Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[floater]

What is the appeal of a heavy (4.5oz+) jacket? I’ve never owned one, but it seems like it would be quite uncomfortable and looks almost a bit lumpy to me. I’d appreciate other perspectives since they seem favored on TFL.

I would say it varies per individual, but tartuwolf laid out most of the obvious reasons.

Personally I dislike what I like to call flimsy leathers, aka lightweight or less than 1mm thickness, mostly because I like a tight fit but I’m also pretty rough on my clothes and I prefer items that look better with wear vs ones I have to baby and be careful with to keep them looking nice.

Most of mine are mid-weight or in the 1mm-1.5mm thickness range and I usually immediately break-in the stiff ones to avoid the cardboard straight-jacket feeling, but I do have one heavyweight jacket around 2mm thickness and in the 8-10 lbs ballpark that I purposely bought in a leather that isn’t stiff and needed relatively no break-in to particularly avoid the issues you mention (uncomfortable and lumpy).

It is my first heavyweight and I can only say good things about it, it’s a tight fit but not restrictive, the leather feels and smells amazing and there really is something about wearing a heavy top layer that feels very comfortable and secure both on and off the bike.

 

[photo2u]

I would say it varies per individual, but tartuwolf laid out most of the obvious reasons.

Personally I dislike what I like to call flimsy leathers, aka lightweight or less than 1mm thickness, mostly because I like a tight fit but I’m also pretty rough on my clothes and I prefer items that look better with wear vs ones I have to baby and be careful with to keep them looking nice.

Most of mine are mid-weight or in the 1mm-1.5mm thickness range and I usually immediately break-in the stiff ones to avoid the cardboard straight-jacket feeling, but I do have one heavyweight jacket around 2mm thickness and 10 lbs that I purposely bought in a leather that isn’t stiff and needed relatively no break-in to particularly avoid the issues you mention (uncomfortable and lumpy).

It is my first heavyweight and I can only say good things about it, it’s a tight fit but not restrictive, the leather feels and smells amazing and there really is something about wearing a heavy top layer that feels very comfortable and secure both on and off the bike.

View attachment 726573

Love the jacket. It is a classic. The formed wall behind is nice. Is the building new or retro?

 

[floater]

Love the jacket. It is a classic. The formed wall behind is nice. Is the building new or retro?

Thanks!

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

Thanks!

I bought it new early ‘12 so I guess it’s still relatively new, that wall is 3 stories high and all perimeter walls are poured concrete, inner walls are plastered concrete block with poured columns every 2’ though and a couple spots where they had to use aluminum frame and drywall for pocket doors.

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Haha I still remember the story behind that jacket you have downstairs. Might fit your good boy better

 

[aorange]

Thanks for the answers and diverse perspectives, everyone.

Another question, is there a name for the puckering/bunching at the zipper/seam areas that happens with wear? Why does it occur more on some jackets and less on others?

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

Thanks for the answers and diverse perspectives, everyone.

Another question, is there a name for the puckering/bunching at the zipper/seam areas that happens with wear? Why does it occur more on some jackets and less on others?

Hmmm… that jacket looks real familiar

But from what I've seen, it’s just called puckering.
In this case, mostly to do with the underlying zipper tape (also rigid) and the horsehide molding around the folds and bends of the tape as I move around in it.
You also see it closer to the waist. This is because the jacket is a bit on the longer side and when I sit down, it folds a lot around that area.

 

[aorange]

Hmmm… that jacket looks real familiar

But from what I've seen, it’s just called puckering.
In this case, mostly to do with the underlying zipper tape (also rigid) and the horsehide molding around the folds and bends of the tape as I move around in it.
You also see it closer to the waist. This is because the jacket is a bit on the longer side and when I sit down, it folds a lot around that area.

Haha, I just was searching threads for an example picture and yours was the first example I could spot. Anecdotally I feel like I don't see it as much on heavier looking jackets, but wasn't sure if that's actually the case.

 

[photo2u]

Thanks for the answers and diverse perspectives, everyone.

Another question, is there a name for the puckering/bunching at the zipper/seam areas that happens with wear? Why does it occur more on some jackets and less on others? View attachment 726635

This is more prevalent with the #10 crown style zippers. #5 does not experience this "puckering". Some people love the crown #10. Nice zippers but there are other choices. While in the topic, I was cleaning my garage to make space for some of my tools when I noticed my old military gear I used in the past. Twenty five years ago, I spent some time in Russia training. Some of my flight gear was stored in the garage. By close evaluation, I came to the conclusion the zippers were either a Russian copy of the riri military zipper or made by riri. This zips are great in term of finish and mechanics. Personally, I am a big fan of the wide teeth Talon produced for a very short time in the late 40s. and the big #10 conmars. Most of the #10 crowns available are strong and nice reproductions of the originals. If you can find any originals talon,crown,riri or conmar, buy them because their in very short supply.

 

[photo2u]

Thanks!

I bought it new early ‘12 so I guess it’s still relatively new, that wall is 3 stories high and all perimeter walls are poured concrete, inner walls are plastered concrete block with poured columns every 2’ though and a couple spots where they had to use aluminum frame and drywall for pocket doors.

View attachment 726609

Love that design. I have seen them in early 60's modern minimalist homes. Very futuristic. I always wanted a house with those ties holes on them. Personally, it will be hard for this style to go out of favor with some builders. I have seen other vertical forms developed. My best friend is a very talented architect who designs modern style homes. He has created several form designs are are so cool but so very expensive to reproduce.

 

[floater]

Haha I still remember the story behind that jacket you have downstairs. Might fit your good boy better

Haha yeah that’s an interesting story for sure, sadly it doesn’t fit either of my dogs.

I prefer it there too, visible every day to keep me grounded next time I’m feeling bold and experimental.

Love that design. I have seen them in early 60's modern minimalist homes. Very futuristic. I always wanted a house with those ties holes on them. Personally, it will be hard for this style to go out of favor with some builders. I have seen other vertical forms developed. My best friend is a very talented architect who designs modern style homes. He has created several form designs are are so cool but so very expensive to reproduce.

I love cold war era brutalist architecture as well as minimalist design.

Cheers!

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

This is more prevalent with the #10 crown style zippers. #5 does not experience this "puckering". Some people love the crown #10. Nice zippers but there are other choices. While in the topic, I was cleaning my garage to make space for some of my tools when I noticed my old military gear I used in the past. Twenty five years ago, I spent some time in Russia training. Some of my flight gear was stored in the garage. By close evaluation, I came to the conclusion the zippers were either a Russian copy of the riri military zipper or made by riri. This zips are great in term of finish and mechanics. Personally, I am a big fan of the wide teeth Talon produced for a very short time in the late 40s. and the big #10 conmars. Most of the #10 crowns available are strong and nice reproductions of the originals. If you can find any originals talon,crown,riri or conmar, buy them because their in very short supply.

Hey friend, admittedly I do have a lot of my jackets outfitted with Crown #10s, but I don't think that's the primary reason. And it's not exactly the zipper tape as I brought up earlier.

Now that I took a closer look, I think it's more to do with the welting and how much of the leather is folded back. As you move around in the jacket, the impression of that folded portion will reveal itself. And your particularly see it in the lower
Jackets below are all 4oz HH. Except for the brown one, the welting along the main zipper is fairly tight. These tight welts won't show much and there isn't too much folded material underneath either. The welting on the brown one is thicker and there's a few marks around the lower torso where that area is bending as I sit down. In the case of the Appalachian above, there is a lot of folded material which means it's more flexible and particularly when I sit down, that portion gets bent a lot and leaves many visible marks.

Below you can see a lot of puckering showing up on these Scoville #5s. Especially along the length of the right one which is 2.5oz HH. Even with the welting, that portion can bend relatively easily.

Here's a RMC J24 I came across with visible welting too. There's many more examples around where a Crown #10 is not involved.

 

[photo2u]

Friend, you have some of the best jackets that LW reproduces. Regarding the zipper sizes, I was refering to the #5 crown and the #10 crowns. In some originals and reproductions in both nylon and leather, I have experience the same. The nylon (B-15c green and blue types) originals and repro crowns the folding is worst.

 

[jchance]

Thanks for the answers and diverse perspectives, everyone.

Another question, is there a name for the puckering/bunching at the zipper/seam areas that happens with wear? Why does it occur more on some jackets and less on others? View attachment 726635

The puckering is due to how tightly the stitching is done on a stretched out piece of leather. It’s less present if the leather is relaxed. It’s not unlike the chain stitching on jeans that causes the puckering at the hem. Himel leather jackets are known for this.

 

[Biff42]

Anyone heard of or tried this shop?
https://brakehouseshop.com/
Seems like a re-seller of Chinese stuff (for example Simons jackets).
But free shipping and possibility to return might be attractive to some.
Very nice website as well, loads of photos and info.

Just placed an order for a J-31. I'll let you know how it goes and I'll do a small review on the jacket.

 

[Pandemic]

Just placed an order for a J-31. I'll let you know how it goes and I'll do a small review on the jacket.

Cool! I’ve been eying that La Brea for a while now. Looking forward to your review!

 

[floater]

Just placed an order for a J-31. I'll let you know how it goes and I'll do a small review on the jacket.

There’s a short review on that J31 I saw on Reddit with pics of actual jacket.

 

[Biff42]

Here’s a short review on that J31 I saw on Reddit with pics of actual jacket.
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Thanks!

Being from the US I've mostly believed Chinese goods were junk. That changed once I tried Grant Stone boots. I knew then they could make good stuff.

 

[LuddGang]

Can’t find a good general Aero thread for this. Can anybody tell me a bit about the discontinued Dustbowl jacket please - what was the fit like? Based on the name I assume slim 30s style. What’s the closest comparison in the current line up?

EDIT: I have found a couple of useful threads now…. Search was playing up. Would still be interested to hear more though!

 

[TartuWolf]

Can’t find a good general Aero thread for this. Can anybody tell me a bit about the discontinued Dustbowl jacket please - what was the fit like? Based on the name I assume slim 30s style. What’s the closest comparison in the current line up?

EDIT: I have found a couple of useful threads now…. Search was playing up. Would still be interested to hear more though!

Ahh my first Aero jacket..
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...l-fqhh-brown-fit-impressions-thoughts.109523/
I'd say it's more of a 50's more relaxed half-belt pattern.

 

[Mandarin]

Can’t find a good general Aero thread for this. Can anybody tell me a bit about the discontinued Dustbowl jacket please - what was the fit like? Based on the name I assume slim 30s style. What’s the closest comparison in the current line up?

EDIT: I have found a couple of useful threads now…. Search was playing up. Would still be interested to hear more though!

I agree it's a relaxed pattern. I like my jackets slim and this one isn't, although I like the way it fits. Mine is quite short , the bottom hem just covers the belt. It's also one of the most comfortable of my Aero jackets (the other being a type 3). Every time I wear it, I know I'll keep it.