Tails, Cutaways, and Strollers - wedding

Gentlemen,

As stated in the hat section, I am getting married in just under one year, and am interested in the appropriate and correct attire. The wedding ceremony is on a Sunday early afternoon, with the reception going into the evening, and is a formal black-tie (or optional) event. I would like my groomsmen and me to wear strollers or cutaways with striped trousers, and then perhaps have a quick change to tuxedos (or at least dark trousers) for the reception. I would not fancy wearing a tuxedo before 5pm, but I may just be old fashioned. (I may also change to tails for the evening, as our band will likely be playing 1930s-40s music, but I don't want to make anyone feel uncomfortable either.)

As I am a compulsive collector, I will be purchasing my clothes if possible, because I know I'll find (or create) another occasion to wear them. Of the morning wear and tails I have seen online, Lord West is by far the most common make with a few options (grey or black, tropical weight 100% wool, etc.). The price seems a bit low for Lord West so I'm concerned about quality. Does anyone have any experience with their formal wear? If not Lord West, any recommendations?

Thank you for your much needed help.

-Max

Lord West is 'rental' grade formal wear. How much were you looking to spend?

Rental grade would be adequate for my groomsmen, for me I'd like something nicer if available within a reasonable cost ($700 maybe?). My striped trousers, waistcoat and cutaway I'd like to be nice quality, but not breaking the bank as I may wear it only 2-3 times per year after this. I already have the appropriate shirts and detachable collars for any dress level (turned down and notch collars, white and patterned shirts alike).

I saw that one of the overseas bespoke websites can make this formalwear. I believe it was mycustomtailor, which I have seen has a decent selection of fabrics. If their cut and fabrics are good I may go this route if they have some good recommendations.

-Max

You can find really good formal wear on the web. Try this company, 'Savvy Row' http://www.savvyrow.co.uk/

Even with postage from the UK, it will be less than $700. They quite often have some fantastic vintage morning wear, dating back to the twenties and thirties. The vintage morning suit trousers will be far better quality and look far better than modern ones. The weight means they had much better than modern ones. Even the good quality morning suit striped trousers are made from fabrics that are too lightweight to compare to the vintage ones (I think the heaviest fabric i could find was 13oz). They have 1930s morning coats for £65 and 1950s trousers at around the same price.
Good luck.

Go with TT's rec. You won't find anything decent for even treble your price here in the States.

Second that, I have a bought a couple of suits from Savvy, really good, both quality and value. Couple of things to remember, you need to keep a regular watch on their site, daily if you can, they do tend to have a quick turnover. And, in Brit speak, a tux is refered to as a dinner suit. Oh, nearly forgot, the price you pay is the lower one. Non Brits are exempt from our purchase tax, something you see marked as VAT, or value added tax.
You may, of course, have some sort of import duty, slapped on by Uncle Sam, I'm not up to speed on American taxes. I do know though that Florida has a classic tax on tax, whereby you pay your hotel bill, including tax, and then they charge a tourist tax of 12 and a half %. So that includes twelve and a half percent of the purchase tax.
Have a nice day!

Two Types said:

You can find really good formal wear on the web. Try this company, 'Savvy Row' http://www.savvyrow.co.uk/

Even with postage from the UK, it will be less than $700. They quite often have some fantastic vintage morning wear, dating back to the twenties and thirties. The vintage morning suit trousers will be far better quality and look far better than modern ones. The weight means they had much better than modern ones. Even the good quality morning suit striped trousers are made from fabrics that are too lightweight to compare to the vintage ones (I think the heaviest fabric i could find was 13oz). They have 1930s morning coats for £65 and 1950s trousers at around the same price.
Good luck.

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Excellent recommendation. I have a question in with them on one of their morning coats which I like very much, and will probably purchase.

Always trust the Lounge for the best answers!

Thanks gents, I'll let you know how it goes.

-Max

Good luck and we expect to see photos.

Two Types said:

Good luck and we expect to see photos.

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Just officially ordered a cutaway from Savvy Row this morning. I believe it shipped today, I will post photos once it arrives.
Thanks again, gents!

-Max

The Savvy Row cutaway arrived; it is exquisite, better than I've seen in the states anywhere, and for a great price to boot. The luck; it fits me as though it were custom tailored. A few quick photos to come soon!

Thank you all for making the great recommendations and guidance. You have made me a one happy groom.

-Max

Apologies for the lack of a tie, I just threw on a waistcoat and snapped a few photos:

I'm glad it worked out for you. Now you have saved a few dollars you can relax a bit. Good luck with the wedding etc.

Two Types, thank you for your recommendation, this turned out swell.

On a side note, my Magnoli "Chinatown" suit showed up this afternoon as well. Christmas seems to have come early! Those photos up soon as well.

-Max

Two Types said:

You can find really good formal wear on the web. Try this company, 'Savvy Row' http://www.savvyrow.co.uk/

Even with postage from the UK, it will be less than $700. They quite often have some fantastic vintage morning wear, dating back to the twenties and thirties. The vintage morning suit trousers will be far better quality and look far better than modern ones. The weight means they had much better than modern ones. Even the good quality morning suit striped trousers are made from fabrics that are too lightweight to compare to the vintage ones (I think the heaviest fabric i could find was 13oz). They have 1930s morning coats for £65 and 1950s trousers at around the same price.
Good luck.

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The minimum weight for heavy weight fabric is 13 ounces. That is still a good weight, if you want heavy weight fabrics with a thread count under super 100s.

IIRC, H. Lesser & Sons morning stripe trousers are 13.5 ounces, but definitely 2-3% silk and 97-98% wool. Harrisons of Edinburgh has morning stripe trousers that are 13 and 16 ounces and 0-3% silk and 97-100% wool. All of these morning stripe fabrics have an under super 100s thread count.

Tailed morning dress for the wedding and evening dress in the evening - perfect combination and your other guests can wear lounge suits if they wish.

Look at you! Top hat and all. I nearly forgot this thread, I do hope that compliments to you and your bride to be are not too late. you are looking good sir.

So, I have reached an impasse; I can't seem to find a decent waistcoat to go with the morning coat. I would like something single breasted, in a gray/blue color, with working pockets for my watch. Something along these lines would naturally be perfect:



I have watched Savvy Row for a few months, nothing has come up in my particular wants and size, so I was hoping someone might have an alternative source - whether new or used.

-Max

GBR said:

Tailed morning dress for the wedding and evening dress in the evening - perfect combination and your other guests can wear lounge suits if they wish.

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Agreed. Black tie does seem to be becoming the default norm for formal dress at any time of day in the USA, but I fear I'm sufficient stuck in my ways to recoil somewhat at seeing it being sported before 6pm (save, naturally, when worn of necessity en route to an event which takes place after six post meridian). In the UK and Ireland, the predominant norm these days is for the men in the wedding party to wear something approximating morning dress (often with fashionable variations, such s plain black trousers, or pink jackets, or frock coats with Nehru collars....), while guests will all wear lounge suits. Strangely, while white tie has all but died out at the hands of it's semi-formal alternative, the stroller is very rarely seen in the UK - mostly only on undertakers, freemasons and the very elite of the older members of the Orange Order. Anyhow, I'm digressing...

On the matter of changing to white tie for the evening, you can, of course do this - I think it would be rather fun. That said, it is perfectly acceptable to carry on wearing formal daywear at an event which begins during the daytime and carries on into the evening. Were it me, I'd be tempted to go for the change (even if it is only the groom rather than all the men in the wedding party who changes), though having been involved in a number of wedding parties, albeit never as groom, I would suggest you give some thought to the matter of whether you are likely, on the day, to have plenty else with which to concern yourself and might not welcome the hassle of a further change of clothes.

Back to the morning dress, a small suggestion, if I may.... Were it me, I'd be inclined to avoid the whole "matchy-matchy" thing that has become the norm with hired formalwear. I'd be shooting for some variation in there - different men wearing ties and pocket squares that are their own, maybe one in a buff waistcoat, others in grey.... that sort of thing. Think of the effect you get when you see a whole group of men in black tie, where they all conform to the dresscode, but you get a mix of db, sb, waistcoats, cummerbunds.... they look like men in black tie, rather than men in a uniform. If you're shooting for the look of a 'back in the day' event where people would have worn morning dress, which would most likely have been their own rather than a hired "costume", this would get it. Purely a personal, aesthetic choice, though - up to you (and, naturally, your fiance!) what you go for. Whatever you do, you are absolutely right that you will find reasons to wear these things once you have them. Here in London, I go out in white tie about four or five times a year, without even really trying...

Picard1138 said:

So, I have reached an impasse; I can't seem to find a decent waistcoat to go with the morning coat. I would like something single breasted, in a gray/blue color, with working pockets for my watch. Something along these lines would naturally be perfect:
View attachment 8717


I have watched Savvy Row for a few months, nothing has come up in my particular wants and size, so I was hoping someone might have an alternative source - whether new or used.

-Max

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Favourbrook do beautiful (if pricey) stuff, worth looking at them. This single-breasted one would work very well with morning dress, if you are happy for it to have lapels:

http://favourbrook.com/shop/product/Favourbrook-Gabardine-Wool-Waistcoat-Lapel-Grey-FBM2/

Personally, I prefer their DB waistcoats, like this:

http://favourbrook.com/shop/product/Favourbrook-Gabardine-Wool-Waistcoat-Peak-Lapel-Grey-FBM17/

... but that's to personal taste.

Charles Tyrwhitt have also done some quite nice ones from time to time, though the ones they do that would look right with morning dress tend to be db.

Having been on the hunt for morning dress waistcoats myself (just as unsuccessfully!), I have come across a few places which provide them but, alas, are too long in the body for me - plus I'm looking for a DB. These chaps do good ones (my friend wore one of them for his wedding) http://www.pakeman.co.uk/category/80/Morningwear

If anyone comes across a nice vintage DB grey waistcoat in a 36-8 chest, around 19 inches long...I'd very much appreciate it if you let me know!

Edward said:

Black tie does seem to be becoming the default norm for formal dress at any time of day in the USA

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Has it. I hadn't noticed. I do know that the rental shops carry all the different kits and will mention that black tie is for evening wear.