Aero Premier HWY - Guidance needed

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by AlexB, Sep 25, 2019.

  1. AlexB

    AlexB One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    276
    Location:
    Berlin
    Hi everybody,

    Aero jacket #3 is in the making. I plan to add a civilian jacket to the family of motorcycle inspired jackets (Boardracer and Ridley).
    Together with Carrie I kicked off the process of getting a Premier Highwayman.
    Yesterday I received the fit jacket and would like to ask for your thoughts. I will not include my thoughts at this point in time to leave everyone unbiased.
    My other two jackets are size 46, this Premier HWY is a 44. I have to say that both of my other jackets do not have a particularly snug fit.
    If there are any other recommendations regarding a Premier HWY, I am open for advise.
    I want to go with brown FQHH - not sure whether going tumbled or normal (again).

    PS: I know there are several threads on the fitting of this jacket, but since everyone is different I thought I open a new one.

    Looking forward to receive feedback!

    Cheers,
    Alex
    T-Shirt-back.jpg T-Shirt-back2.jpg T-Shirt-front.jpg T-Shirt-front2.jpg T-Shirt-side.jpg T-Shirt-side2.jpg T-Shirt-wings.jpg
     
  2. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,977
    Location:
    Chicago
    Taper the waist! Chest and shoulders look good. Drop a size at the waist. I’m offended I didn’t get a pm on this question. LOL.
    I went conservative with a 44” tapered 1” and could’ve easily gone down a full size taper for a 42” waist.
    I think you can too Alex. You can play it safe like me and just do the 1”. Or go balls to the wall and drop the waist to a 42”. It’s what I should’ve done done but just wasn’t sure as I went in blind and no experience with the pattern. The premier range seems to narrow everything but the waist in this model. Plus the HWM, premier or not, is just a boxier pattern.
     
  3. Will Zach

    Will Zach One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,136
    Location:
    Northeast USA
    Isn't tapering what the side buckles are for? Cinching and effectively tapering the waist? Or are they purely decorative objects?
     
  4. AlexB

    AlexB One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    276
    Location:
    Berlin
    Yes, you can use them for that but the tapering actually starts underneath the arm pit. So it’s more like just cinching in leather.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  5. El Marro

    El Marro Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,356
    Location:
    California
    I was a bit surprised to see this as well, looks like a great fit other than at the waist.
     
  6. El Marro

    El Marro Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,356
    Location:
    California
    The side buckles on the Highwayman do a little more then create a balloon affect when you cinch them in all the way. I attempted this on my Highwayman and it made a bad fit worse.
     
    jacketjunkie, seres and ton312 like this.
  7. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,977
    Location:
    Chicago
    Agreed. The buckles when pulled in create a balloon of leather. Better to taper the waist and ignore the buckles.
     
    Guppy, Carlos840 and El Marro like this.
  8. Will Zach

    Will Zach One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,136
    Location:
    Northeast USA
    So taper is basically the difference between pit to pit and hem width measurements?
     
  9. Psant25

    Psant25 One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,042
    Id add some length and call it a day. Pulling it to the side you see all that material, but it is totally snug on the other side. I dont think you would want it that snug on this pattern. Or maybe you do.
     
  10. Will Zach

    Will Zach One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,136
    Location:
    Northeast USA
    Sleeves look to be an inch short.
     
  11. Inch at least
     
  12. 58panheadfan

    58panheadfan Practically Family

    Messages:
    549
    Location:
    Switzerland
    +1
     
  13. dan_t

    dan_t Practically Family

    Messages:
    935
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    If you want a Highwayman, then this is pretty close to perfect.
    If you want a slim-fit casual civilian jacket, then either get a Sheene (cafe racer base) or a Seven (board racer base).
    This is how the highwayman is - it's just a boxy 50's design, even in the premier cut.

    Stuffing around with adding, or subtracting from only one element (eg the waist) may - or MAY NOT - result in a balanced end product. I say trust the people at Aero to know what they're doing after all these years getting the base patterns just so.
     
    Bennarion likes this.
  14. nick123

    nick123 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,112
    Location:
    California
    I think the jacket looks ace from the front-the sides are tricky to get right with these models.

    Side note, I can see you rocking a 30s Half Belt as well. :)
     
    AlexB likes this.
  15. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,430
    Location:
    London
    I think @ton312 is right, just taper the waist down and you should have a perfect fit.
    I would leave the sleeves as is, they are just how i like them, but some like them longer.
     
  16. AlexB

    AlexB One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    276
    Location:
    Berlin
    Thanks for all your input - I definitely will add sleeve and body length - it is never the case that stock stuff fits me.
     
    roadking04 and Seb Lucas like this.
  17. torfjord

    torfjord Practically Family

    Messages:
    925
    Tbh I wouldn’t want to change anything other than the sleeve length. Body length looks good to me, but I understand that our subjective preferences might differ.
    It’s not super tight in the waist, but this pattern is not meant to be either. I wouldn’t change the taper.
     
  18. AlexB

    AlexB One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    276
    Location:
    Berlin
    I am not that much concerned of the waist, for me mostly the back looks weird. There is quite some bunching and lot's of leather...
     
  19. dan_t

    dan_t Practically Family

    Messages:
    935
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    In all honesty @blaupulp , spend some time searching Thurston Bro's thread here & look for "Aero Seven" (search exactly as I've just typed it, including the " ").
    There are tons of examples. I think you'll achieve the look you want, but with the pattern that will be very complementary & aligned to what you're describing.
    Pretty much every main feature can be customised (yoke design, pocket set-up etc).
    Here are a couple of examples;
    https://www.thefedoralounge.com/posts/2217955/
    https://www.thefedoralounge.com/posts/2107597/
    https://www.thefedoralounge.com/posts/2352500/
     
  20. Fortehus

    Fortehus Familiar Face

    Messages:
    88
    I think highwayman/premier is very challenging to fit in. Your front fit looks okay with little tapering but the back may still have excess.

    Sample from my premier hwm (sorry for the messy home and dressing [emoji28])

    I am not slim, the front fit looks okay ( a bit tight) but the back have excess leather

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    samo likes this.

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