An update to this question—with a secondary question! Took it into a highly reviewed tailor and leather specialist for repair. He was extremely reassuring that it could be simply done without compromising the aesthetics by opening up the lapel, gluing in a small piece of leather and restitching.
This is the result:
View attachment 425244
(and the before shot)
View attachment 425243
To my obsessive eye, there’s multiple layers of stitching, a vaguely puckered lapel which no longer flexes in quite the same way, and what appears to be some dye in a different shade of black. Is this a horrible job or is it the best that can be expected given the nature and location of the tear? Like many of us I’m someone who can obsess over almost unnoticeable details so maybe this is one of those times?
It’s a James Grose Manilla, so maybe I should have tried to take it to the factory, but they don’t seem to have any public facing presence in the UK…
Jesus Christ how are these people in business. . . I'm sorry but this is a disaster. If it was slightly less bad, I'd keep my mouth shut but this is possibly the worst "repair" I've ever seen.
It was a relatively easy fix, they should've only went through the existing holes, even if they felt the need to stick a piece of leather in-between though I don't see why as just reinforcing the seams would've kept the ripped part in place. Touch of glue would keep it secured in place. I've done a few of these repairs, it really isn't such a big deal.
Take the jacket to LL. That's your only option at this point and please leave that leather "specialist" a negative review and make sure to include these photos so that people know what to expect, should they think about taking their jackets in for repairs. I know I would be very grateful to be forewarned of such scam.