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I love the Fed IV!!

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,160
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
..and they arrived today. Creasing these hats is going to be burdensome. Open or pinched telescope creases, while easy to do, may not fit them. And teardrop creases trigger my OCD if the side dents are not aligned :D
View attachment 164189

Creasing Fed IVs is not burdensome, afaic. In fact, it was quite easy. And quite easy to achieve symmetry. I just steam them, put them down on the (clean) counter top with the back of the hat facing me, push the center dent, and then the diamond points into the sides. This basically works for any fedora.

You can put the front pinches in either before or after the diamond points, whatever you're more comfortable with.
 
Last edited:

andrew_AU

A-List Customer
Messages
330
Location
Australia
Creasing Fed IVs is not burdensome, afaic. In fact, it was quite easy. And quite easy to achieve symmetry. I just steam them, put them down on the (clean) counter top with the back of the hat facing me, push the center dent, and then the diamond points into the sides. This basically works for any any fedora.

You can put the front pinches in either before or after the diamond points, whatever you're more comfortable with.
This is true. But my point is that symmetry isn’t the only option. Some people seem obsessed to achieve symmetry or what they perceive to be perfection when creasing a hat.

To my eyes there is no character in a neat, symmetrical, factory type crease. In my opinion if you want a factory fresh crease buy a factory creased hat. Open crown hats give you the freedom to create your own style.

But then, whenever I buy a pre creased hat I obsessively bring it back to an open crown and re-crease it to
my preferred shape.

We all have our obsessions I guess. We wouldn’t be here otherwise!!
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,160
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
This is true. But my point is that symmetry isn’t the only option. Some people seem obsessed to achieve symmetry or what they perceive to be perfection when creasing a hat.

To my eyes there is no character in a neat, symmetrical, factory type crease. In my opinion if you want a factory fresh crease buy a factory creased hat. Open crown hats give you the freedom to create your own style.

But then, whenever I buy a pre creased hat I obsessively bring it back to an open crown and re-crease it to my preferred shape.

We all have our obsessions I guess. We wouldn’t be here otherwise!!

I was not advocating symmetry, per se. Some of my hats are very symmetrical, and some are obviously not. I was simply stating: a) how I crease a diamond into a hat, and b) that it is not difficult (or burdensome) to do.
 

andrew_AU

A-List Customer
Messages
330
Location
Australia
I was not advocating symmetry, per se. Some of my hats are very symmetrical, and some are obviously not. I was simply stating: a) how I crease a diamond into a hat, and b) that it is not difficult (or burdensome) to do.
No not difficult or burdensome to do once you know how. There are some great resources here to help those attempting to crease their first hat too.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,737
Location
London, UK
In my time, I've owned two Fed IIIs and two Fed IVs. For me, they're as close as present day production come to a perfect fedora, and I will eventually on one in every colour. If the Hattery were in a position to provide a semi-customisation service - i.e. change ribbon, add brim binding and a wind trolley, I'd probably bankrupt myself. Colour alone is the only real reason I'd buy a different fedora.
FWIW, my oldest Fed, my brown deluxe III model, is now eleven and a half years old, and aside from a couple of vey minor moth nibbles and a yellowed liner (I wish they would use a darker colour), is holding up very well indeed. It sure hasn't been babied; it's my most-worn hat, and I tend to grab it by the crown for off/on.
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,160
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
In my time, I've owned two Fed IIIs and two Fed IVs. For me, they're as close as present day production come to a perfect fedora, and I will eventually on one in every colour. If the Hattery were in a position to provide a semi-customisation service - i.e. change ribbon, add brim binding and a wind trolley, I'd probably bankrupt myself. Colour alone is the only real reason I'd buy a different fedora.
FWIW, my oldest Fed, my brown deluxe III model, is now eleven and a half years old, and aside from a couple of vey minor moth nibbles and a yellowed liner (I wish they would use a darker colour), is holding up very well indeed. It sure hasn't been babied; it's my most-worn hat, and I tend to grab it by the crown for off/on.

I wish I could say the same for my III - it has just about had it.

It was well-worn in when I got it, and then I wore it almost every day for years. I even took it apart and reversed it because it was getting so tired.

It is still an amazingly comfortable hat. It just looks remarkably like a Streets of Cairo hat minus the dirt. :)
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,737
Location
London, UK
I wish I could say the same for my III - it has just about had it.

It was well-worn in when I got it, and then I wore it almost every day for years. I even took it apart and reversed it because it was getting so tired.

It is still an amazingly comfortable hat. It just looks remarkably like a Streets of Cairo hat minus the dirt. :)

Ha, yes.... I plan eventually to 'retire' mine to beater-Indy status and buy a replacement.
 
Messages
11,894
Location
Southern California
...FWIW, my oldest Fed, my brown deluxe III model, is now eleven and a half years old, and aside from a couple of vey minor moth nibbles and a yellowed liner (I wish they would use a darker colour), is holding up very well indeed. It sure hasn't been babied; it's my most-worn hat, and I tend to grab it by the crown for off/on.
Sounds like my dark brown Fed IV, which is a little over 10-1/2 years old now. Like your Fed III the liner has yellowed, but otherwise it's in very good condition and the felt has begun to soften...a little. :D
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,737
Location
London, UK
I wish I could get another III, but they seem to be as rare as hens' teeth. And then in my size? Even less likely.

TBH, I as concerned when I first heard they were doing a new version and messing with the magic formula, but tbh if my IVs are anything to go by, outside of really studying (and actually measuring) them, the difference is practically imperceptible.
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,160
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
TBH, I as concerned when I first heard they were doing a new version and messing with the magic formula, but tbh if my IVs are anything to go by, outside of really studying (and actually measuring) them, the difference is practically imperceptible.

Maybe so, and perception is in the eye of the beholder (to mangle a phrase), but to me the differences between the III and IV are very noticeable, even when they are creased similarly.
 
Messages
11,894
Location
Southern California
The measurements I've seen online state the Fed III has a slightly wider brim (2-3/4" on the sides, 3" front and back) and a slightly taller crown (approximately 6") than the Fed IV, but unless you placed them side-by-side open crown for a direct comparison I'm pretty sure only we hat enthusiasts would notice. :D
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,160
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
The measurements I've seen online state the Fed III has a slightly wider brim (2-3/4" on the sides, 3" front and back) and a slightly taller crown (approximately 6") than the Fed IV, but unless you placed them side-by-side open crown for a direct comparison I'm pretty sure only we hat enthusiasts would notice. :D

As far as subtle differences go, that's all that really matters, right? haha
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,160
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
I was not advocating symmetry, per se. Some of my hats are very symmetrical, and some are obviously not. I was simply stating: a) how I crease a diamond into a hat, and b) that it is not difficult (or burdensome) to do.

One of my favorite non-symmetrical hats. A 1930s Lamson & Hubbard (yes, it's not a Fed IV, but it shows lack of symmetry very well):

lamson hubbard_20190412_070335_400x514.jpg
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,160
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
I made a discovery a while back.

I have (what I thought were) three Fed IVs - a brown, a carbon gray, and a tawny fawn.

I love the brown and gray, and have had great success getting the crowns on them perfectly to my liking. The brims just do what they do and I couldn't be happier.

But I could never get the Tawny Fawn quite right. No matter what I do, or did, to it, it never looks as robust as the other two.

So what did I discover? I was looking at the sweat and right there at the front of it says 'FEDERATION.' Yes, Federation, not Federation IV.

So it seems I have a first gen Federation, which would explain the difference in the dimensions of the crown, as compared to my other two Fed IVs.

So now I need to figure out what to do with it. Is it rare? Rare enough to keep? I don't keep hats I don't wear (well, that's not really true), but I know I won't wear it very often.

I was considering modifying it, as in, cutting the brim down, maybe an eighth all around, to more match the slightly slighter dimensions of the crown. Should I cut down a 1st gen Fed? Should I leave it alone? Should I sell it?

Even if I just left it be, I like (I think) to ponder the questions, and others like them. Anyone wanna ad anything, serious or ridiculous, or both, or neither?
 
Last edited:
Messages
18,915
Location
Central California
I made a discovery a while back.

I have (what I thought were) three Fed IVs - a brown, a carbon gray, and a tawny fawn.

I love the brown and gray, and have had great success getting the crowns on them perfectly to my liking. The brims just do what they do and I couldn't be happier.

But I could never get the Tawny Fawn quite right. No matter what I do, or did, to it, it never looks as robust as the other two.

So what did I discover? I was looking at the sweat and right there at the front of it says 'FEDERATION.' Yes, Federation, not Federation IV.

So it seems I have a first gen Federation, which would explain the difference in the dimensions of the crown, as compared to the Fed IVs.

So now I need to figure out what to do with it. Is it rare? Rare enough to keep? I don't keep hats I don't wear (well, that's not really true), but I know I won't wear it very often.

I was considering modifying it, as in, cutting the brim down, maybe an eighth all around, to more match the slightly slighter dimensions of the crown. Should I cut down a 1st gen Fed? Should I leave it alone? Should I sell it?

Even if I just left it be, I like (I think) to ponder the questions, and others like them. Anyone wanna ad anything, serious or ridiculous, or both, or neither?

I had a Federation (no Roman numerals) in black and size 61. I sold it on eBay and it went for $100. They are rare, but not necessarily valuable. If you don’t like it I’d suggest selling it un-modified and using the proceeds to get another Fed IV.


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