Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
The gentleman made a good coat rack!
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Esquire’s Complete Golden Age Illustrations:
- Thread starter Flanderian
- Start date
The gentleman made a good coat rack!
Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
These are Esquire's January 1941 illustrations.
- Messages
- 16,873
- Location
- New York City
And there's even a book out there to prove it (it's on my bookshelf, really nice pics):
Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
Looks like a great book!
Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
Here is February 1941.
Faux Brummell
Familiar Face
- Messages
- 63
Does anyone know if there were dinner jackets from the 30s and 40s that were as white as some of the examples in Fellows’ illustrations? (As opposed to ivory.)
Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
I have no direct knowledge, but would be very surprised if Mr. Fellow's wasn't simply saving a bit of bother.
Wool is naturally colored, and I suspect there are limits to how white it can be gotten without weakening it unacceptably, and likely even more so during the period. It will also grow darker as the years roll on.
- Messages
- 16,873
- Location
- New York City
⇧ Like Flanderian says, what I've read is that wool is hard to make truly white. And, as he also notes, it would have been even harder with '30s/'40s processes and technology. Even to this day, it's usually cottons or synthetics that are bright white as I can't remember ever seeing a bright-white wool anything. The term "winter white" for wools refers to a color that is more cream than white.
⇩ I know that some espadrilles have ties that look somewhat like the shoes on the gentleman sitting below, but usually the ties are much wider. His shoes look like the offspring of a boat shoe and a very thin espadrille or something. Not hard to understand why that style didn't take off.
Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
Judging from the illustrations and photos I've seen from the period, it would appear that espadrilles with the ankle ties, as depicted here, were the most common form.
Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
These are the March 1941 Esquire illustrations.
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Tiki Tom
My Mail is Forwarded Here
- Messages
- 3,177
- Location
- Oahu, North Polynesia
There are a lot of really nice long top coats in this edition. Is it me, or have they gone somewhat out of style? Too bulky for modern sensibility? I’m guessing that in about two or three weeks it will be cool enough again for me to break out my long coats. They are one of the things that I enjoy about this time of year.
Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
I think that the answer to your simple question isn't simple. Within style/fashion there are differing trends. For example, better tailoring in Asia and Italy is showing lapels that are quite wide with a lower gorge, whereas Britain is still sticking with narrow ones and high gorges, sometimes extremely so, and there are others in various places mixing wide lapels with literally shoulder top gorges. And in the U.S. fashion is showing lapels that are comically narrow.
The general trend in all clothing is toward less, lighter and shorter, acknowledging not only warm climates, but the prevalence of climate controlled buildings and automobile commutes.
My personal approach to fashion is to observe, and then ignore it. If I see something I like I might adopt it, but in general will stick with more classic clothing that I like and feel suits me. If it's fashionable, fine, but more often it isn't. And long coats are a handsome and often practical option. I can't see any reason not to enjoy them.
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Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
Looking good in the classic manner -
Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
As an example, the photo below is from Manhattan retailer Paul Stuart circa 1983. So while both coats are obviously not fashionable, 37 years later they are both still very handsome. Fashion changes, style endures.
Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
These are Esquire's illustrations for April 1941.
- Messages
- 16,873
- Location
- New York City
Coolest thing in this pick is the seaplane:
Love the suit on the right. The waitress has that weary look of being chatted-up by too many college boys everyday.
I've noticed the exact same thing in NYC. Twenty years ago, in the winter, the streets were full of men wearing long traditional overcoats. Ten years ago, it was less common, but you still saw plenty of them. Now, other than in the heart of a business district in NYC, they are rare. And even in the business districts, it's less than 50%, as the under forty crowd (and, now, many over 40) wear puffers, Barbour jackets, peacoat or something similar over their suits (for those still wearing suits). And even the overcoats themselves today tend to be thinner, skinnier and shorter (and usually in solid navy, grey or camel).
Like you, I love a big, heavy traditional overcoat and have several in my closet. I used to wear them all winter as, in the '80s and '90s, it was quite common for younger men (like I was then) to wear traditional overcoats with jeans and a sweater on the weekend. Now, if I did that, I'd get the "old man" comment from friends.
It's not an insecurity that has me wearing my overcoats less, but a desire to strike a balance between dressing for myself and not looking like a relic from a past era or that I have on a costume. I've noted it before, even wearing a pair of unpressed chinos, an Oxford cloth button-down shirt and a tweed sport coat often prompts a "why so dressed up" comment; whereas, in the '80s and '90s, I wore that combo everywhere and don't remember ever hearing a negative remark.
Love the suit on the right. The waitress has that weary look of being chatted-up by too many college boys everyday.
I've noticed the exact same thing in NYC. Twenty years ago, in the winter, the streets were full of men wearing long traditional overcoats. Ten years ago, it was less common, but you still saw plenty of them. Now, other than in the heart of a business district in NYC, they are rare. And even in the business districts, it's less than 50%, as the under forty crowd (and, now, many over 40) wear puffers, Barbour jackets, peacoat or something similar over their suits (for those still wearing suits). And even the overcoats themselves today tend to be thinner, skinnier and shorter (and usually in solid navy, grey or camel).
Like you, I love a big, heavy traditional overcoat and have several in my closet. I used to wear them all winter as, in the '80s and '90s, it was quite common for younger men (like I was then) to wear traditional overcoats with jeans and a sweater on the weekend. Now, if I did that, I'd get the "old man" comment from friends.
It's not an insecurity that has me wearing my overcoats less, but a desire to strike a balance between dressing for myself and not looking like a relic from a past era or that I have on a costume. I've noted it before, even wearing a pair of unpressed chinos, an Oxford cloth button-down shirt and a tweed sport coat often prompts a "why so dressed up" comment; whereas, in the '80s and '90s, I wore that combo everywhere and don't remember ever hearing a negative remark.
- Messages
- 16,873
- Location
- New York City
The entire "Thin Man" series can be watched simply for its clothes and overall style. Even the gangsters often dress as if they walked out of the pages of Esquire. Most of the movies are good, but the style is incredible.
Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
Great photos of great clothes, thanks for posting!
While many aspects of this clothing stands out, it's the cut and fit which most delights me. So precise, but relaxed and flowing at the same time. Relaxed elegance. I'd wear it in a heartbeat.
Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
The illustrations from May 1941.
Flanderian
Practically Family
- Messages
- 833
- Location
- Flanders, NJ, USA
Looking over the posts above it became obvious that I had missed one half of a two page layout. So, I'm providing it here, along with an Interwoven ad, because one just can't have too many SNAZZY socks! 
This might also be a good place to mention that at about this point in its publishing Esquire began making liberal use of fold out pages. (Including the original center fold, from Vargas!) These might be 3 or 4 fold with small portions of an entire scene printed on each panel, but that appeared as complete when closed. Unfortunately, the format in which I have these available results in individual pages, sometimes with bits and pieces of a single sartorial layout which looses all context in this form. These I deliberately did not collect and archive.
This might also be a good place to mention that at about this point in its publishing Esquire began making liberal use of fold out pages. (Including the original center fold, from Vargas!) These might be 3 or 4 fold with small portions of an entire scene printed on each panel, but that appeared as complete when closed. Unfortunately, the format in which I have these available results in individual pages, sometimes with bits and pieces of a single sartorial layout which looses all context in this form. These I deliberately did not collect and archive.
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