What do you guys think about the Sterlingwear Navigator Pea Coat?

[ykim888]

Hi,

I'm new to this forum and would like to extend my greeting to all of the members on this forum.

I have been thinking about getting the Sterlingwear Navigator Pea Coat, but have some concerns that I might get the wrong size.

Any thoughts about this Pea Coat?

Any members who have the Navigator pea coat, please help~

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[Tkecks]

I have a sterlingwear ex-navy 44L peacoat, and I am very happy with it. I suppose I would say, unless you want a color other than black, why bother with the civilian version at RRP US$250+ when you can pick up surplus or 2nd hand for half that price... or considerably less than that: I got mine for $30 and its virtually new. If you're a smaller size you could even pick up a vintage, which are even nicer.

 

[Jingo Mastapone]

Yes, I agree that a vintage military issue corduroy pocket pea coat is one of the best values out there for outerwear. And as for sizing, I am a nominal size 42 but I have two vintage pea coats--one sz 40 and one sz 36 and I can wear them both just fine. The 36 is better with less layers under it but generally speaking, you have quite a bit of latitude here.

 

[Peacoat]

First of all, welcome to the Lounge. Below are some comments on fit that should help you. For more information, please see the sticky on peacoat dating at the top of this page. It discusses vintage pea coats and has a sizing guide toward the end.

I agree with the advice to get a vintage (pre 1980) peacoat, but if you want a current issue, then they are available on ebay at a substantial discount. Or if you want a new peacoat, the Mil Spec peacoat from Sterlingwear is the way to go. They are special order and aren't listed on the company website.

Prior to 1980 most of the Navy pea coats were made of what the Navy called "Kersey." It is a thick, soft and tightly woven wool. In 1980 the Navy switched to "Melton" wool. It is looser woven and not as smooth or as nice as the pre 1980 coats.

All of Sterlingwear's current civilian pea coats are either a wool blend or, if 100% wool, then they are a relatively light weight 24 oz. wool. For comparison, the vintage coats were 32 oz. wool, which is quite heavy. Their pea coats all have a Melton shell.

Peacoats are designed for men who have started to fill out, who have put on some weight from their adolescent years and who have developed some muscle. They aren't designed for someone who is 5'11" and 145 lbs. with no body fat and little muscle.

For my height, I am perfectly proportioned. In other words the peacoat model is based on someone with my measurements, so it is easy for me to find a peacoat that fits well. To give an example of fit, my chest measures 42". A size 42 vintage Navy peacoat is a good fit for me and allows room for a sweater underneath. It isn't a tight fit, but it is a practical fit. If I don't need a sweater on a particular day--say the temps are in the low 40s--I can wear a size 40 peacoat. There is no room for a sweater, but the fit is slim. Still comfortable but slim. The size 40 fits closer to the body and is warmer without a sweater than the 42. There is no way I can wear a size 38 peacoat, even with only a T-shirt. These comments are based on standard measurements, as discussed below. There are pea coats outside of the norm.

I mention the stated tag size of the pea coats, but the most important number is the actual measured pit to pit width. Most, or perhaps all, of my size 42 pea coats measure right at 22.25". My size 40 peacoat measures 21.25". These are the standard measurements in those sizes for vintage (pre 1980) Navy pea coats. While perhaps 90% of the coats have the same p2p for these tag sizes, some are a bit larger. That is why I stress the importance of first measuring the circumference of one's chest and then getting an accurate p2p measurement from the seller. While usually an accurate guide, the stated tag size can be different from the actual size of the peacoat. Doesn't happen often, but it does happen.

So, if one wants a slim fit with a 42" chest, the size 40 peacoat would be the one to look for (in the vintage models). For a measured chest of 40" the size 38 would be the way to go. Assuming, of course, that the p2p is 20.25". For the smaller sizes, the p2p measurements are not what I would expect to see. I have three size 34 pea coats, each with a p2p of 19". We would expect these coats to have a tag size of 36, and to fit like a small size 36. I have also received numerous measurements from others with size 34 pea coats. Most of these also have a p2p of 19", although I have seen a few of a little over 18". So, when we get down into the smaller sizes, I'm not sure about an accurate guide to fit.

The WWII peacoats (8 buttons showing) will fit a little tighter than the vintage models (post war 1945--1946 to 1979), and the current issue (1980 through current) will be a little larger, in general, than the vintage models. For a slim fit in a WWII model, probably not a good idea to buy a peacoat a size smaller than one's measured chest size. For a current issue, one might want to go down two sizes, but this is beyond my level of expertise. I know sizing of vintage pea coats and not of the current issue. I do know that based on the tag size, the current issue coats are larger than the vintage coats, and substantially larger than the WWII models.

For sleeve length, I like the peacoat to strike at least an inch below the wrist joint. If it is longer than 1/2 way from the wrist to the web of the thumb, it is a bit too long.

These chest sizing guides are based on the US Navy pea coats only. I have no idea how makers of the fashion garments size their coats, but I imagine the p2p guide would still be valid. The body length and the sleeve length should be applicable to the fashion garments as well. The key is getting the seller to give an accurate p2p measurement. Also, in my opinion if one still has the body of an adolescent--no body fat and little muscle mass--It would be better to pursue a fashion peacoat, rather than the Navy peacoat.

Good luck on your quest. If you have more questions, please post. The guys here are mostly into the leather jackets, but they tolerate the real outerwear as well. PC.

 

[ykim888]

Thank you all for the info~ I wish I could find some vintage pea coats that would fit. In Korea, they only have small sizes available, mostly 34~38... and also the condition of some of the coats isn't very good. That is why I just want to get the Navigator brand new... the cheapest place I found is here http://www.sweatershoppe.com/sterlingmenpeacoat.html#sterling-n-M162. Are there any members that actually own the Navigator Pea Coat?

 

[DJH]

Hey ykin, I have a Navigator coat from Sterlingwear.

I usually wear a US42 jacket and that is what my coat is. We are lucky to have a Sterlingwear retail store in our town so I was able to try the different sizes.

I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have on the actual coat measurements compared to the tag size.

 

[too much coffee]

Make no mistake about it........brother Peacoat is the man!!

His information is flawless and it greatly assisted me in my purchase of a mint USN 1970 Kersey.

 

[Peacoat]

Thanks Coffee; I'm glad someone here recognizes my worth. It ain't easy being me.

 

[Grayland]

How did you pick the Navigator model? I've been thinking about the Authentic model. I have 2 vintage peacoats, a 1961 and a 1967, but would really like a grey version.

 

[ykim888]

Make no mistake about it........brother Peacoat is the man!!

His information is flawless and it greatly assisted me in my purchase of a mint USN 1970 Kersey.

I have great respect for Peacoat and all the other members, please don't get me wrong. I am grateful to everyone who is trying to help.

 

[ykim888]

How did you pick the Navigator model? I've been thinking about the Authentic model. I have 2 vintage peacoats, a 1961 and a 1967, but would really like a grey version.

I read on another forum that the Authentic is warmer in the beginning, but as time goes by, the fleece lining becomes less warmer. That is why I am wanting to go with the Navigator.

 

[ykim888]

Hi DJH,

If you could give me the measurements, I will greatly appreciate your help!~

1) Armpit-to-armpit measurement
2) Back of pea coat shoulder measurement
3) Shoulder to cuff measurement (outer arm)

Could you also please let me know what your chest size? I would like the Navigator Pea Coat to be a snug/ slim fit over a medium to lightweight sweater. I wear a size 42 suit because of my shoulders, but the waist is way too big, so I had to alter it. That is why my concern over sizing. My chest measures exactly 41 inches and my shoulders 20 inches.

thank you,

Ryan K.