Can someone please help me find this type of leather jacket?

1) Heavy cotton drill is certainly the best choice at 5*.
Possibly also nylon, which I have not seen personally.
Wool tartan and quilted has not excited me.

2) For leather, I would say premium goat is the best 5* has to offer. However, I personally can only make this recommendation for black and seal. Russet is very chocolate colored and feels a bit plasticky. Probably the top coat is too thick. But that may have changed in the meantime.
Steerhide is very soft, even at 1.3 mm. This could be that it is too soft for this jacket.
I don't think the jacket from the movie has more than 1.3 mm, looking at the screenshots. Or the fold at the seams is skived leather.
I don't know the horse hide, but it seems too thin and also too soft.
The thicker CXL leather is much too stiff for a jacket, even if the thickness is reduced.
Buffalo I could imagine for this jacket. At least when I remember some pictures of it.

3) You probably won't get the look of the jacket unless you use distressed leather. Or you can wear it for a while.
Distressed buffalo in dark brown could be your choice.

6) as you like. I have jackets with and without inside pockets. Since I usually don't use them, I don't care at all.
In this respect... if you use them, configure them, if not, leave them out.
But since your project seems to be a mall jacket, it will certainly have an inside pocket on the left side originally. I have never seen a mall jacket without an inside pocket.

Zangy003 said:

1.) He asked what kind of "inner lining" the jacket should have. He asked if I have any photos of the inner lining. Unfortunately there's only a quick moment where he goes to open his car trunk, lasting maybe a second or less. See here:

The inside color I would definitely describe as "light beige"... but I have no idea what kind of inside / lining material is suitable for this. It shouldn't be something very cheap, but also not something that significantly increases the price, as the exterior of the jacket is the key here. I guess it should be somewhat warm, but nothing extraordinary, so that it can be worn not only in Winter but also in Autumn and perhaps even some colder days of Spring.

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This too goes along with my Avirex/Cockpit theory as it looks very similar to the particular beige quilted cotton lining they often used back then. Lovely lining. Cotton, though stuffed with polyester wool for warmth.

In any case, cotton lining is a very nice, breathable option for medium warmth. It would indeed make your jacket more usable in warmer days but you might need to layer during those cold, German winters.

2)
And since I really want a thick jacket that doesn't "stretch" and/or lose it's shape easily, would it make sense to go for 1.6 mm thickness or even higher? I really don't mind it being heavy, if that's a concern. Screen accuracy is the goal here.

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Steerhide or horsehide. Heavier, thicker; the better.

4)
Could it be that the "belt" looking thingie we think exists is actually an illusion? How likely is it that what we see in this picture...

...is simply where the cuff attachment starts, and that this starting point created an illusion in the other picture in the dark where he's holding himself up?

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That's what I initially thought but then once @navetsea drew the little strap, I began seeing it too. I will re-do some of the details on my drawing today and present you with the final and definite sketch of the jacket.

5)I believe - cuff related - that there should be two studs / layers of tightness, just like in the orange jacket. Does this seem reasonable? I need to make sure I can have both very loose sleeves and also be able to "block" them from going too far down.

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I highly doubt it. Leather doesn't fold as easily as textile, especially heavy sort such as this and the sleeve opening would have to depend on a snap which is hardly considered a pinnacle of fastening to begin with - Henceforth, it is often used in an addition of a zipper - so the chances are, a single snap would never be able to securely hold any significantly tight cuff setting.

6)Most of my jackets have at least one inside pocket. On most of them there is at least one on the upper left side with a zipper. Would it make sense to do the same thing here? I don't think I've seen a single jacket that does not have at least one pocket on the inside.

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We're probably talking two here, each on one side. Possibly more. It was a norm in the 90's.

9)But would it not be wise for me to get my own measurements so that I can adjust the measurements of the jacket accordingly?

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Yes. I thought this goes without saying. I wasn't aware it's even an option.
You will absolutely provide 5* with your own measurements & you will also measure whichever jacket you have that you think fits the closest to the jacket from the series. This should present them with a clear image of what is it that you want. Hopefully.[/QUOTE][/quote]

This is as far as I can understand this jacket. I've revised some things, added a snap closure stripe I've clearly missed the first time, altered the tab setup as I initially saw it... Hope it helps.

There's not much more I can do, anyway.

Well this thread is a ride.

May I ask if one of your main reasons for needing a jacket like this is for cos-play purposes? Are you planning to attend an X-Files/Sci Fi con as this character?

Damn, the new drawing looks exceptional!

I'm typing from my phone, so I'll write more when I get home on the computer, and also reply to Rawky's question above.

Rawky said:

Well this thread is a ride.

May I ask if one of your main reasons for needing a jacket like this is for cos-play purposes? Are you planning to attend an X-Files/Sci Fi con as this character?

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Believe it or not, I completely dislike "cos-playing". I don't ridicule people who do it, but it's just not my thing... like, at all.

There is nothing X-Files-ey (lol) about this jacket either. I guarantee you that even the most hardcore fans of the series would not be able to tell you - if you asked them about this particular episode - what kind of jacket the guy was wearing or even the most basic information about how he was dressed. It's a character who appears in only two episodes out of over two hundred. In this episode with the jacket, he has about 1 minute total screen time. In another previous episode he has a bit more, although he wears a business suit in that one. The significance of the character itself is very important, in terms of the "larger picture" of the series, but aside from that if I were to walk into a room full of the most hardcore fans of the series, I guarantee you not a single person would think of this episode or this character.

How this particular idea came to be was: I recently started buying various jackets for fall and winter, including many leather ones. I used to like leather jackets in the past, but recently I started to like them even more. And around this time recently as I was buying them, I remembered a couple of leather jackets from this series. There are MANY leather jackets on the show that are cool, much more fashionable and better looking than this one... but for some reason, this particular one caught my eye because of how unusual it is.

To further elaborate... I have several favorite TV shows, but TXF is at the top. I'm not that much into newer shows and newer movies. I prefer older stuff. And when I say TXF is "at the top"... I mean, for example, having spent lots of time and money getting certain prop replicas from the show custom made, and helping other fans create them as well. Very high valued prop replicas. But they are really popular and recognizable ones, totally unlike this jacket, lol. I've never tried - until now - to get a piece of clothing custom made / reproduced.

Hope this helps.

Monitor said:

This is as far as I can understand this jacket. I've revised some things, added a snap closure stripe I've clearly missed the first time, altered the tab setup as I initially saw it... Hope it helps.

There's not much more I can do, anyway.

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You've done more than enough dude! Can you just help me understand... what do you mean by snap closure "stripe"?

Zangy003 said:

You've done more than enough dude! Can you just help me understand... what do you mean by snap closure "stripe"?

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That separated band or strip or however you wanna call it, with the snap sockets, located at the right side of the jacket.

Monitor said:

That separated band or strip or however you wanna call it, with the snap sockets, located at the right side of the jacket.

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Thanks. Understood... I think.

This too goes along with my Avirex/Cockpit theory as it looks very similar to the particular beige quilted cotton lining they often used back then. Lovely lining. Cotton, though stuffed with polyester wool for warmth.

In any case, cotton lining is a very nice, breathable option for medium warmth. It would indeed make your jacket more usable in warmer days but you might need to layer during those cold, German winters.

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Gotcha. I've decided on basic cotton lining, plain without pattern, light beige color:

Steerhide or horsehide. Heavier, thicker; the better.

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Yeah I get various different opinions on this. Do you have a good link that explains the biggest differences between steer and horsehide, or a gallery of pictures with various thicknesses?

I highly doubt it. Leather doesn't fold as easily as textile, especially heavy sort such as this and the sleeve opening would have to depend on a snap which is hardly considered a pinnacle of fastening to begin with - Henceforth, it is often used in an addition of a zipper - so the chances are, a single snap would never be able to securely hold any significantly tight cuff setting.

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Understood. Makes sense.

We're probably talking two here, each on one side. Possibly more. It was a norm in the 90's.

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Got it. I'll just do one pocket on each side, in the upper regions.

Alright, so, regarding my specific questions in post #213: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...of-leather-jacket.106274/page-11#post-2879762

Where I am as of right now...

Questions that have been fully resolved: #1, #4, #5, #6, #9, #10

(#10 was resolved publicly in the thread as well via PM. Donations are not accepted but my offer is appreciated.)

Questions that are unresolved: #2, #3, #7, #8

Regarding #2 and #3: I will just have to look at various jackets with different leathers, colors and thickness. No one will be able to give a definitive answer on this, which is totally understandable.

Regarding #7: The first part of the question was answered - the zipper part was added in the final drawing - but the second part of the question regarding that one seam on the sleeve I'm not sure whether it was answered. It may very well have been answered through the final drawing itself, but it's just my fault for not understanding it.

Regarding #8: About the "Maybe?"-part with the purple line on the backside of the jacket in the drawing. I think it would be best for me to remove this in order to avoid confusion for the maker. Thoughts?

Aside from the aforementioned unresolved questions, the most important next step for me right now is figuring out the precise dimensions.

My instinct tells me it wasn't horse leather, for sure. Based on my current knowledge and the fact that I have seen such jackets many times in the real world, I assume it was a "medium weight" (3oz) cow.
The lining in all of these jackets was quilted. And all the linings were very dark in color.

It is very strange that no one here will recognize such jackets. These were very prominent and popular jackets in Europe in the 90s.

born113 said:

My instinct tells me it wasn't horse leather, for sure. Based on my current knowledge and the fact that I have seen such jackets many times in the real world, I assume it was a "medium weight" (3oz) cow.
The lining in all of these jackets was quilted. And all the linings were very dark in color.

It is very strange that no one here will recognize such jackets. These were very prominent and popular jackets in Europe in the 90s.

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The lining on this one is clearly light beige, and not quilted:

Below are three pictures of me wearing a Ski-Jacket from the late 80s or early 90s, that has a fairly large top sleeve circumference of 56 cm (22"). Would it be reasonable to use this measurement for this custom jacket, based on the photos below?

Zangy003 said:

Below are three pictures of me wearing a Ski-Jacket from the late 80s or early 90s, that has a fairly large top sleeve circumference of 56 cm (22"). Would it be reasonable to use this measurement for this custom jacket, based on the photos below?

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Loosen up the wrists to see if they fall to the knuckles like the TV jacket. Also the TV jacket seems to go all the way down past you hips, almost to the front pocket in his pants.

Overall, you might have found your fit jacket.

f2002q said:

Loosen up the wrists to see if they fall to the knuckles like the TV jacket.

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The jacket was borrowed from someone who is also helping me with this, so right now I don't have it available, but I did loosen up the wrists and the sleeve went down to the knuckles. We used this jacket mainly for the top sleeve circumference though, not anything else, because the person had a feeling that it would be similar as far as that measurement is concerned. I can borrow it anytime again if needed, but I don't think it has any other use except for the large part of the sleeve.

Also the TV jacket seems to go all the way down past you hips, almost to the front pocket in his pants.

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Yes, of course, I know. I own jackets that have that same length as the original, and I've already decided on the total length from top to bottom. This borrowed jacket was just regarding the sleeve circumference.

Overall, you might have found your fit jacket.

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One of the most annoying things about all this is how to explain the sleeve LENGTH. I know how much I want it to go down, but how do I display it best, seeing how in all the photos and drawings the shoulder seams are much lower than in a normal jacket. If it was a regular fitting jacket I would just measure from shoulder seam to end of the sleeve, but I can't do that in this case.

Zangy003 said:

Below are three pictures of me wearing a Ski-Jacket from the late 80s or early 90s, that has a fairly large top sleeve circumference of 56 cm (22"). Would it be reasonable to use this measurement for this custom jacket, based on the photos below?

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No; Getting measurements for a leather jacket off a nylon jacket of such a sort is a sure path toward a massive disaster.

Zangy003 said:

If it was a regular fitting jacket I would just measure from shoulder seam to end of the sleeve, but I can't do that in this case.

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Exactly the same here.
Assuming you have 19" shoulders and 25" sleeve length on a well-fitting jacket, the shoulders on this jacket will probably be 24". Then the sleeve length would be 22.5" from the shoulder seam.

Monitor said:

No; Getting measurements for a leather jacket off a nylon jacket of such a sort is a sure path toward a massive disaster.

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Unfortunately, what you say makes sense as well. :/

We were just trying to see whether the large top sleeve circumference would be similar, but I get your point. Different material, it shapes and fits differently.

Monitor said:

No; Getting measurements for a leather jacket off a nylon jacket of such a sort is a sure path toward a massive disaster.

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99% of the time I would agree with you but I think the oversized nature of this jacket will be a little more forgiving than if he was going for something like a fitted cafe racer. It is certainly true though that leather does not drape the way nylon does, particularly if a heavier stiffer leather is selected for the jacket.

Monitor said:

No; Getting measurements for a leather jacket off a nylon jacket of such a sort is a sure path toward a massive disaster.

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Not necessarily. If the material is similarly thick and not too soft, then it can work. I transferred the measurements of my first FiveStar from a fabric jacket to leather and that worked out quite well. But of course it can also go wrong. lol

MrProper said:

Exactly the same here.
Assuming you have 19" shoulders and 25" sleeve length on a well-fitting jacket, the shoulders on this jacket will probably be 24". Then the sleeve length would be 22.5" from the shoulder seam.

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I was thinking like this: Let's say I have a jacket that fits normally. The shoulder seams are sitting where they should be, but the jacket has my desired sleeve length of the original. I measure the sleeve of that jacket from shoulder seam to the end of the sleeve, then decide how much the shoulder seams need to drop, and then subtract that difference?

But if I subtract that amount... then I need to compensate for it somehow, by measuring the remainder of the upper sleeve portion? LMAO I know this sounds retarded.

Ah... I think I need to take a break from this guys, my thinking is totally slow right now.