30s-50s British Suit Trouser photo resource

[Mike1973]

not plus fours

Right, read the thread title properly this time, so here's some suit trousers...

I now nothing about this suit, there are no labels inside. Bought in a house clearance/junk shop in Pompey so would assume it's an British suit.

 

[Jovan]

The forward pleats would seem to indicate it, though I'm pretty sure there were a good size of American makers who still did them that way.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

There absolutely were.

Those are certainly not American, though.

bk

 

[Jovan]

What tells you that?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

certainly is a bad word. I should refrain from using it.

But . . .

the extender tab with hook fastener, the external suspender buttons and the type of buttons used, the rise to the back of the waistband, the buttoned pocket on the right buttock instead of the left (i'm willing to bet there is no pocket on the left buttock), the forward pleats and the stitch work at the top and bottom of the side seam pockets.

When all of these occur together, and are found on a pair of trousers found in Portsmouth, one can be pretty sure they're English.

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

they look to me like the type mentioned previously; early-mid 50s English trousers that still have the 40s shape.

 

[Jovan]

Ah, I didn't even notice that tab because of the dark lining. I like the rectangular extended tabs with hook. Looks cleaner than a button, so it goes well with non-pleated trousers.

 

[Braces]

What a fabulous thread. These are the type of trousers I tend to wear most days. Will try and post some pics soon.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

i hope to see them . . .

Have another pair to post myself that i picked up on Friday. soon.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Not quite sure of the era these are from. Could be any time between the 30s and the 50s. Associated with this suit:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showpost.php?p=302511&postcount=284

Pretty much standard British trousers shape:

High fishtail back, forward pleats 'n button fly

The rear has double sets of suspender buttons

The rear pocket flap. Compare to earlier examples.

 

[benstephens]

Hi Baron,

I would say those trousers are 1930s. The Suit is interesting, I have seen some CWS labbelled Items, but none saying Bespoke, so this may have been the top range?

I can not make out the word under the CWS part?

Ben

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Ben,

Interesting. What is CWS? I did a quick check this morning on google but didn't come up with much

Pelaw is a part of Gateshead. I suspect a village that's been swallowed. It was sent from another part of Gateshead from a member of the family of the guy who had it made.

bk

 

[Anthony Jordan]

I am 99% positive that it stands for "Co-operative Wholesale Society" or, in other words, the Co-Op!

One of my favourite dinner jackets was a CWS production and I also own a black 3-button notched lapel morning jacket/stroller with matching waistcoat which was made by the CWS and retailed by their Newport, Monmouthshire branch, in the 1950s at a guess.

Interesting to notice the double-button configuration on the fishtail back; I recently bought a 3-piece grey suit in Caerphilly which had these. I took it in to be altered today, I hope that the feature survives the waist being taken in... The only other example I've seen was an incredibly rough and heavy pair of gray flannels which are one of my prized possessions. [These have the buttons inside rather than outside, though.]

ETA that I see someone on the other thread beat me to the punch!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

It's an interesting feature. I saw it on a few suits at the Hammersmith vintage clothing show a couple of weeks ago.

Interesting to notice the double-button configuration on the fishtail back; I recently bought a 3-piece grey suit in Caerphilly which had these. I took it in to be altered today, I hope that the feature survives the wait being taken in... The only other example I've seen was an incredibly rough and heavy pair of gray flannels which are one of my prized possessions.

Have you a digital camera? Let's see the trousers if you do!

bk

 

[benstephens]

Yes thats right the Co-op. I have a suit with it in as well. I will have a look tonight and try and get a photo of it.

I had read they had a bespoke range, but have never seen an actual item. It would be interesting to compare the quality.

Kindest regards

Ben

 

[Anthony Jordan]

Some pictures, as requested:

Grey flannels:

Morning trousers:

Stroller/morning jacket trousers (note turn-ups):

Spongebag check morning tousers:

Tramline stripe:

Green high-backs:

White flannel trousers:

Denman & Goddard suit trousers (a bit out of period at 1965, but note the interesting "rabbit ears" for brace buttons, the idea of which is that they could tuck away and the suit be held up with the side adjusters in the event that you didn't wish to wear braces):

(Apparently a very Anderson & Sheppard touch, Alan Flusser is supposed to have introduced them to the U.S.)

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Cool trousers. Those extender tabs for the back suspender buttons are very common on German trousers of the 30s and 40s.

bk

 

[GBR]

What a rich source of inspiration this thread is proving to be - an ideal spring board to detail my first pair of such trousers (as part of a suit) for thirty years or more.

One thing there is a reference to a "flapped watch pocket" in many comments. In many parts of the UK this was actually used (and called) a cash pocket/fob pocket. The idea being that in the days before credit cards and the like which all stuff wallets with these days, a gentleman would keep any 'paper' money in this pocket. Hence in a quite a number of such trousers there was no back pocket at all, let alone the two which is now normal.

I certainly remember my first bespoke suit with this feature which I got when I was about 17 from my late father's tailor (at his expense) when I was about to set off on the interview round for university which was normal in the 1960s and 1970s. I certainly started to use this immediately and very much regret not having had it for years althoiugh it has to be said that wallets now predominate - be they back pocket or inside jacket pocket. The high rise and button fly were there too - no indulging youthful preference by this tailor - or father.

It would be interesting to do a similar thread on the coat as well.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

What a rich source of inspiration this thread is proving to be - an 9ideal spring board to detail my first pair of such trousers (as part of a suit) for thirty years or more.

Then you'll also enjoy the following: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=17272


.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

you and your German trousers . . .

bk