Where I work a t-shirt and unripped jeans are acceptable these days. That is likely why I now consider a blazer or sport-coat as classing up because most of the time that forces a trade up from T-shirt to either polo or button up. Now the whole Jeans and sport-coat thing sort of negates my point so... i guess it is only classed up if the pants are slacks.


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[Hal]

That is a fair point. The way I see it suits and their parts are gradually disappearing from the workplace. Where I work a t-shirt and unripped jeans are acceptable these days. That is likely why I now consider a blazer or sport-coat as classing up because most of the time that forces a trade up from T-shirt to either polo or button up. Now the whole Jeans and sport-coat thing sort of negates my point so... i guess it is only classed up if the pants are slacks.

Good reasoning - I take your point. You are also living in a very warm climate, which is an important "casualising" agent in matters of clothing. In the UK we need to be reminded that Washington DC is south of Lisbon, and you are located a long way south of that.

 

[Guttersnipe]

This whole suits without ties discussion reminds me of the FL's infamous and long-running debate about the appropriateness of notch lapel tuxedos. Specifically, it seems to me that folks are applying modern tinted sensibilities classic sartorial conventions. In the dressed down 21st century, the suit has become (to many) a fancy dress formal costume worn only for the most rigidly formal occasions. As such, many 21st century men apply rigid standards/rules to suit wearing much like those applied in bygone eras to formal dress (i.e., white tie, morning dress) and semi-formal dress (i.e., black tie, stroller suits).

However, these sensibilities are anachronistic to the golden era (and to the 50s and 60s too). During those periods, in the U.S., Europe, and U.k., suits were an everyday clothing item and not considered at all formal. As such, depending on what you were up to, you might or might not wear a tie with a sport coat, blazer, or even a suit.

Here are some British style icons of the 50s and 60s sans ties:

Micheal Caine:

Peter O'toole:

Cary Grant:

 

[Hal]

This whole suits without ties discussion reminds me of the FL's infamous and long-running debate about the appropriateness of notch lapel tuxedos. Specifically, it seems to me that folks are applying modern tinted sensibilities classic sartorial conventions. In the dressed down 21st century, the suit has become (to many) a fancy dress formal costume worn only for the most rigidly formal occasions. As such, many 21st century men apply rigid standards/rules to suit wearing much like those applied in bygone eras to formal dress (i.e., white tie, morning dress) and semi-formal dress (i.e., black tie, stroller suits).

This is undoubtedly true.

However, these sensibilities are anachronistic to the golden era (and to the 50s and 60s too). During those periods, in the U.S., Europe, and U.k., suits were an everyday clothing item and not considered at all formal. As such, depending on what you were up to, you might or might not wear a tie with a sport coat, blazer, or even a suit.

I don't think this is correct for the 50s and 60s - and I was around at the time! Many wore sports jackets or blazers to work (always with a tie); these would have reserved suits to more formal occasions such as weddings and funerals, social occasions, often for church on Sunday. This was certainly my practice - and that of most in my profession (teaching).
I have no way of knowing whether the examples you cite were wearing these clothes in everyday life or whether the photographs are of them in action during their acting career. But it is surely the case that the silver screen is NOT always a true reflection of the everyday situation (there has been a discussion of this on FL concerning the wearing of hats.

 

[Guttersnipe]

I'm not sure about the U.K., but in the U.S., during the 50s and 60s, sport coats were not generally acceptable to wear for office work; they were more of a weekend item, or something worn by younger men like students. I wouldn't imagine that the U.K. would had laxer standards than those in the the U.S., but I suppose it's possible.

Those photos are: a studio portrait (Caine); candid personal shots (O'Toole); and a still from a film (Grant).

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Depends what business you were in. "Office" wear for both my grandfathers as council painters was old clothing and boiler suit. Wearing a boiler suit it didn't really matter what you were wearing underneath. No ties required!

 

[Hal]

Depends what business you were in.

Yes. indeed!

I'm not sure about the U.K., but in the U.S., during the 50s and 60s, sport coats were not generally acceptable to wear for office work; they were more of a weekend item, or something worn by younger men like students.

This is partly true for the UK; sports jackets would not have been acceptable in the City of London, for some businesses and for professions like law; but in the two educational establishments where I worked, only the principal (and some of the oldest teaching staff when I started teaching) wore a suit.

I wouldn't imagine that the U.K. would had laxer standards than those in the the U.S., but I suppose it's possible.

A common British perception of American styling in the period we are referring to was that American business dress was very conservative and very conformist indeed, while American casual dress was the opposite - "loud". Whether that perception was also fact, I simply don't know. But in adopting some tendencies towards "modern" styles - for example, the disappearance of the hat as everyday wear - Britain was certainly (for better or worse) earlier than the USA.

 

[Steveb1]

Rules! The items in this list are too vague to be rules. But the generation that follow this don't like rules, they like being vague.

Rules are distinct like:
A gentlemen's suit should fit
Cuff shown is 1/4 to 1/2 an inch (3/4 to 1 inch for formal wear)
When a gentlemen stands his jacket is buttoned (2 Button- Top only, 3-Button - Top or Middle)
When a gentlemen sits his jacket is unbuttoned (except doublebreast always stay buttoned)
When a gentlemen stands you cannot see his socks
.... and so on
Those are rules!