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1930s check tweed jacket art deco label

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
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USA
I like the cloth but the pattern is rather shabbily matched at the shoulders and front quarters. As one of my old Italian tailors would say of matching the the pattern at the shoulder, "They gotta shaka da hands"......
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
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13,719
Location
USA
pattern matching isn't a vintage obsession, more a modern bespoke obsession.
The tailor I'm referring to would be near 120 years old were he alive today. He was trained by his father and uncle in Napoli and then sent to America at the onset of WWII. He seemed to consider the pattern matching a very important detail of his craft and dismissed anything less as shoddy work.
 
The fronts are particularly bad on this example. On "normal" width fabric, and "standard" method of cutting, I should have thought this would be impossible? Perhaps the fabric was made on a narrow loom, and there wasn't much of it? If you're having to make do with what fabric you have, sometimes matching is impossible.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
if you look at the fronts, the dark horizontal stripes start off about right across the top, then get gradually more and more out of alignment as they go down. there's only one possible explanation i can think of for this; the fabric on the left side (our right) had stretched more than the other side before it was cut and the tailor didn't notice.

A.C., i've seen many examples of pattern matching on vintage British clothing that would be considered shoddy today, and i can only assume that it wasn't a major concern back then, so perhaps it's more of a Brit thing ?
 

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