Yahoody
One Too Many
- Messages
- 1,110
- Location
- Great Basin
My favorite Sun Body. 5.5" crown, 6" brim.
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Post New Hats Here!
- Thread starter Rundquist
- Start date
1967Cougar390
Practically Family
- Messages
- 789
- Location
- South Carolina
Absolutely stunning! Wear it in good health.Very recent acquisition. 40s Strat try-on.
Steven
Great catch Stefan, and one from the day when the Lock & Co label meant something; that is to say quality over just the name.
I've been somewhat critical of Lock&Co hats over the years. I've haven't handled very many of them, but the overall impression I got from them that they were decent enough hats, but not of a quality to warrant the price asked for them. Having a shop for a few hundred years in one of London's most expensive neighbourhoods does come at a premium of course and that's reflected in their prices. They do seem to put emphasis on being the oldest hat shop in the world and not about the quality of the hats, we know what we're doing, don't we? It also may have to do with them outsourcing their hats, I believe mainly from Christy's, who are certainly not the best English manufacturer.
Enter this hat and I need to reconsider my opinion of Lock&Co hats. First the hat.
Lock&Co fedora in grey, called French Grey on the label with a contrasting thin ribbon in black, which is unusual for English hats, which are more commonly adorned with mid-ribbon or wide ribbons. Size 7 (57) with the raw edge brim at 5,7cm and the crown at 11 cm at the center dent. Wonderful hand to the felt and very lightweight at just 84 grams. The crown patch has a plastic covering, so probably post-war.
I'm thinking late forties or early fifties. By the mid-fifties the English hat-industry was already in trouble, mainly due to supply problems (cuased by myxomatosis) and by the mid-sixties it was all but gone. In the years between they struggled to maintain quality. This however is an excellent hat and by far the best Lock&Co I've handled. This one is certainly on par with what I consider the better English manufacturers: Woodrow, Battersby, T&W Lees, Scott&Co and Failsworth. I photographed it brim snapped down, but it works equally well brim up and may have been designed that way actually. A nice bonus, because I bought it for the Borsalino hat box it came in.
Rose&van Geluwe in Brussels is a high end retailer and tailor and still exists today.
Congrats, Matt. Nice catch. Looks good on you.
"Echter Mayser" in black - size 59 (slightly smaller but fits perfectly) - possibly early/mid 50s (?)
sold at "Joh.(an) Zehme" in Munich - reorder tag with "Hut Seidl" in Munich too
almost unused/perfect condition - very soft and malleable felt - medium wide crown band (3 cm).
super wide (for my hats) brim binding (1,1 cm!) on top and bottom with triple stitching
open, almost straight crown at 14.5 cm; brim at a great 7.0 cm
offered as "Homburg" - for me "Camber style" - also good to wear brim down as "Fedora".
- Messages
- 18,939
- Location
- Central California
Stetson Royal Stratoliner clone. Size 7 1/8 long oval with a 2 1/2” wide bound brim and an open crown height just under 5 1/2”. The felt is very thin and easily dry creased. The contrasting bronze ribbon and binding give it a very vintage look to my eye.
Mean Eyed Matt
One Too Many
- Messages
- 1,104
- Location
- Germany
You're kidding me:
I think I need to get a bigger or a second (?) place
- just for this gigantic pile of great hats!
- Messages
- 10,951
- Messages
- 10,951
Astor Hats of Distinction - Stratoliner Clone
Astor Hats - Stratoliner Clone
Medium Tan light weight felt
Just over 5 1/2 crown open. (About 5 inch with shallow center dent)
3/8 matching grosgrain thin ribbon
2 3/4 brim 1/8 matching grosgrain binding
This is the first of a trio of hats that showed up this weekend. Astor Hats is not a brand I have come across before but it appears to be a very well made hat. This one of the three needed the least cleaning up. Just a real good brushing. It is a Stratoliner style with 2 3/4 brim and about 5 1/2 crown in a medium tan color with a slight reddish hue. Originally sold at Stevens In Petersburg-Princeton, Indiana. There are some very shallow moth tracks here and there but they do not take away from this beauty. With the slightly wider brim, one might make the case this is more of an Open Road clone but I think the thin light weight felt pointed more towards Strat. Probably splitting hairs there as the style is so similar to both. But that’s my impression. All in all this Astor Hats is a prime example of lesser known brands producing damn fine hats.
Astor Hats - Stratoliner Clone
Medium Tan light weight felt
Just over 5 1/2 crown open. (About 5 inch with shallow center dent)
3/8 matching grosgrain thin ribbon
2 3/4 brim 1/8 matching grosgrain binding
This is the first of a trio of hats that showed up this weekend. Astor Hats is not a brand I have come across before but it appears to be a very well made hat. This one of the three needed the least cleaning up. Just a real good brushing. It is a Stratoliner style with 2 3/4 brim and about 5 1/2 crown in a medium tan color with a slight reddish hue. Originally sold at Stevens In Petersburg-Princeton, Indiana. There are some very shallow moth tracks here and there but they do not take away from this beauty. With the slightly wider brim, one might make the case this is more of an Open Road clone but I think the thin light weight felt pointed more towards Strat. Probably splitting hairs there as the style is so similar to both. But that’s my impression. All in all this Astor Hats is a prime example of lesser known brands producing damn fine hats.
Rmccamey
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 5,666
- Location
- Central Texas
Kinda like the Left Twix, Right Twix commercial!
Gotta love when Stetson needs to make a knock off of their own hat
AbbaDatDeHat
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 8,645
Now that is an absolute pinnacle gift for a firefighter. You must be highly thought of to be honored with such a handmade custom.
Much respect
B
Mean Eyed Matt
One Too Many
- Messages
- 1,104
- Location
- Germany
Again a black hat...
...BUT...
...again a wonderful black hat!
These Hückel velours are fantastic
...again and again and again!
...BUT...
...again a wonderful black hat!
These Hückel velours are fantastic
...again and again and again!
- Messages
- 18,939
- Location
- Central California
I don’t know what I like better: the hat or weather that allows you to wear a velour hat and a jacket!
Seriously, that’s an incredible hat and a real survivor. Pre-War hats are so hard to find.
moehawk
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 5,670
- Location
- Northern California
Hey all!
More of this Marathon in the Penney's Marathon thread!
Check it out!
More of this Marathon in the Penney's Marathon thread!
Check it out!
- Messages
- 10,951
Wry nice. Great addition
moehawk
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 5,670
- Location
- Northern California
Thanks Joe!
Thanks Brent. I would have liked warmer weather in August, but every cloud has a silver lining
- Messages
- 10,951
The CHAMP is Here
Feather Weight Champ - Kasmir Finish
Feather Weight Champ - Kasmir Finish
Light to Medium Tan Felt with. Warm tones
4 3/4 crown as shaped
3/4 matching grosgrain mid ribbon
2 3/4 brim with 1/8 matching grosgrain binding
Black and Gold Feather Weight Scale logo with feather
Here is the second hat from the trio that arrived recently. These second two hats required a good steaming in addition to the heavy brushing to bring them around. Both of these hats suffered from a phenomenon I refer to as “Puckering” where the base of the crown is actually puckered in in spots around the hat band. I’m not sure what the cause… though I suspect it may be caused when hats were stacked tightly for long periods of time or it may be the hats may have shrunken somewhat… or some combination there of. Whatever the cause.. I’ve had decent results in the past steaming the puckers out. So far I haven’t gotten rid of them entirely but reduced the effect dramatically. I would bet if they were placed on a block and steamed and left to dry it might smooth them out entirely. I’m happy with the results for now though. I have another one of these Feather weight Champs that is a bit more minty condition. Other than condition though the only differences between the two a slight difference in color.. this one a hair lighter with warmer tones compared to the slightly reddish tones of the Toast color indicated on the fresher hat. The other difference is in the sweat logo. They both have the black and gold Feather Weight Champ scale logo. This one has a feather on the left side of the scale the other has two packs of cigarettes. I wonder which was first. There is one small dark spot on the crown I was able to scrub out some but not remove it’s camouflaged slightly in the pinch. I cleaned off some dried sweat salt from the sweatband and smoothed over a damp fingers worth of coconut oil to moisten it up a bit. Had to be pretty careful looking underneath the sweat as even though it wasn’t entirely brittle it was stiff enough to leave some concern. I did not find any manufacturers tag other than a square 7 1/8 size sticker. Interesting enough this 7 1/8 seems to fit closer to a size 7 than even my size 7 Champ. Maybe some evidence toward the “puckering” being a shrinkage issue.
Feather Weight Champ - Kasmir Finish
Feather Weight Champ - Kasmir Finish
Light to Medium Tan Felt with. Warm tones
4 3/4 crown as shaped
3/4 matching grosgrain mid ribbon
2 3/4 brim with 1/8 matching grosgrain binding
Black and Gold Feather Weight Scale logo with feather
Here is the second hat from the trio that arrived recently. These second two hats required a good steaming in addition to the heavy brushing to bring them around. Both of these hats suffered from a phenomenon I refer to as “Puckering” where the base of the crown is actually puckered in in spots around the hat band. I’m not sure what the cause… though I suspect it may be caused when hats were stacked tightly for long periods of time or it may be the hats may have shrunken somewhat… or some combination there of. Whatever the cause.. I’ve had decent results in the past steaming the puckers out. So far I haven’t gotten rid of them entirely but reduced the effect dramatically. I would bet if they were placed on a block and steamed and left to dry it might smooth them out entirely. I’m happy with the results for now though. I have another one of these Feather weight Champs that is a bit more minty condition. Other than condition though the only differences between the two a slight difference in color.. this one a hair lighter with warmer tones compared to the slightly reddish tones of the Toast color indicated on the fresher hat. The other difference is in the sweat logo. They both have the black and gold Feather Weight Champ scale logo. This one has a feather on the left side of the scale the other has two packs of cigarettes. I wonder which was first. There is one small dark spot on the crown I was able to scrub out some but not remove it’s camouflaged slightly in the pinch. I cleaned off some dried sweat salt from the sweatband and smoothed over a damp fingers worth of coconut oil to moisten it up a bit. Had to be pretty careful looking underneath the sweat as even though it wasn’t entirely brittle it was stiff enough to leave some concern. I did not find any manufacturers tag other than a square 7 1/8 size sticker. Interesting enough this 7 1/8 seems to fit closer to a size 7 than even my size 7 Champ. Maybe some evidence toward the “puckering” being a shrinkage issue.
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- Messages
- 18,939
- Location
- Central California
Great hat, Joe. I wonder if it’s the sweatband that shrinks and since it’s sewn to the felt the felt goes along for the ride?
- Messages
- 10,951
It is very possible. I only remember one other hat I had it happen significantly on was my St Regis. If my memory is correct (and it may not be) That one I don’t think seemed to have shrunken in size. This one though does feel a bit more snug than 7 1/8.
here is a look of the before. It actually arrived quite a bit more smashed up than this photo… the Lion on the right I’ll post tomorrow
