How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

[TartuWolf]

For better or for worse. Vanson B in Octagon from JP.
If everything else works out I might send it to PL to chop off the windflap, shorten the body, add taper in the waist and replace the main zipper.

Came in just now.
A bit longer than I would like, just as expected. A bit tighter at the hem than I expected, but tolerable. Nice slim waist. Sleeves on the tighter side, same with armholes. Thank god the chest is wide enough to be comfortable. So yeah, pretty trim jacket, t-shirt fit.
Beautiful leather, thick and stiff as well, has absolutely no problem standing on it's own. A brown that really wants to be orange hehe.

 

[Bfd70]

Just received a used 2022-production Rainbow Country G-1 in size 38 from Mercari. The goatskin's got a nice almost-black dark seal brown color and it doesn't have excessive squeak like my Buzz Rickson's M422 Monarch repro. Fit's nice n' snug for slender frame with a trim waist; while this ain't a sweater-ready jacket, the sleeve and body length is great for my 170 cm body (would not size up). The sleeves don't tunnel much and I'm not getting that issue where the front drop sticks out prominently while the waistband knit rides up your seat. I'd daresay this is my favorite trim G-1 style after experiencing Aeros, Buzzes, and a Johnson over the past few years. (By comparison, the Buzz M422 Monarch of the same size I have has a looser midsection fit plus fairly long sleeves and length)

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Looks awesome. Love a G1. Lets see a fit pic

 

[AeroFan_07]

Thanks, the closest looking match i could find was a Cal LAPD so good to know i was on the right track.

It's just the right amount of patina for me but I've been informed i'm not even close to pulling off the look.

but I've been informed i'm not even close to pulling off the look.

Discontinue listening to folks who say this to you.

Unless you want to sell this jacket along to me, what size is it?

 

[tmitchell59]

I saw this on ebay for practically free thinking it was a possible Cal/Al's Leather/Lang Litz. Never heard of Fashion Clothing Co Of San Francisco and couldn't find anything on the internet about it. Any ideas?

Fashion Clothes goes back to the late 30s in San Francisco Mission Street leather making district. I have Ralphs-Pugh police jacket from 1938 with a Fashion Clothes label. So, they did not make jackets, but was a retailer for different makers.

They were in business into the 50s with a different label. This jacket does not appear to be a Ralphs-Pugh. I do not know the maker. The main zipper looks to be a replacement YKK?

It is likely from the early 40s and appears to be high quality garment.

 

[Tark]

Looks awesome. Love a G1. Lets see a fit pic

Can't take any decent body shots now but these images from Mushmans' blog are an accurate indicator of the fit. Trim midsection, slim sleeves, and a short body length that works for my height (I've got a similar build to the model depicted).

Rainbow Countryより"55J14 G-1"の入荷が始まっております！ | MUSHMANS BLOG | マッシュマンズ ブログ

　皆様こんにちは！！MUSHMANS代表の藤田です！！ ようやく始まりましたRainbow Country"55J14 G-1"の入荷！只今、レギュラーサイズよりサイズ毎に入荷が始まり、この後カスタムサイズの入荷となるかと思います。本年は特に納期が読めないという状況で受注会がスタートし、予想通り年を超えての入荷でございました。 多くの皆様からオーダーをいただいておりまして、御納品に時間を要しました事、心よりお詫び申し上げます

blog.mushmans.com

 

[chillinginthenameof]

Fashion Clothes goes back to the late 30s in San Francisco Mission Street leather making district. I have Ralphs-Pugh police jacket from 1938 with a Fashion Clothes label. So, they did not make jackets, but was a retailer for different makers.

They were in business into the 50s with a different label. This jacket does not appear to be a Ralphs-Pugh. I do not know the maker. The main zipper looks to be a replacement YKK?

It is likely from the early 40s and appears to be high quality garment.

Thanks for the info. You must be right about the main zip, much newer than the talon sleeve zips.

 

[tmitchell59]

This jacket has a later label, Probably 1950s. Don't know the maker.

 

[Leather Walker]

This jacket has a later label, Probably 1950s. Don't know the maker.

View attachment 727856 View attachment 727858 View attachment 727857

Cal, but judging by these Talon teardrops, I'd say 70s.

 

[LeatherHunter]

Picked up another US Wings Indy jacket. This one appears to be a chocolate brown which is much darker than my distressed cowhide, These Signature Series jackets are made by Schott NYC in the United States for USW.

 

[TartuWolf]

I'm such a Vanson fanboy and a sucker for a good deal, couldn't pass this one up..

 

[unhatted]

I'm such a Vanson fanboy and a sucker for a good deal, couldn't pass this one up..
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Nice! Looking forward to fit pics!

 

[tuanhng614]

I'm such a Vanson fanboy and a sucker for a good deal, couldn't pass this one up..
View attachment 729442
View attachment 729443

Very nice jacket. Love that pocket design and a clean back!

 

[TartuWolf]

Very nice jacket. Love that pocket design and a clean back!

Same! clean/minimalist cross zip with a slightly d-pocket reminiscent front. I hope the measurements listed are wrong otherwise there's a serious chance of this being too small, but we shall see. I suspect the bottom hem is gonna be the deal breaker, similar to the recent Octagon B that I got. And shortening this Raid would be much more complicated that shortening the model B due to the D pocket outline already being so close to the hem.

 

[tuanhng614]

Same! clean/minimalist cross zip with a slightly d-pocket reminiscent front. I hope the measurements listed are wrong otherwise there's a serious chance of this being too small, but we shall see. I suspect the bottom hem is gonna be the deal breaker, similar to the recent Octagon B that I got. And shortening this Raid would be much more complicated that shortening the model B due to the D pocket outline already being so close to the hem.

It seems that you have minor issue with the length of Vanson jackets.

Is it the front or the back length that causing issue? You can consider just modifying the back and the front alone, making the jacket having a sort of front drop. It would preserve the D-pocket design.

 

[TartuWolf]

It seems that you have minor issue with the length of Vanson jackets.

Is it the front or the back length that causing issue? You can consider just modifying the back and the front alone, making the jacket having a sort of front drop. It would preserve the D-pocket design.

Well there can be many different issues with jacket length.
1. Visual - just looks off in terms of proportions. Haven't had many issues in this regard as my eye is not as keen for proportions. Although the "just covers the belt, but does not cover the jean back pocket openings or fully cover the front pocket openings" ideal is still VERY valid in terms of what to strive for.
2 . The hem being tight and getting stuck on the hips in case of a longer jacket. This is the case with my Octagon model B - the whole jacket gets pushed up due to the hem not clearing the hips. Shortening the jacket (both front and back) and moving the zipper a bit up not only slightly widens the hips (zipper starts later) but also let's the hem sit higher up where it's narrower and therefore stops the jacket from being pushed up. This might also be an issue with the Raid.
3 . Front pushing the jacket up when sitting - similar issue as previous one, but only occurs when sitting down, might be fine when standing. In this case shortening the jacket in front is more important.

Issues 2 and 3 occur mainly with thick and stiff jackets. Wind flaps and chunky zippers make it worse. Both can also be alleviated by a two-way zipper. I'd prefer a shorter jacket to a two-way zipper longer one.

I can't think of any cases where a back that is too long would be an actual issue apart from aesthetics. For example my model E is a bit too long in the back for my taste, but it has no practical implications.

 

[ton312]

Been on a denim bender. 2 IH jackets
18oz vintage CPO

The 526j (no hand warmers)

A vintage “Do Nothing”:

And a Mister Freedom continental blazer:

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

Been on a denim bender. 2 IH jackets
18oz vintage CPO
View attachment 729889 The 526j (no hand warmers)
View attachment 729888 A vintage “Do Nothing”:
View attachment 729886
And a Mister Freedom continental blazer:
View attachment 729887

Not what you meant to highlight but those olive pants are sick. Where are those from?

 

[technicolor yawn]

Does anyone have any knowledge of this jacket? It appears to be a Vanson Arrow, Raid, or Gambler but I haven't seen one before in this brown leather. Just bought off ebay, the seller was very nice and dealt with my ham-fisted haggling quite professionally. Just looking for any resources or specific model that this might be.

 

[torfjord]

Been on a denim bender. 2 IH jackets
18oz vintage CPO
View attachment 729889 The 526j (no hand warmers)
View attachment 729888 A vintage “Do Nothing”:
View attachment 729886
And a Mister Freedom continental blazer:
View attachment 729887

That’s what I call a bender! I especially like that IH trucker. I didn’t know they made them without the abominable hand warmer pockets.

 

[TartuWolf]

Does anyone have any knowledge of this jacket? It appears to be a Vanson Arrow, Raid, or Gambler but I haven't seen one before in this brown leather. Just bought off ebay, the seller was very nice and dealt with my ham-fisted haggling quite professionally. Just looking for any resources or specific model that this might be.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/need-help-info-regarding-vanson-raid-raider-arrow.76923/
It's not a Raid, that one has a kidney panel and shoulder gussets, no half belt.
Looks similar to a Gambler, Tony had one, but I don't see if it has waist straps from his pictures:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vanson-raid-fit.110202/post-2984833
He had more than one it seems (slightly different flap pocket):
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/new-jacket-vanson-x-thurston-bros-gambler.89802/
Arrow also seems to fit the bill:
https://www.vansonleathers.com/trad...YBSp-8iOBTpZYmOt5-7yj9mXbVAy875SUSuVR7z5uN2pi
I think Gambler is just a Thurston name for the Vanson Arrow, at least they are extremely similar.
I've also heard "Raider" thrown in there when talking about these models, but I think that's just a JP way of calling the Raid.

Randomly found the Vanson JP leather jacket database, very cool!
https://www.vanson.jp/db/admin/?mcz=sr&pset=list1

Here you can compare them very nicely side by side:
Raid : https://www.vanson.jp/db/admin/index.html?mcz=detail&ad=70
Arrow : https://www.vanson.jp/db/admin/index.html?mcz=detail&ad=378

Conclusion : Arrow / Gambler