Insights on Freewheelers. Is Mulholland overpriced/overrated at the moment?

[Zoro]

I am sorry - I indeed used chatgpt to fix errors im my English post (English is not my native language). I replaced it now with my original post with mistakes ;-)

Very likely you can achieve a middle ground asking ChatGPT to not reword, rephrase or reformat and simply fix grammar and punctuation mistakes.

 

[sirkris]

Also, smooth leather is not necessarily 'top quality' or qualitatively different than grainy leather.

I am sorry for off topic - this is sleeve in eastman - two different leather quality pieces.
But as I said - for me it is not a disadvantage- I like such rough leather look.
In Mullholland the whole jacket is made with the same quality leather

 

[cbez]

I am sorry for off topic - this is sleeve in eastman - two different leather quality pieces.
But as I said - for me it is not a disadvantage- I like such rough leather look.
In Mullholland the whole jacket is made with the same quality leather
View attachment 745223

Maybe it is a language thing. The grainy side is not lower quality. It is not like wagyu vs USDA select.

Many top manufacturers will deliberately choose a grainy section for certain panels, or have an entire hide tanned grainy for aesthetic reasons.

Sometimes but not always there are grainy sections that are slightly thinner, but even these are often used deliberately in areas like armpits where a lot flexibility is needed.

 

[cbez]

Example: This colimbo i am selling has one sleeve that was cut grainier. Not my favorite choice for the panel (in a boots we'd call it clicking) but the leather is just as thick and robust as the other panels.

 

[cbez]

In my high large they varied the panels a lot creating an organic aesthetic. But the contrasting horizontal grain on the pockets also shows thoughtful choices by the maker.

In my high notch a grainy panel highlighted in the most prominent center panel. Plus grainier sections selected for armpits.

 

[sirkris]

Thank you cbez- This illustrates what I meant- In my Mullholland the whole jacket has the same quality leather. Exception are parts around wrists and the collar where leather is little bit more creased.

 

[El Marro]

The Mulholland was the jacket everyone wanted for a good long while around here and then it was the jacket that almost everyone who got one was selling in the classifieds, that should tell you something.
I myself was very taken with it, and if I had found one in my size, you better believe I would’ve bought it, they are just a little too small for me and that has kept me from buying one.

 

[Biff42]

Example: This colimbo i am selling has one sleeve that was cut grainier. Not my favorite choice for the panel (in a boots we'd call it clicking) but the leather is just as thick and robust as the other panels.

I like the mismatched panels personally.

 

[ABCD]

Also, smooth leather is not necessarily 'top quality' or qualitatively different than grainy leather.

Back in the days smooth leather was perceived to be more desirable. This is from a 1949 Wards catalog. Best (smooth) leather was more expensive.

 

[cbez]

Sure but that imo was more an aesthetic thing than grainy leather being functionally inferior. Imo the pendulum swung back around because grain is considered more 'artisanal' and a super smooth finish is associated with an overprocessed mall jacket.

 

[BloodEagle]

My experience with a Mulholland was not optimal - I had one for a while before moving it on, and it was undeniably a well put together and very robust feeling jacket. For me, at least, it was too heavyweight and I found it extremely uncomfortable - it pushed down of my shoulders somehow and felt almost as if I was wearing a heavy leaher saddle and I never really got past that - fit and comfort is subjective of course, so results will vary on that score.
What is hard to deny though is, as others have already mentioned, the substandard zippers and hardware on them - the main zipper pull on mine disintegrated with no real reason or fanfare, I just used it one day and it fell apart. Not ideal, and certainly not what I'd expect on a jacket sold for a premium near the top end of the market. My advice would be to somehow see if you can try one on before shelling out the fair whack of dough one costs these days.

 

[Tom71]

Thank you all for the helpful information!

To answer @ABCD and @Tom71, it doesn’t have to be Mulholland, it’s just that a lot of people talk about it as a grail piece. To be honest, I just received a good amount of bonuses thanks to my hard work, so I want to spurge 3-4k on a jacket as a present for myself. Something that I don’t consider wearing everyday, but it should be eye-catching and well-respected not only for the general public but also for folks who are deep into this niche. Can be anything from Freewheelers such as the Brakeman, the Switchyard Coat, the La Brea,… or from any other makers, as long as it fits into the criteria I mentioned above. I already own several pieces from Real Mccoy, Fine Creeks, Y2, Rainbow Country, Aero,… so looking for something more unique and above the pieces I already have. I am totally open to suggestions.

As for Freewheelers, I am just genuinely curious about what sets them apart, why people talk about them as the legendary maker or the best of all. If the reasons are solid, I am not shy away from spending money on them. Just so you know, I would never spend that amount on a YSL jacket even if I am able to.. From all the discussions above, constructions and hardwares are not what make them stand out. I am curious about their leather, what is so special about their proprietary Shinki and their in-house finish process. Does it require much more labor than leather used by Himel or Field leather? So if we don’t talk about money here, what makes you guys decide to put on a Freewheelers in a meeting of all leather nerds, or is it just a nice piece in your collection and you would rather go with another piece for showing off your unique taste?

Actually, I follow you idea to "treat yourself to something special".

A Mulholland is certainly less spendy than a Submariner or a 911, so it´s even a "budget deal". On the other hand, who really notices what kind of leather you are wearing??

I repeat my thoughts from earlier:

If a Mulholland is a grail for you, you will not be disappointed. If however, you are after something "truly unique", I´d follow @ABCD ´s suggestion and go for a vintage original.

Needless to say: I always appreciate the idea of gifting yourself a nice leather jacket to celebrate a milestone (if only a finacial one).

 

[PeterHuang]

Thank you all for the informative responses! Haven't checked this thread for a few days and just found so many insightful information!

I followed what @Tom71 and @ABCD said regarding what makes a jacket unique, I want to treat myself something special and unique at the same time. It seems like a Freewheelers is not that unique for people in this niche so I kinda moved on from Freewheelers and are considering a made to order jacket. During my days lurking in the Fedora Lounge without an account, it seems like the top 5 makers people kept mentioning are Himel, Thedi, Field Leather, Lost World, Goodwear. I am not planning to wait more than one year for a new jacket, so Goodwear is crossed out. Lost World's design is amazing and very faithful to the original, but I have handled several ones in real life, and I am not particularly fond of their chrome tanned leather. Himel jackets look absolutely stunning on the website, but I have read so many threads about his inconsistency and shoddy construction, so I am unsure about it. That leaves Thedi and Field Leather. I am more impressed by Theodoros's design which feels more unique to me. Also, their leather is different from what I have (I already have 6 Shinki jackets at the moment). So maybe I will get something from Thedi. Would love to hear expert's opinions on this and learn more about Thedi's leather finish techniques as well as where they sourced the leather.

Also, for @ABCD, where did you find all the old catalogs lol? Those look like treasures for people who are in a thirst for knowledge of leather jacket like me haha.

 

[cbez]

Thank you all for the informative responses! Haven't checked this thread for a few days and just found so many insightful information!

I followed what @Tom71 and @ABCD said regarding what makes a jacket unique, I want to treat myself something special and unique at the same time. It seems like a Freewheelers is not that unique for people in this niche so I kinda moved on from Freewheelers and are considering a made to order jacket. During my days lurking in the Fedora Lounge without an account, it seems like the top 5 makers people kept mentioning are Himel, Thedi, Field Leather, Lost World, Goodwear. I am not planning to wait more than one year for a new jacket, so Goodwear is crossed out. Lost World's design is amazing and very faithful to the original, but I have handled several ones in real life, and I am not particularly fond of their chrome tanned leather. Himel jackets look absolutely stunning on the website, but I have read so many threads about his inconsistency and shoddy construction, so I am unsure about it. That leaves Thedi and Field Leather. I am more impressed by Theodoros's design which feels more unique to me. Also, their leather is different from what I have (I already have 6 Shinki jackets at the moment). So maybe I will get something from Thedi. Would love to hear expert's opinions on this and learn more about Thedi's leather finish techniques as well as where they sourced the leather.

Also, for @ABCD, where did you find all the old catalogs lol? Those look like treasures for people who are in a thirst for knowledge of leather jacket like me haha.

That's a very western centric viewpoint. Fair play since the Japanese jackets are harder to get and the stock sizes rarely fit big American guys that well.

A lot of Thedi jackets have an almost costume aesthetic to me, and I don't think many of he original field leathers patterns look great when actually worn.

I don't think Thedi has fully embraced the 'tell you the name and diet of the Buffalo we skinned this leather off of and the family history of the tannery' thing. If you like his aesthetic just get a jacket that you like the look of.

 

[Brandrea33]

I tried one a few years back, the pattern didn’t work for me and the sleeves were at least an inch too short.

Nice jacket overall. Oh, I don’t think it had an interior pocket, which may sound insignificant, but to me that’s a must have on a piece of outerwear.

 

[tmitchell59]

This Seattle Woolen police jacket is a close to original Mulholland as I've gotten. This is from the late 1930s. I've owned 2 of these, both too small for me to say how they fit. Both are gone, probably someone here.

The Freewheelers had access to many jackets from the era in Japan, probably one like this. They created their own and gave it a name.

I've got a Freewheelers Brakeman which was the "hot" jacket when it came out. The prices were as high as demand. Took me till last year to find one at a reasonable price. It is a fine jacket and I have an original to compare.

Finding an original like this Settle Woolen will be tough, and you won't be alone in your interest.

Like said above, there several for sale here. I have not idea how they fit other than small old or new. Keep your eyes open and one may come along.

 

[tmitchell59]

Also, for @ABCD, where did you find all the old catalogs lol? Those look like treasures for people who are in a thirst for knowledge of leather jacket like me haha.

got to the Outerwear; thread of the past and you will enjoy yourself. This is an interesting clip.

 

[Carlos840]

Thank you all for the informative responses! Haven't checked this thread for a few days and just found so many insightful information!

I followed what @Tom71 and @ABCD said regarding what makes a jacket unique, I want to treat myself something special and unique at the same time. It seems like a Freewheelers is not that unique for people in this niche so I kinda moved on from Freewheelers and are considering a made to order jacket. During my days lurking in the Fedora Lounge without an account, it seems like the top 5 makers people kept mentioning are Himel, Thedi, Field Leather, Lost World, Goodwear. I am not planning to wait more than one year for a new jacket, so Goodwear is crossed out. Lost World's design is amazing and very faithful to the original, but I have handled several ones in real life, and I am not particularly fond of their chrome tanned leather. Himel jackets look absolutely stunning on the website, but I have read so many threads about his inconsistency and shoddy construction, so I am unsure about it. That leaves Thedi and Field Leather. I am more impressed by Theodoros's design which feels more unique to me. Also, their leather is different from what I have (I already have 6 Shinki jackets at the moment). So maybe I will get something from Thedi. Would love to hear expert's opinions on this and learn more about Thedi's leather finish techniques as well as where they sourced the leather.

Also, for @ABCD, where did you find all the old catalogs lol? Those look like treasures for people who are in a thirst for knowledge of leather jacket like me haha.

If you already have 6 shinki jackets i'm not sure why you expect a 7th one to be more special...
Freewheelers jackets aren't magical, they aren't made by elves, their main selling point is shinki, if you already have shinki they aren't more "special" than RMC or many other makers...

 

[Tom71]

If you already have 6 shinki jackets i'm not sure why you expect a 7th one to be more special...
Freewheelers jackets aren't magical, they aren't made by elves, their main selling point is shinki, if you already have shinki they aren't more "special" than RMC or many other makers...

Exactly. Only qualification would be the scarcety of the offerings.

(I sometimes find myself oddly longing for a Daytona, although I don´t really like the design that much...).

 

[Hoanglong]

Special and unique. I think having a crocodile leather jacket tailored is a good idea.