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1940s Style New Fedora

James McNinney

New in Town
Messages
2
Greetings, all! I have lurked around these parts for quite a while, and have just joined.

I am beginning to search for my first fedora which I plan on purchasing within the next, perhaps, 3-6 months.

I am looking for one that is similar in shape to those worn from about the mid 1930s to mid 1950s. I have seen the Akubra Stylemaster/Bogart oft recommended, but the crown seems a bit low, and I would prefer a hat without taper. I have also heard good things about the Federation IV, but understand that it is a very large hat. I want a fedora, not a cowboy hat, after all. Lastly, I was looking at the Borsalino Bogart, which I would be willing to pay the extra for, if indeed it fits my wants. Below are some images of the type of fedora I am looking for:
65a28873a39b17953fb2a13eec569a2e.jpg

american-actor-jack-webb-poses-in-a-fedora-in-a-promotional-portrait-picture-id3244832

What do you think? Would any of my Ideas fit the bill? Is there another that would be better?

Lastly, I do apologize if this has been discussed before. I tried finding other threads that addressed this, but to no avail.

Thanks to all for their help!
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,070
Location
San Francisco, CA
The Fed IV would be the best choice of an "off the rack" hat for a Bogart style. I agree with Brent, it is not particularly large, although they often seem intimidating to new hat wearers because it does have a full, boxy crown.

Though since you have a good idea of what you want, you may want to consider commissioning a custom hat. While Akubra offers a great value for the price point, you can get a higher quality, custom fit hat for not much more money.
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,665
Location
Central Ohio
Greetings, all! I have lurked around these parts for quite a while, and have just joined.

I am beginning to search for my first fedora which I plan on purchasing within the next, perhaps, 3-6 months.

I am looking for one that is similar in shape to those worn from about the mid 1930s to mid 1950s. I have seen the Akubra Stylemaster/Bogart oft recommended, but the crown seems a bit low, and I would prefer a hat without taper. I have also heard good things about the Federation IV, but understand that it is a very large hat. I want a fedora, not a cowboy hat, after all. Lastly, I was looking at the Borsalino Bogart, which I would be willing to pay the extra for, if indeed it fits my wants. Below are some images of the type of fedora I am looking for:
65a28873a39b17953fb2a13eec569a2e.jpg

american-actor-jack-webb-poses-in-a-fedora-in-a-promotional-portrait-picture-id3244832

What do you think? Would any of my Ideas fit the bill? Is there another that would be better?

Lastly, I do apologize if this has been discussed before. I tried finding other threads that addressed this, but to no avail.

Thanks to all for their help!
You can have one custom made. That way you can work directly with your Hatter, give him the style and dimensions you're after, and get exactly what you want....and prices for a custom may be more affordable than you think. Check out Rick Walker of the Phoenix Hat Company.
 
Messages
10,478
Location
vancouver, canada
In the market place of new hats there is a style gap. Some Akubra offerings (Sydney/Stylemaster/Bogart are lower in crown and then with the Federation or the Campdraft as well as the Stetsonians they leap up another notch in fullness as well as the slightly wider brim.

I am a bit of a broken record on this but have you given thought to a custom? I realize a custom is a big price point rise from an Akubra but about the same price point as a modern Stetson. If you have patience keep an eye out here in The Lounge for an older/vintage Borsalino. 4 1/4" -4 1/2" crown height and a 2 3/8 to 2 1/2" brim width do come up. Depending on your size they do pop up here regularly if not frequently. Especially watch out for Danielle Tanto out of Italy. He lists some great hats at very fair pricing. Also Scott at FineVintageFedoras on Etsy sells good vintage at very fair pricing. He is a hat guy so his descriptions are accurate.

Returning to the custom suggestion a 50% deposit will get you a spot in the queue of most hatters and start saving your pennies for the rest. You will not likely regret going the custom route. If custom is something you might consider drop me a PM and I can direct you to some great hatters that don't require a bank loan.
 

GHT

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,436
Location
New Forest
Some time ago I remember reading that Borsalino's new owners had teamed up with The Bogart Estate to produce, or reproduce, the Casablanca hat, not cheap mind, just shy of five hundred bucks. Did you know that Ingrid Bergman's hat was also made by Borsalino? Not that you would want one but if you had to justify spending $500 you might find that she rather likes Ingrid's hat.

The hat is on the Bogart website, but you probably know that. Sometimes I find, that which I so wanted, can quickly tarnish once the novelty has worn off. It might be worth looking at other hats, for example, Bogart portrayed Philip Marlowe in the 1946 movie: "The Big Sleep." You can get a Marlowe hat at a fraction of the price. https://www.tomdickandharry.co.uk/a...a-marlowe-fur-felt-fedora-hat-mole-brown.html That link will take you to a UK website, if you are not UK based, just Google something like Bogart/Marlowe/Fedora.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Thank you all for your responses, thus far. This custom hat thing is intriguing. Might I find a hatter who will make me one for under four bills?

P.s. belfastboy, pm sent

Several hatter can make you a great custom 100% beaver hat for less than that. You should talk to Rick @humanshoes and he can help you out. He’s a great guy and even if you go with another hatter you’ll appreciate the education.
 
Messages
10,478
Location
vancouver, canada
I suggest a Stetson Whippet would be a good starter. You don't even know whether you'd like the care and attention a decent hat entails, and you're ready to spend $400? Not necessarily the best choice.

At MSRP of $200, it's a good entry-level hat.

https://www.stetson.com/store/hats/fedora/whippet-2.html?color=caribou

Tom
For just a few dollars more a guy can get a custom hat made to his spec. And that would be a waaay better hat than an entry level Stetson.
 

HatNut-Jack

New in Town
Messages
17
Check out Kevin from JJ Hat Center's you Tube videos on the 2019-2020 fedoras. He's kinda quirking but his videos are informative. They now carry Akubras and Stetsons as does Delmonico Hatters. Both provide excellent service. I have bought my Akubras from Hats by the Hundred in Australia. Cheaper than in the states but takes a little longer to get. Akubras are a little stiffer than Stetsons and will hold up better to the weather. Hats by The Hundred also have excellent videos. Beware, you may buy more than you intended!
 

johnnycanuck

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,008
Location
Alberta
17FE003C-C229-4184-9F86-DBC041846208.jpeg
17FE003C-C229-4184-9F86-DBC041846208.jpeg My first custom hat I wanted one that looked like Joe Friday’s. I asked Art Fawcett to make me one and this is what he came up with. I snap mine lower than Jack Webb but it’s pretty damn close. I say go for rabbit felt custom that should run you $250. Anyone should be able to make you a good reproduction.
Johnny
 
Messages
10,478
Location
vancouver, canada
I watched the whole thing. I didn’t learn anything or see anything interesting, but Kevin is so amped up and twitchy I couldn’t look away. Definitely not the stately old-school haberdasher displaying his wares.
Interesting, my response was to turn it off....could not stand his twitchy manner....like nails on a chalk board. I have watched other videos of his and he was not that twitchy.
 

Louis Mountbatten

One of the Regulars
Messages
291
Greetings, all! I have lurked around these parts for quite a while, and have just joined.

I am beginning to search for my first fedora which I plan on purchasing within the next, perhaps, 3-6 months.

I am looking for one that is similar in shape to those worn from about the mid 1930s to mid 1950s. I have seen the Akubra Stylemaster/Bogart oft recommended, but the crown seems a bit low, and I would prefer a hat without taper. I have also heard good things about the Federation IV, but understand that it is a very large hat. I want a fedora, not a cowboy hat, after all. Lastly, I was looking at the Borsalino Bogart, which I would be willing to pay the extra for, if indeed it fits my wants. Below are some images of the type of fedora I am looking for:[
[
What do you think? Would any of my Ideas fit the bill? Is there another that would be better?

Lastly, I do apologize if this has been discussed before. I tried finding other threads that addressed this, but to no avail.

Thanks to all for their help!

You need to do a few things first before you buy. There are certain styles that accentuate your type of face shape better than others. There are guides on that posted somewhere on this forum. Also, narrow down the style you want a bit more. The two photos you showed are very different hats. The Bogart one is more 30s era with a 2-3/8 brim. It looks like Webb's is 2-1/2.
 

SteveFord

A-List Customer
Messages
466
Oh, it got on my nerves. I watched it out of professional curiosity that had nothing to do with hats.

I've seen videos of him working on hats, I don't think he's one of the sales people but I could be wrong. When I was in there many years ago I recall being waited on by an older gentleman who was really pleasant to deal with.

Hello, I'm looking for a bowler...
Yes, that's a perfect fit, would you like it monogrammed with your initials?

That kind of thing.
 

Apollo

Familiar Face
Messages
84
View attachment 220145 View attachment 220145 My first custom hat I wanted one that looked like Joe Friday’s. I asked Art Fawcett to make me one and this is what he came up with. I snap mine lower than Jack Webb but it’s pretty damn close. I say go for rabbit felt custom that should run you $250. Anyone should be able to make you a good reproduction.
Johnny
Hey, What is the brim?
 

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