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skybert

One of the Regulars
Messages
112
I think 4-4.5oz you’re ok. 5.5oz. World of hurt.

Okay nice!
@Torstein I have jackets that has noticeably thicker sleeves on one arm and not the other. This happens a lot with horsehide, except Shinki, they are very uniform thickness compared to Horween and others tanneries.

LW horsehide is heavyweight stuff. At least in my experience. So advertised 3.5 oz isn't gonna be different than advertised 4.5 oz. On the same jacket, you will get spots that are closer to 3 oz and other spots that are closer to 4.5 oz. But overall it's still heavyweight leather.

If you like the Suburban design, go for it! It will be a good jacket no matter what the advertisement says (3.5 or 4.5 oz). It's still gonna be a heavyweight jacket.

View attachment 356837
There's two layers on the lapel, so about 1.9mm, this is probably why it was advertised as a 4.5 oz horsehide. I am sure if I measure other parts I can get a reading closer to 3 oz thickness. But it won't make this jacket not a heavyweight.

That's clarifying! I see your point. While there's some difference, it's all heavyweight in feel.
All of mine are claimed to be 4oz or more. The ones I have bought new lost their “stiffness”pretty fast. Be active in them. Get them wet. The CHP is very soft. I can fold it into a backpack. His d pockets/cross zips have stiff front panels but those break in too, over time. I think you will be stoked with the suburban. The newer hide isn’t as stiff or hard to break in either.

Yup, whatever I get I want to wear it a lot. Might adopt Carlos' spray-before-wear too.
From pics and Terry's videos it seems like the newer LW HH is 1) still heavy and tough as nails, but 2) does break in faster than say 10 years ago. Which sounds like a good balance.

Thanks for your replies. They helped :)
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,464
Location
Illinois
From pics and Terry's videos it seems like the newer LW HH is 1) still heavy and tough as nails, but 2) does break in faster than say 10 years ago.

Well said. My Older Heavy Test is 4+. Has all the qualities of Toughness, but not so much Beauty. I've seen a definite change in his Heavy HH the last few years.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,130
Isn't this due to the maker? It's the maker that selects the hides for each panel. Not the Tannery. Right?

Yes, ultimately it's up to the maker on which part of the leather to use. But with Shinki and Badalassi, the maker will end up with less waste vs Horween. It comes from the factory trimmed and thus smaller pieces and cost more per square feet. But if Horween was trimmed down it would cost the same.

compare.jpg
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,464
Location
Illinois
Was wondering if any of you can tell me who made this cross zip. Pretty hefty leather, well worn needing some repair and new lining. Main zip is serval, sleeves are NYNCO.
27367baa-30f4-4e8f-b1da-d2032a87f287-jpeg.353097
7861b7df-a676-4331-8593-bc663e0eddab-jpeg.353098
0fc4a871-0428-42d1-bf6f-19c37181a75b-jpeg.353099
20a34edb-4b8a-4321-ac06-b7865faf104d-jpeg.353100
df1e6794-4cb5-4442-baeb-d8cb3e288f89-jpeg.353101

This jacket on eBay right now is exact same build.
View attachment 357378

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-1950s-...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

any thoughts on this one @tmitchell59?

I really don't have any idea on the genuine leather jacket. It's a very generic label. The eBay jacket it's much more interesting to me with the spots on it. Evidently this is labeled Windward. I'm thinking California sportswear company as a suspect but not committing to them as the maker. Kidney panel and lower back just don't look like California sportswear details
 

kellohenkka

New in Town
Messages
2
Hey all! Long time lurker here looking to buy a first japanese leather jacket. I own a Vanson AR3 for riding which is the perfect size in 42, but not fit. Chest and shoulders fit great, but sleeves are a little too short and the waist a little too large. I am pretty much a V-shape with an athletic build.

Now I've been looking at Freewheelers Mulholland, unfortunately not available at the time. I have also been looking at Rainbow Country single rider's. At first I didn't like the collar tab, but have actually learned to like it the more I see it. Also at the moment I prefer the simpler back design. Another choice wuold be Joe McCoy's Nelson, but at the moment I prefer the design and build of RC. Can anyone shed some light as to differences in the fits between these jackets? I think I'm looking for a one with preferably longer length sleeves and narrower waist for a trim fit. I don't much care for the extra details in FW vs. RC, especially when considering the Mulholland isn't available at the moment and wuold cost almost 1000 euro extra. Thanks in advance!
 

Yamahana

Practically Family
Messages
992
Location
Buckeye, Arizona
I really don't have any idea on the genuine leather jacket. It's a very generic label. The eBay jacket it's much more interesting to me with the spots on it. Evidently this is labeled Windward. I'm thinking California sportswear company as a suspect but not committing to them as the maker. Kidney panel and lower back just don't look like California sportswear details
It had me curious because of some similarities.
Seems it was primarily Sears and Wards jackets that had peaked lower back panels. They also share the same pocket zipper design, same 1 star epaulets and they both have sleeve zippers on the top/front of the sleeves.
D3962E1B-64B1-4140-A44A-98989440B142.png C964DC84-31E4-42C3-B11E-C5D068110D58.png 5EA6BD09-508C-488D-8BC0-9763A37D9BC7.jpeg
434C96C3-5C58-4554-931C-D539AD4321A0.jpeg

The generic one has no other labeling but the Genuine Leather, just had me wondering if there was some connection to the Windward with those similarities.
 

jeo

One Too Many
Messages
1,798
Location
Philadelphia
Hey all! Long time lurker here looking to buy a first japanese leather jacket. I own a Vanson AR3 for riding which is the perfect size in 42, but not fit. Chest and shoulders fit great, but sleeves are a little too short and the waist a little too large. I am pretty much a V-shape with an athletic build.

Now I've been looking at Freewheelers Mulholland, unfortunately not available at the time. I have also been looking at Rainbow Country single rider's. At first I didn't like the collar tab, but have actually learned to like it the more I see it. Also at the moment I prefer the simpler back design. Another choice wuold be Joe McCoy's Nelson, but at the moment I prefer the design and build of RC. Can anyone shed some light as to differences in the fits between these jackets? I think I'm looking for a one with preferably longer length sleeves and narrower waist for a trim fit. I don't much care for the extra details in FW vs. RC, especially when considering the Mulholland isn't available at the moment and wuold cost almost 1000 euro extra. Thanks in advance!

I don’t have the RMC Nelson, but I do have it’s predecessor the Wayward. I also have the RC single riders.

The RC is a 34. My RMC is a 36. They both fit similar and have similar measurements. So definitely take that into consideration.

When both fit properly, the RC is a little harder to move in. Sleeves are practically the same length.

Can’t go wrong with either. I feel the RMC Nelson is a bit more ubiquitous in it’s design and therefore maybe a little easier to wear.

Good luck and please be sure to post whatever you end up going with!
 

Kubatu

A-List Customer
Messages
441
Got a sheepskin vest in the other day that has a slight odor. Nothing too bad, but I would like to reduce it anyway. Any issues with using vinegar? I assume the leather would be fine, just not sure about the shearling interior.
 

kellohenkka

New in Town
Messages
2
I don’t have the RMC Nelson, but I do have it’s predecessor the Wayward. I also have the RC single riders.

The RC is a 34. My RMC is a 36. They both fit similar and have similar measurements. So definitely take that into consideration.

When both fit properly, the RC is a little harder to move in. Sleeves are practically the same length.

Can’t go wrong with either. I feel the RMC Nelson is a bit more ubiquitous in it’s design and therefore maybe a little easier to wear.

Good luck and please be sure to post whatever you end up going with!
Thanks Jeo! Obviously these things might change with sizing, but how wuold you describe the RC single rider's? For example longer sleeves, slim body, narrow hem etc.?
 
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jeo

One Too Many
Messages
1,798
Location
Philadelphia
Thanks Jeo! Obviously these things might change with sizing, but how wuold you describe the RC single rider's? For example longer sleeves, slim body, narrow hem etc.?

Definitely a tight fit. It's slim in the body. Surprisingly plenty of room at the waist. Not a great pattern for mobility. Standard length sleeves.
 

dwilson

A-List Customer
Messages
320
Location
LA
Hey all! Long time lurker here looking to buy a first japanese leather jacket. I own a Vanson AR3 for riding which is the perfect size in 42, but not fit. Chest and shoulders fit great, but sleeves are a little too short and the waist a little too large. I am pretty much a V-shape with an athletic build.

Now I've been looking at Freewheelers Mulholland, unfortunately not available at the time. I have also been looking at Rainbow Country single rider's. At first I didn't like the collar tab, but have actually learned to like it the more I see it. Also at the moment I prefer the simpler back design. Another choice wuold be Joe McCoy's Nelson, but at the moment I prefer the design and build of RC. Can anyone shed some light as to differences in the fits between these jackets? I think I'm looking for a one with preferably longer length sleeves and narrower waist for a trim fit. I don't much care for the extra details in FW vs. RC, especially when considering the Mulholland isn't available at the moment and wuold cost almost 1000 euro extra. Thanks in advance!

I actually went through this exact process (even exact jackets) recently.

So the Mulholland I rejected out of my list because I do not feel like I have a great frame for it. In general it seems to fit people who have a stockier build and I'm more lanky. So the measurements just did not look correct for me. I also wanted something without zip slash pockets for my hands.

For the RC it felt like I could be either a 38 or 40. I was kind of in the middle. The RC has a longer body which is nice and narrower arms. Overall its a really beautiful jacket. I'm not a huge fan of the hercules back but I could probably learn to love it. What kicked this one out for me is the wool lining and cotton-flannel sleeves. Likely it would often be too warm for me in Southern California. I did find an older collab with RC which had a thin cotton body liner which if it was available in my size I'd likely own the jacket. And also like you I waffled back and forth on the neck tab. I think if I had my way I'd get rid of it.

Then comes to my ultimate jacket I purchased which was the RMC Nelson. The Nelson is still likelier a better fit for a stockier person compared to the RC. It has a fairly short body and a comparatively wider chest and waist. However the size 38 was dead on my dimensions outside of those two factors and I overall liked the design more than the Mulholland or RC Herc. The cotton drill lining throughout means its a fairly lightweight all season jacket so it worked out well for me.

TLDR; They're all great jackets and it will come down to your dimensions and some of the small differing factors
 
Messages
10,977
Location
SoCal
How do you safely remove all the gunk leftover from previous conditioners from a jacket’s topcoat?

After experimenting with a few conditioners on an old deerskin jacket, I’ve found a favorite. Problem is that previous conditionings have left various results/ finishes. The collar has hardened a bit too. How can I safely remove a waxy finish (Tenderly) or a Pecard’s finish, or both from the deerskin?
 
Last edited:

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,798
How do you safely remove all the gunk leftover from previous conditioners from a jacket’s topcoat?

After experimenting with a few conditioners on an old deerskin jacket, I’ve found a favorite. Problem is that previous conditionings have left various results/ finishes. The collar has hardened a bit too. How can I safely remove a waxy finish (Tenderly) or a Pecard’s finish, or both from the deerskin?
You could try Saphir Reno mat

 

FL2021

Familiar Face
Messages
92
Question:
Most Outerwear Jackets (Non Leather) with Pocket Zips close Downwards. Aero's and Field Leathers zip upwards..
Any advantage/disadvantages of either/or and which ones would you choose for your Leathers?
 

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